NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Thats how I felt about it too but after researching into it I found the WebMD of my truck lol. I wasn’t so sure though and I am not too familiar with spindle failures so I wanted to check with y’all. Thanks for the quick input on it. I will start watching it closely.

 

Itll tow fine. Wont be a speed machine through the mountains but itll get there. The only negative is you will be able to watch your gas gauge going down lol.

The main thing I would do....upgrade the transmission cooler. The stock on is pretty meh once you start towing.

@Greddy just got a trailer if i remember correctly so he might be able to add some things

 

Why do you need dual? Do you want isolation, or run together? My diesel has dual batteries, but no isolation. I'm pretty sure the power lead from my first battery to the starter is larger than your largest lead from your battery.
When I had my Tacoma, I was considering a dual batt setup, and have a switch in cab to connect it. The negative can be wired from one battery to the other. My thought was to add a fuse from second battery to go to a switch in the cab, then from switch to 100A relay. The main power from second battery I was thinking to go through the relay, and connect to the positive of first battery. This would have them connected in parallel when I flip the switch, and the relay would be powered by the second battery. Once the engine is running, the alternator can charge both batteries, and the in cab switch can be flipped to disconnect and isolate the second battery again.

If you don't have access to a welder, unistrut is something easy to find as well, and it is easy to cut to length, then use some allthread, nuts, and washers to bolt the battery to the strut. The strut can be through bolted, or tek screwed into the truck.

If you have a toolbox in the bed, that can be a good spot to hide the second battery as well. That will keep it dry, but it will require extra length of wiring.

I pulled a 15 ft (3000 lbs dry, 3800 gvwr) with my 4 banger. I didn't have a trans temp gauge, and my truck did it. Get the bigger mirrors. I put the dodge style fold out mirrors on, and that helps tremendously. The stock mirrors don't go out far enough and you end up looking at the front of the trailer more than along the side.
I had a basic preset brake controller I got from uhaul. It works, but I would reccomend getting a proportional brake controller. After I got a bigger truck to replace my Tacoma, I got a tekonsha proportional brake controller for about $110 on Amazon, and mounted it to the dash next to the A pillar. The proportional ones have to be mounted about level in the truck, as they have internal sensors to determine how much brake force to send to the trailer. When I wired it into my last truck, I was able to slip the leads down a small slot in the dash, so no drilling of new holes. When I put it into my current truck, the diesel, I was able to tuck the leads through a different hole to get under the dash, so again, no drilling of the dash.

In pulling a travel trailer, it is like driving with a parachute hooked to your truck. When I've pulled my little 15 ft with my diesel, I am still doing about 65 in a 70. Going up hills, like i90 on either side of Vantage, just run slower. In my Tacoma, I had 31s and 3" OME/Dakar leaf pack, and every little uphill I was losing speed. If you have oversized tires on stock gears, you may want to look into regearing. The 2nd gen v6 is rated to tow up to 6500#, so it can pull the almost 4900# fully loaded trailer, but be ready to burn gas a lot faster, and feel weak.

 

anyone in the market for a beat not babied 06 DCSB?

 

I'll start the bid at $10

 

Doin' my best to make my truck not white. Avants Off Road put on a fun little muddin' day at Dirtfish.

 

So I’ve been offered a 4th gen 4runner for a deal that I really can’t pass up. Been considering switching to an SUV for quite sometime already. . . Was wanting an 80’s series landcruiser so I’m really torn if I should jump on the runner, transfer parts from the truck over and just stick with the runner for a while until the right LC comes along.

 

I love the 80 series but the money they are demanding these days is absurd. Still is my ideal offroader/family hauler though. Good luck with your search.

As to the 4runner, if you plan on keeping it after the LC comes to fruition go for it, if you are going to sell it (or the tacoma) when the LC arrives then I wouldn't bother with yet another car transaction. But that's just me.

 

So when people finally part ways with their built Tacoma’s so you generally part out or sell as is? I think it may be time for me with this Tacoma at least. This thing hasn’t stopped vibrating like a nut job since being rear-ended despite attempting to replacing and balancing literally everything that could cause it. 4wd blinking light came back today to top things off.

Also, if I went 3rd gen due to 2nd gen tax is there anything you brought with you from your 2nd gen? I was going to build this thing into a crawler eventually but I want to build from a relatively solid foundation.

 

Did someone say part out??? There's nothing you can bolt onto a Tacoma to make it worth any more money. It only increases desirability to someone looking for exactly what you have, aftermarket parts have zero value on the vehicle. Remove everything you can.

 

Yep so I guess I need to remove all the work I have done in the last few months lol. CVJ axles, super bumps and pull sliders, JBA UCAs, canopy and the winch. Rest of everything probably has to stay since it replaced damaged bumpers from the accident. May be time for a dedicated off-roader and a tow rig but Tundras are pretty pricy too lol

 

If you go the 3rd gen route, pull the front bed rail utility track thingy. 3rd gen only has them on the sides, but the 2nd gen one will bolt right up on the front.

 

Is it the one my friend sold to your buddy in the 4WP parking lot?

 

I’m in the market for some adjustable front shocks and I’m wondering if anyone manufacture is hold best in the PNW. King,Fox,ADS,Icon, and so on. Most of them come from desert racing not rain mud and snow so I’m curious what people’s experiences have been. Cheers

 

I can't speak for the other manufactures, but I've been running Kings for the past 65k miles and haven't had any problems. The first 55K saw heavy use on logging roads all year long.

 

Stay away from the OME "high end" stuff. ADS seems to be the money shot

 

Dibs on the CVJ's if you decide to go that route!

 

Interested in the JBA's if you pull em off!

 

All the suspension parts are interchangeable. I think roof racks are the same as well. So you could always buy some oem 3rd gen take off suspension/wheels for cheap and throw them on while you sell yours and then put your stuff on a 3rd gen. I thought 2nd gens were loyalists though

 

oh shit. inferno dcsb, black wheels and softtopper. My doppleganger!