Tacoma 2.5" x 12-14" Shock Relocation 2005-2023 2nd 3rd gen Archive Garage

Make sure those suckers are flush and you also have good thread engagement.

 

The wheels I'm getting are like those on the left, with no void in between stud holes

 

So my relocate kits are on the way and I found King 2.5 12” smoothies to be here in a week. I’m having this done in a shop so I want everything thought out beforehand

Just want to get everything lined up...

I have these Timbren bumps... I assume I should upgrade to the archive bumps instead? Or super bumps or something?


I have +4” rear brake lines. If I add an inch spacer to my axle mount for the brake line is that enough?

I need to rotate the axle mount for the parking brake line to give it a little slack, or extend the wires.

I need weld on resi mounts.

I will have the shop mount and measure everything including the limit strap attachment. So I can order a strap when I know the size needed. Any body have a sense of the size needed with king 12” smoothies on the included hardware?

 

I think the Timbrens are probably fine, if they compress significantly. That kit has a low mounting pedestal.
+4" combined with spacer should be ok for 12" shocks
Limit strap length with 12" shocks and tab location recommended in the instructions is ~18-19" range

 

Just preparing what I need to do when all my parts arrive..
What is the process/steps to properly mount the lower shock mounts to the diff tube?
Do you install the completed spring pack/shackle/hanger assemblies first, then proceed with the shock upper and lower relocation?
I know you have to cycle the diff up and down, then position the lower mount level, but at what position/travel must the differential be?

 

The best way is to have your leaf pack + U-bolt flip/bumpstops installed because both thickness/height affect your bump height. Then you set the axle tabs off full bump height.
Email archivegarage.com@gmail.com for instructions to review

 

Fact: 14" shocks don't give any more bump travel than 12" shocks, which is what you are asserting by saying "you can go faster without causing the rear end to kick up".

There are numerous factors to consider, its not smart to chase a number, or apply some formula, likely from an offroad race truck, to a midtravel Tacoma.

 

14" was not referring to the rear shock stroke at all , I think you misunderstood. 14" was describing the rear total travel . You can achieve that 14" of travel with a 12" shock a 14" shock or a 16" shocks. you can even achieve that with a 10" shock (on a cantilever for example).

That 1:1.5 ratio can be made to work well with a stock VW, race truck or mid travel Tacoma, it doesn't matter, it's just physics . With 8-9" of wheel travel up front (setup correctly), you would need at least 14" of total rear travel (ideally with 8" up travel) in order to maximize the front setup. If not, no big deal, just drive slower. However, you wont get to see just how well a mid-travel front end can work without 14"+ in the rear (to prevent bucking up and bottoming out hard in the rear). It's not mandatory , just "ideal".

 

Your statements can be discussed in the LTBS thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/long-travel-bs-thread.109317/

This thread is to discuss our proven product working awesome for hundreds of customers

Thank you

 

No doubt, it works great. I mean, I'm confirming that such a set up can work very well right? 9" travel up front and running hangers and leaf's with shock relocation out back (is in that ball park ya)? your set up is around 12-14" travel no?

 

Total travel has no meaning if 8” of that travel is all droop. Yes, I’ve got a 14” shock which realistically is giving me about 13” of total travel to not risk bottoming out the shock, but 8-9” of that is droop depending on what weight I’m carrying. Without a bed cage, that ratio isn’t applicable to the Tacoma’s useable bump travel with a relocation tower below the bed. Can you achieve those ratio in terms of travel numbers, yes. Is it going to to equate to off-road performance, probably not.

 

Looking to purchase everything here real soon. Should I go bora aluminum spacer or steel?

 

Aluminum is fine, steel is more appropriate for a 1 ton truck that tows heavy IMO

 

Is a spacer required?

 

Please search this thread, or read my site description, thank you

 

I got the 2.5 x14s not sure if everything looks correct but it seems to ride great wondering if I would have had more uptravel with the 12s, with the deaver u402 stage 1,hammer hangers and shackles,archive u bolt flip,archive relocate. I am aware I need to flip the shackle bolts and u bolt plates around still waiting on the front 2.5 extended travel and icon uppers hope it will level out

 

Or a wide tundra or Ford 9” axle swap

 

I can’t seem to find it when I re-read the thread. @ARCHIVE Eric, what length hose was it you spec’d for remote reservoir smoothies?

Gonna be selling my bypasses. No longer going long travel so not really any need for bypasses. Sad days.

 

16" is good, Fox is 16", (King comes standard with 14", ok with comp adjuster elbow above the resi, otherwise a little short)

 

Sorry for late comment, I didn't put together the 14" and where your axle tabs are, they are too high for 14". They need to rotated down like instructions say, so that bottom edge of axle tab is closer to 45deg from horizontal.
(14" collapsed length is 3" longer than 12" shock)

Once fixed, you will have full bump travel.

Also, your reservoir is hanging too low, spring will come up and hit it. I recommend the reservoir be rotated 180deg around the hose, just like the Kings pictured in post #1.