Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

Some of you are asking about a change in directions so I'm just posting here for reference.

• On my kit, it came with Loctite 598 to seal the upper/lower manifolds.
• It also came with Lubriplate No. 630-AA for pulleys.
• Oil resistant silicone was recommended in step 92 when installing the pulley bolt.

 

why would they ask you to put lubriplate on the pulleys. On mine it was for the hoses and orings

 

My instructions call for the lubriplate to be used on the oem radiator to water pump hose and on the o-rings located on the CAC. Oil resistant silicone (specifically does not say RTV) is called for on the crank pulley bolt - do a search and tell me what you find that comes up "oil resistant silicone" that does not include the word "RTV." WTF !? I don't find it. Or is all silicone "oil resistant" ?? Of all the several hundred steps this is the only point of question. Why would you use RTV on the crank pulley bolt other than up at the flange on the bolt - I'd think the threads and tight tolerance would bind up in a heart beat - (Flange use was suggested by OpelGT - and seems like a sensible approach).

 

They are talking about ultra-black for oil resistant silicone. I don’t know what they are on about saying non rtv silicone. There’s literally no other type of silicon sealant. Maybe they mean silicone grease like superlube idk.
It’s just not a clear step for sure. I used none on mine and I’ve had no leaks. The stock one didn’t have any on it. I’ve never used it on a crank bolt on any car I’ve ever built a motor for.

Its most likely for possible seeping through the keyway on the crankshaft because of a bad timing cover seal. Never seen that happen before (except on fords) but it is possible. I’m not worried. If it leaks it’s not hard to take off and fix.

There is no oil in the crankshaft so putting it on the threads would do nothing but mess up the torque specs and cause it squeeze out and seal the flange anyway.

 

My Magnuson SC was installed and I picked it up today. I paid to have it done. I could readily feel the power increases on the drive home. Really quiet too.

It took the shop five days (including weekend) to get the tune straight which they advised me was related to Magnuson's process and normal as far as that goes. It was inconsequential to me as I have more than one vehicle and didn’t need it but could be an issue if you were to attempt to install it yourself on your daily driver on a weekend necessarily.

 

Congrats! Enjoy!
It really seems to wake up after about a tank of gas. It will keep getting better for awhile

By the way for others who are worried about the wait. You can easily request the tune yourself prior to taking it to the shop. You just need to get the small instruction booklet out of the box along with the OVTune cable case. You simply send them your vin, serial number and a few other things. Then you plug the cable in to the truck and copy and paste a code to another email. 15min job then you can email the files to your installer and save a couple days!

 

That’s what they did on my FJ (I’m having two done) after running into this issue and apparently the process on that one is going to be simpler but you are right you can save time doing what you said in advance.

One other thing to mention, I’m a novice relative to what’s under the hood but it’s so impressive to me how seamlessly this system integrates with the engine. Other than the Magnuson logo if you didn’t know better it looks like it came with the truck stock. The engineers that designed it clearly put a lot of thought into it.

 

I asked magnuson a few questions today after putting a nice 3,000 miles on mine. Here’s the responses. I thought I’d share.
Great customer service with these guys. Looks like they are improving the tune some too which is exciting. I figure they are working on CARB cert right now first. I’ll be checking back in 3 months to see about tune version 8.

Q1: I have tune 04A70_V6_PCO_MAG_SC_PR1. I’ve been pretty happy with the tune except there is a pronounced flat spot or dip in power at around 4000rpm that clears out by 5000. I was wondering if any newer versions of the tune address that issue.

A1: We are on V7. The flat spot is on our list of things to improve on. We do have a newer release version V7 (See attachment). It changes a few things but nothing to drastic.

Q2: Can I get a list of part numbers for the pulleys and drive belt.

A2: 90mm supercharger drive pulley PN 57-03-06-090-BL QTY 1
Supercharger belt PN 79-06-08-091(

$27 gates K060891 micro-v serpentine drive belt

gates K060891) QTY 1
Idler PN 56-50-47-001 QTY 1
Idler PN 56-50-53-004 QTY 3
Tensioner assembly PN 56-50-53-017 QTY1

Q3: Do you personally recommend a cooler plug with this kit? The instructions state stock plugs are ok, I’m curious if cooler plugs may be better though.
A3: We recommend stock spark plug and gap. (I would stay with those)

Q4: I will likely keep this supercharger for many years. Do you have a maintenance and recommended rebuild schedule for the tvs1900?

A4: Here is our generic response for supercharger maintenance.
Your supercharger is, by design, maintenance-free. The supercharger oil is a special synthetic oil engineered to last the life of the supercharger. It is not necessary to drain and re-fill. Other general maintenance for coolant fluid and drive belts should be in line with your vehicle OEM's recommend maintenance schedule.

Q5: How long should I wait to check back about tune version 8 being out?
A5: I would guess about 3 months.

 

Mat at @OVTune said a post a while back that he knew what was causing this and would contact Magnuson. I wonder if he ever did? Thanks for the updates. I'm still waiting on warm weather to do my install. Hopefully Magnuson will have a better Tune out by then and maybe the CARB too.

 

@androofoo
Do you have a photo of the part numbers of your plastic dayco pulleys. The part numbers magnuson have are in house numbers. It would be useful to have the actual dayco part no. I threw away my old boxes unfortunately

 

I am in constant contact with magnuson and other companies using our software to make improvements

 

I still have mine (NIB) so if he does not have them I will post.

 

Once this thing has a great tune for the Auto - i'll have to order one. Thanks to all the early adopters for getting this thing dialed in (eventually).

 

So yesterday I sent a clarification request to Magnuson Support about installation process step 92 (Installation of the Crank Pulley Bolt). I questioned their recommendation for the use of "oil-resistant silicone" and the fact that unless you include the word "RTV" there is no such thing. Here is their response: "We mean RTV, we put it around the flange of the bolt/washer. I will get the instructions updated."

I also received Tune Version 7 - so it looks like Version 8 will have the 4-5K rpm flat spot fixed along with some other improvements = all as noted by others in prior posts.

 

Hopefully they get rid of the ridiculous surge in throttle right after the 1-2 shift around 2500 RPM while keep steady pressure/position on the throttle pedal

 

I haven’t noticed that one.

 

Cuz you have a manual

for me the truck will accelerate in 1st, shift to 2nd, accelerate like normal for 1-2 seconds in 2nd, and then there is a big jump in acceleration rate while keeping my foot steady on the gas.

 

Yes sir! Thankful for for all the megapixels on my camera.

89009 - Belt drive
89007 - Idler/tensioner pulley

 

I loaded up tune V7 today. Seems like it’s a drivability tune. Less jerky and more smooth. Pretty lame. I kinda liked the rough edges.
It’s too soon to tell any performance changes. The ECU still needs a few days to relearn. I doubt I’ll be able to tell a difference though.

I cleared all the LV this time. The instructions don’t say to do that, but the OVTune threads suggest it.

I have a question though. I’m guessing we all have error code P0660-14-6C now since we removed our acoustic valve. Does this cause an issue with vehicle inspections in states that have them? Oklahoma doesn’t give a crap thankfully. Just curious.

 

I used the V7 tune for about 1K miles and ended up going back to the V5 tune the other day. I didn’t notice any performance improvements with V7. I don’t know if it’s in my head, but it felt like it had more rev hang than the V5. The V5 also felt a little more responsive as well.

I don’t remember seeing any error codes the last time I checked. I’ll check today and report back. However, on Oahu the safety check inspector doesn’t scan for codes so as long as the CEL isn’t lit up on the dash it’s all good. Some inspectors don’t even care if the CEL is lit up.