Its SNOWING...how to use 4x4 right (NEWBIE)

If you have to decend a particularly steep snowy section it can be benificial to gear right down and drive the truck down rather than staying in a higher gear and using the brakes .

 

Haha. I'm not worried. Ever since buying this truck, its been the complete opposite of my motorcycle riding. Unlike on the motorcycle where I'd always be in the fast lane, I like to lumber along in the truck in the slow/far right lane. I never really go faster than the speed limit, and in bad conditions, I don't mind going slow for conditions.

I mostly do this to save on gas but also because I like lumbering around in the truck. Weird, I know!

 

I heard you should use 4low when you go down a very steep descent to save on 4hi axle maybe?

Is that right? (word choice "axle" may definitely be wrong, I don't know the right part of the truck it would save on)

 

If I need to really control my speed I will use 4LO , but 99% of these situations come off of maintained roads . With the grades usually found in regular roads 4LO is not necessary , just drop it way down in 4HI .

 

Just my 2 cents. In snow, all your decisions and choices should be at the speed of light while your doing 1/10th of your normal speed. Turn but go slow and be careful. Speed ip bit do so like your driving on egg shells. Too many people think 4x4 is a license to go nuts. If your off road have a blast but on road chill. Find a parkinglot empty or a back road and practice a couple 4x maneuvers. Nothing beats experience. Then when you have an o crap moment you will be fine. And so far you have a ton of good advice from the taco guys. Take it to heart.

 

So i'm just making sure but in 4Hi, I can manually go throw gears in my Auto like on a downgrade while i'm in 4hi? E.g. throw it into 3rd so I can transmission break on steep hill.

 

No worries. Will be reading and rereading this post over and over.

 

Yes .

 

You should also be aware that dropping down gears can make the rear end step out though , so it is usually best to select a lower gear at the top of the slope , rather than trying to slow down with engine braking part way down .

 

Hi Dan,

While I have a 2010 now, the one before it was a 2005...

The owners manual and the card in your sun visor does have the correct info... but you need to read it a few times for some of it to sink in... and maybe hear us old timers say the same things too!

For instance, the manual and card will tell you to get in L4 (Low Range), you must put an automatic tranny into NEUTRAL... It is funny how many of us think PARK is the same as neutral!

Your original question about High Range 4WD use:

While you can turn the dial into or out of H4 while stopped... often a few feet of movement is needed before you hear the 'clunk' of the four wheel drive engaging. It is easier to shift into or out of H4 while driving.

Use H4 for 'double traction' (twice the traction of 2WD)... Traction is the ability of your drive tires to move your truck in contact with the ground.

If in H2 (2WD) and your back tire(s) spin and you don't move forward... you need more traction... This will happen off road, or on roads with snow, ice, rain. Put it in H4!

Leave it in H4 as long as traction is poor. The only time you may need to go back into 2WD is if you are parallel parking, as turning the steering wheel while still or moving very slowly is harder in 4WD (because the front and back drive shafts are locked together in 4WD, but need to rotate at different speeds when turning). On slippery roads or off road the tires can slip... but not on dry pavement. You don't need 4WD on dry pavement. Only All Wheel Drive (Full Time 4WD) vehicles are made for dry pavement four wheeling... as they have a THIRD differentail that allows the front and rear drive shafts to move at different speeds.

LOW RANGE: This is for low speed power off road... to climb steep grades or get through difficult terrain where you need maximum power and slow speed to avoid damage. Crawling up, down or over is an advantage with 4WD Low Range.

You must stop and put the automatic tranny into NEUTRAL (not PARK), and rotate the dial from H4 to L4... go back into Drive or one of the 4 lower gears and immediatly feel the tractor-like power of your truck! To get back into H4 or H2, stop and go back into NEUTRAL again, then rotate the selector dial.

The REAR LOCKER:

If 4WD is Double Traction, turning on the rear locking differential is like triple traction! Works only on L4, and only recommended to use when all else fails to get you up or through nasty terrain. Steering can be more difficult with the locker, so speed is recommended to not exceed 5 mph.

What is and why a locker?

The Tacoma (and most vehicles) has open differentials and this makes stearing easy. Power (torque) goes to both tires from each differential as long as both tires on that axle have equal traction. As soon as one tire has less traction... slippery ground for example... more torque will go to it instead of the traction tire. You become stuck and notice just one tire per axle spinning... If torque went to that other tire or at least to both equally, you could probably drive out.

The differential locker puts torque equally to both tires. So if one is on a slippery surface, the other will still have torque to move you ahead.

4WD has an advantage over 2WD in that you have double the odds of having a tire with enough traction to move you ahead. Add a locker, or limited slip, or traction control and you increase the odds that you will not get stuck!

Please ask anything that still isn't clear... I am sure we all hope you have a great time four wheeling in your Tacoma!
David K

 

You may not like it but read the instructions in your manual and follow them first...ignore any advice you get from people on the internets that conflict with those instruction.

