Austin's Supercharged Mid Travel Build

It's certainly an expensive purchase but completely worth the cost IMO. I bought my ADS suspension while in college, but I'm also not very responsible with money lol. I originally cheaped out a bit and went with some Icon IFP coilovers for my first set of coilovers. That was a mistake and the Icon performance was extremely disappointing. Buy once cry once I guess...

I got my coilovers through headstrong offroad, who gave me hundreds off of msrp and were really great to work with. I highly recommend them. I would also look into MCM fab. I know they can give pretty good discounts as well. MCM also has a really nice reservoir mounting bracket for the coilovers that you can't get elsewhere.

 

I got all mine through Matt at MCM. He helps R&D for ADS for toyotas.

 

Hey blackdawg,
You have a lot of spacer experience right?

You think going with a 3.5" backspace and 1 or 1.25" spacer is too much?
I'm trying to clear my shock in the rear and running 285 70 16

 

I had 3.75" BS wheels and had 1.5'' spacers for a while. It was fine. You're gonna throw rooster tails every time it rains(blinds the whole side of your truck) and any mud and you'll be covered in it for sure.

Does put more wear and tear on the hubs over time. But I never had to replace a bearing. That said my axle shaft got bent but that was probably from excessive driving not the spacers.

 

Damn, that bad.
Thanks brother. Looks like I can open up a spacer shop after I'll be done testing all the combos haha. I'll buy .75" spacers and add them to my 3.5" wheels once I get em.

 

Yeah its that bad

DeTour-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Granted this is with a LT kit up front so no spacers there, but the rears are setup how i described.

This is just spacers and 35x12.5r15s with 2.25'' total BS

Frank.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Frank-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

 

Lmao thats terrible haha. If I go with 3.5" BS and .75" spacer I'll have 2.75 which is a litttttttle more than you. You also dont have flares haha.
You have LT in front so I cant really ask about fittment. Well see when I get it.
Also, since you were running 12.5 wide, the rubber would stick out the fender more than my 285/70/15 (11.2")

 

The bottom two photos is before the Long Travel. Thats just the wheels and spacers on stock geometery suspension. No flares(not that the 95-97 "flares" did anything anyways) but those are 4.5'' flared front fenders haha

It'll be a good amount of tire poke. 3.5'' by itself is a decent amount.

 

I have 285/75's on 3.5 BS SCS F5's with no spacers and I got shit sprayed all over the side like @Blackdawg was saying anytime you hit anything wet or muddy.
I added some 01-04 fender flares and that helped a ton.

 

Yup! What monte said. More than half my tire sticks out. My rim is also 10 inches wide. I had a mirror break from flinging rocks, mud. Eh. I like it. I love the sound of mud clumps landing on top of the cab.

 

One of the reasons I sold my F5's and went with the skinny tires.

 

Sorry to pollute OPs build thread.
It’s a bummer I might be slingin’ mud but I need to clear the shock relocation. I need at least an extra half inch. Was debating 4” BS or 3.5 BS with different spacers. FN has availability on 3.5 BS and they r giving me great deal. SCS just dropped some but I’m sold on FN.
Came up with this chart. I own both 1 and 1.25 spacer. Its between a 4" BS or 3.5 but cus availability, prob 3.5 with .75 spacers I gotta get.

 

hey austin, i just started looking at this thread,,, you like overkill or what dood???

did you get the dc-dc sorted? i notice in the one pic you dont have the signal wire installed, but its obviously not finished in that pic.

also, i'd get the fridge off the inverter and on 12v

 

when you mention seeing flickering are you talking about in person or in video? i havent noticed flickering in person (i have aging eyes), but everything seems to flicker in vid, even my BD lights

 

Both. It happens in video because most people are using cell phones with a rolling shutter style camera, which exaggerates the flicker.
My eyes see it in person. Mostly when I am driving and behind a newer vehicle with LED tail lights at night and I see them flickering because when they aren't actively braking, the only way to "dim" the LED is the pulse them on and off. I am one of the small percentage that can actually see this in real life and it really sucks.

 

Overkill is always better than being under-gunned

I haven't looked into the dc-dc issue yet. I got the signal wire in and it's getting power, it just doesn't seem to be charging the battery. I upgraded my alternator to a cs144 which puts out 140 amps, which seems like it would be enough power to charge the battery so I don't think that's the issue. My guess is I didn't set the dc-dc setting correctly so I'll need to go back over those next time I have the system installed in my truck.

I suppose switching the fridge over to 12v would be more efficient, I'll have to do that.

 

140 amps is plenty, that model dc-dc you have will only allow 40amp to the aux batt so your golden there.

prolly the dip switches since the dc-dc senses the batt.

 

Got my warrantied Solo Motorsports arms on the truck and aligned today. Not sure if it was just the way the alignment tech did this alignment but I got 2 more degrees of caster out of these arms than my previous pair, giving me a total of 5.5 degrees. I'm not complaining though, the added caster seemed to make a big handling improvement.

 

Wow what did you have before? I had 5ish from the get go