Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

no, as I understand it, the CARB is tied to the sending unit, not the tank.

 

Try again?

https://ww3.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/fueltanks/fueltanks.htm

 

The tank is already CARB certified.

 

Yep. Also I don't think CARB gives much of a shit. The list of approved tanks that's from the carb site I linked above is from 1990. lol

 

Do it, go back to brand new OEM mounts all the way around. It was SOOOOOOO nice it bordered on ridiculous how much better it was. And the new OEM core support bushings are bigger with more support than I thought they would be from memory, but granted they are way softer than even the cab mount bushings are. I am completely happy I switched back. New OEM mounts are not cheap though, which is why everyone puts on the cheapo poly kit from Energy I guess. I will be replacing my core support bushings as often as needed, when I see one look funky. Those are cheap and simple to replace.

BTW, I was able to stuff 2 washers 0.120" each above each cab mount and core support, that were used in the poly bushing kit. So with the stock bolts/hardware I got about 1/4" of body lift in addition to the stock height, which the new bushings were about 1/4" collapsed compared to new. So nearly 1/2" taller than where I was with my worn out OEM body mounts before trying the stupid crappy poly.

I would be very surprised if anyone that goes back to OEM regrets it. And I think that the oem core support bushings are soft for a reason, there is a cantilever effect of movement of the cab when you look out at the front where the core support is. It has to be able to float more. I am positive that the poly caused more damage, and didn't help anything on my truck. And the cab mount bushings were noisy beyond compare, no matter what torque I tried.

OEM FTW IMO, in this case at least...

 

yeah but...you’re going to have the same problem again with the oe rad core wall bushings collapsing on the drivers side due to the weight of the battery and then your cracking prob is right back in the picture

 

and here's me ready to change to poly cab mount bushings...

I have the cracking in the cab above the rear doors which I had heard the solution was the firmer cab mounts

 

Well, I believe that keeping a close eye on those bushings and replacing the $10 part before it is collapsed (or when it shows signs of distortion) is the best option. Better than going with a poly puck bushing, IMO. The core support will only break as a result of excessive flex of the metal - which could be from complete lack of support with lots of weight on it, or could be from vibration induced from too hard of bushings connected to frame, etc.

I will be moving the battery to the back of the truck, but still going to put some hardware in that location. On a side note, my passenger side is cracked worse than the drivers side, even though I have two group 34 batteries on the drivers side... I think that speaks to flex and vibration, and alignment of the core support with respect to frame, along with properly sized (not collapsed/worn) stock cab mount bushings, which if worn will put undue movement in the core support bushing area.

 

I haven't personally seen cracking in that area so can't speak to it much. I can only say I hated the poly bushings, the creaking was completely insane. I had 160K on my stock cab bushings, and didn't think they really looked worn out. I could tell the slider clearance to the pinch weld was reduced though, and mainly put in the poly so I could do a slight body lift with the larger puck on top. I was miserable with it, no matter the orientation, or bolt torque. My kids were even bitching with the constant creaking even on city streets and highway.

I can also tell you that there is a difference between the front cab bushings and rear. Different part numbers, I think corresponding to the durometer of the rubber. IIRC, the fronts are actually firmer, making them more of a fulcrum point, and the rears can deflect easier, and the core support bushings obviously need to deflect even more.

You totally could order 4 firm front bushings and install those in the back too. But I doubt anyone has ever done that and had real world experience with it.

Only when I had new OEM bushings in hand, comparing to the stock ones I removed, did I realize how compressed and used my old ones were. Putting new OEM back in was borderline on miraculous... And for the trade offs, I would replace the core support bushings 2x per year before I thought again about putting poly back in. But everyone's experience is different, YMMV.

 

Sounds like you guys all need these to fix your problems once and for all

 

.

 

I think I speak for everyone on this thread ...

 

we all know about it, and most of us have the common core support, radiator support, hood latch catch tearing off, cracking/tearing at the front of the bedsides and cracking/tearing above the rear doors in one way or the other. Which is all too indicative of a very flexy frame. I have score marks on the back of the cab from the front of the bed touching while on the trails, this is how much flex is going on. I really doubt there would be a difference between OEM and Poly bushings.

But how many of you have cracks/separation in the cab at the rear most facing body mounts? A shoutout to @tetten for bringing this to attention. These frames really flex a lot.

This is my passenger side rear most body mount, driver side is just the same..

 

ooof, definitely crawling under the truck and peeking there later.

edit: No cracks, thank goodness.

 

One of those +4 is mine I'm guessing

 

Sounds like you need a bumper to bumper cage

 

You ordered a +4 kit?

 

I fuckin' hope not.

But I guess I'll add checking that to the to-do list.

 

Just to be a topper. Helped a friend repair his left rear body mount completely separating from the cab just last weekend.

this is the bottom of the cab mount completely separated from the cab.


The top of the cab mount completely separated from the cab.