Dobinsons 2nd Gen Tacoma Suspension Options

Great, thanks for the clarification

 

I'm looking into a dobinson front set up but all the choices are comfusing

@Crikeymike
I want the resivor shocks
I have a heavy ass front end and what about 2.5 to 3 inches of lift
Wich shocks and coils would be best for me?

Right now I have BP 51s and they make my nose slam down when I got over bumps on the trail and didn't get muchift out of them.

 

Kind Dude,

Not to speak for CrikeyMike, but if it were me again, I would have gone with the Dobinsons C59-354 Front Lifted Coil Springs with that kind of weight. I went with the 352's, and ended up installing the 1/4" spacer to get that extra 1/2" lift, because my "threads" were maxed out (per recommended max). 354's, and I might not have needed the extra 1/4" spacer, but it was easier to install than disassembling the coil overs. $.02 GL! HNY!

 

Hi mate,

You'd use the MRA59-A220's with the C59-354 coils. Then you can set them to 2.5" or 3", depending what you'd like.

Mike

 

Thanks Mike

Is there a yways you guys would ship Canada? Since you shipped me a snorkal during the group buy?

 

Yes. You just need to email me like you did with the snorkel and I can quote it and do it manually that way

 

What's your email again can't seem to find in through my emails thanks!

 

There's a link in my signature for it

 

So, I received my Dobinsons suspension parts (Full MRA kit with leaves and coils and UCAs) and was disappointed to find the leaf spring finish was not just scraped up a little bit as expected. Instead, the paint is flaking, revealing rusted leaves. There is also rust between the leaves. Dobinsons is offering a refund/return only. Ordered these in early/mid November and am finally getting them now...this is pretty frustrating. I can disassemble the springs, strip the paint, de-rust them and re-paint and reassemble them, or ship them back and go shopping for leaf springs. Deavers are another $300 but seem to provide a better ride and the work I'd have to put into my rusty Dobinsons might be worth the extra cost of the Deavers. OME heavy is only for 660lbs and I have an 800lb camper (dry).

Disclaimer: I didn't order through exit offroad and I'm not sure if it would have been handled differently (or if there is a real difference between Exit Offroad and Dobinsons Direct), but the parts were shipped directly from Dobinsons in Florida to me and the refund/return offer is from Dobinsons as well and not the distributor.

When the distributor reached out to Dobinsons, Dobinsons said they had already offered me a refund which is not true since I never reached out to them. This indicates that at least one other customer received similarly poor quality and was not offered a solution, just a refund.

 

I don't know about Dobinsons direct. I can say that @Crikeymike is a good guy. He has always done good on everything that I have ordered from him. I have Dobinsons suspension on both our 4runner and Tacoma. Been very happy with it and Mike.

 

Thanks, I mean no disrespect to Mike and I don’t know if he’s independent of Dobinsons or not. I only post here on “his” thread because it’s the Dobinsons thread.

 

I get it. I might have done the same thing.

 

Install questions: I read after assembling the coilover in the little bag with the adjuster cap that the shock should not be turned upside down during assembly. Handy place for that instruction as opposed to in the install instructions, btw. The other thing missing was that the reservoir hose should exit the shock body toward the engine bay and not toward the tire.

1. So, I had to pull my coilovers out, compress the spring and rotate the shock body relative to the top mount. In doing so, I didn't realize I hadn't put the adjuster screw back in and I turned it upside down and a rod came out. It didn't come all the way out before I realized it. However, I flipped it back rightside up and removed the rod completely to wipe it down and make sure I wasn't letting any dirt in the shock shaft. Is this a concern?

2. I noticed when I assembled the second coilover that the protruding thread above the but was significantly more on the passenger side than the driver side (before I did #1 above). The top bushing is also seemingly much more compressed on the passenger side. My understanding was that the nut should be tightened down all the way to the end of the threads and I thought I achieved that on both sides. So, the question is, did I overtighten the passenger side, under tighten the driver's side or screw it up some completely other way?


Drivers side: (to me bushing compression looks good, the nut seemed to be tight against the end of the threads as I recall)

Passenger side: (the nut kept turning and seemed to overcompress the bushing by the time it stopped)


I also noticed that in the Toyota service manual the top nut has a torque value which seemed odd to me.

 

That rod is the part that actually adjusts the rebound. As long as it went back in and the top parts were put in the same order, it should be fine. You'd know pretty quick if that rod wasn't adjusting up and down properly, or if the rebound wasn't being changed by going all the way in and all the way out.

You could have swapped left and right strut assemblies to have the hose face inwards instead of outwards, without needing to compress and rotate the strut.

The banjo fitting faces inwards just to restrict the chance of it hitting a moving object, like a sway bar or wheel perhaps. Many have installed it facing the wheel, but also routed the hose properly and it has never been an issue. Be cautious that the hose doesn't rub against the adjuster rings, as they're kind of sharp.

Yes, the top nut bottoms out on the threads, so if one is longer than the other, it's not all the way tightened down. If it doesn't get done all the way, this can happen eventually (see attached). Or if a washer was missing from the underside, more threads would show up up top too.

 

great, thanks! It was just the rod and the grub screw with detent ball, they went back in in the order that they came out.

Haha, wish I'd thought of that...I was just so demoralized at that point realizing I had done something else wrong that I didn't even thing of that. That and it was the end of the day.

Copy that, I didn't reinstall the swaybar with banjos out, because I think it would've rubbed. And I noticed that the adjuster rings are very sharp indeed.

Ok looks like I get to try this again. What do you think about jacking from the lower control arm and tightening the top nut in place...good idea or bad idea?

 

Yes, If you can remove the rebound adjuster and inner piece again, and hold the rod from spinning (using an allen key), you "should" be able to get enough tension on it to tighten that down until it stops. The rubber bushings can add a lot of resistance, so the torque spec thing is very weird when you're getting resistance against it. That's why I made that detailed video about how far down the nut has to go since visually you can't tell how tight it really is unless you compare one side or another.

 

Thanks I'll give that a try, I did the driver side 1st and it looked correctly compressed. But then when I did the driver side it just kept going...it doesn't look over compressed on the driver side to you? I'm not sure I could have possibly missed any of the washers I remember tapping the washer into both top caps. If I missed the bottom washer i think the bushing wouldn't have even compressed. and obviously the top washer is visible.

PS: for any others reading this thread or following along...I wish I woulda paid the $90 extra for struts to be preassembled

 

The bushings will look different on the ground versus the truck in the air, so that's something to consider. The only way they could get over compressed is with an incorrect bushing/washer configuration really.

If the lower washer was missed under the under/inside bushing, then the strut would soon rip thru that bushing and poke out an extra inch or so.

 

Do the rear shocks limit down travel? I have the heavy springs and MRAs on a 2nd gen and with the axle at full droop the shock is nearly 2” short.



Is the shock internally protected from top outs?

 

@Crikeymike

You may consider the extended length rear shocks as seen here?