Why? cause they laugh really hard when you say the guys told you on line that it wouldn't hurt as they hand over the $3000 denied warranty claim for a new xfer case 'cause you didn't follow those instructions.

Advice on navigating obstacles and driving in 4x4 in the snow is one thing...but follow the manufacturers instructions for engaging/disengaging 4x4.

 

Drive defensively, like you are on your motorcycle.
Read the mfgs manual and instructions as advised above.
The parking lot idea is spot on, watch for poles and curbs and be leery of snowbanks no matter how tempting it is,
there are hidden things that can ruin your day.

 

I hope the OP doesn't mind me thread-jacking, but in the same icy/slushy conditions, should I be turning off the VSC and turning on the auto-LSD? I have a sport, so ATRAC and locker aren't options.

Yes I've read the tutorial. Yes I've read wikipedia. Yes, I've read the manual. No, I still don't get it.

 

You may not like it but read the instructions in your manual and follow them first...ignore any advice you get from people on the internets that conflict with those instruction.

Why? cause they laugh really hard when you say the guys told you on line that it wouldn't hurt as they hand over the $3000 denied warranty claim for a new xfer case 'cause you didn't follow those instructions.

Advice on navigating obstacles and driving in 4x4 in the snow is one thing...but the absolute best cost-avoidance policy is to carefully follow the manufacturers instructions for engaging/disengaging 4x4.

 

My only 2 cents is if you think the roads are icy put it in 4HI.

 

This is no good if you don't know how to operate the vehicle properly to the given conditions.

If you're still driving like you are invinsible, then 4 wheel drive is only 4 wheels driving you straight into a ditch.

 

LOL..best advice yet.

 

That's because you're getting older-pretty soon you'll be listening to talk radio too

I hope it wasn't already said this way but-far as using 4WD in snow, you are already a pro snow driver via 2-wheel drive vehicles-now you can practice your usual skills WITH the added traction AND weight of 4WD gear.

 

If you do get onto black ice suddenly, don't panic and lift off the gas immediately. Just lifting will cause the rear to swap out front,,all the weight transfers to the front and none left on the rear. kinda like doing a stoppie on a street bike. It's better to ease off very slowly,,or throttle on to keep a modicum of steering. Most people panic and lift off and then they are doing 360's.

Even with 4WD engaged, get a run at the next snowy hill on the downslope before the upslope, if you wait to run at the bottom, you will/could spin to the top. the key factor is momentum for that,as you already know.

Increase your following distance 5-10 fold. The biggest mistake made by everyone is running nose to tail, like they think they can when it is dry. Old granny in her pink cadillac is already into the sheer panic thing just being at the wheel on the slick, leave yourself a way out by extra seconds.

Add about 150-200lbs (along with your camper shell). this will help hold you in the corners as the truck leans and puts that extra pressure/weight on that outside loaded tire. You get better traction with weight in the back versus nothing. Tie down those weights, you dont want them becoming missles if something happens.

A good tip that was put up is to take it wheeling offroad in the snow with another 4x4 buddy,, you will find out very quickly what you can and cannot get away with. A good time to mess with the 4wd controls also, to see what they do and respond the best to. It's also one of the the best tests, to see what kind of traction your tires have, and it's also fun. Take some survival stuff with,, a night in the woods is not very comfortable in these small trucks.

Use good judgement,,AND DON'T PANIC. You'll get that cold adrenalin shot when you start sliding in heavy traffic. Use that adrenalin to let your mind race forward into figuring out what you must do immediately. Sometimes it is adding throttle versus lifting,,or slowly easing off the throttle. Some times it is adding throttle with a little left foot braking together. Easing it out of 4WD when hitting black ice (one of my best tips).

Good luck!

 

After seeing the 900+ accidents that occurred here in atlanta on wednesday night when everything from the city of Atlanta to North GA turned into an ice rink and it took me 2 hours and 45 minutes to get home from a normal 35 minute commute I have a few tips.

FYI I wasn't one of those 900 people b/c my driving was focused on not being hit by one of those 900 people.

-Don't use your brakes if you don't have to...especially on ice. The only thing they will do is lock up.
-Use low gears if you can.
-If you think you are driving slow...drive a little slower..especially anywhere other than a flat straightaway. Let the idiots pass you and wave to them ...or offer to pull them out of the ditch when you pass them further down the road.
-4x4 doesn't make you invincible, It just gives you a little more traction.
-If you are driving on a snow, ice, and dry pavement mix, make sure you turn your 4wd on and off accordingly. You don't want to bind it up on the dry pavement.
-Yes you can shift on the fly, I usually let off the gas..let the 4Wd indicator come on, then give it gas again.
-You probably won't need 4Lo driving on the streets. 4hi will suffice.
-Always know a way out..usually gradually pulling your tires onto the shoulder will give you a little more traction if the pavement is slick.
-Keep a good distance and don't make sudden movements.
-Also relax yourself and just concentrate and driving smoothly. If you are too tense you will be more likely to over-correct.
-You don't need your locker in the snow, in fact in some cases it will be worse and can cause the rear end to break traction and the rear can slide out.