vF Tuner for the 3.5L Tacoma-AGM tuning

What I am wondering is if we would need a new alternator or not. I think the stock alternator maxes at 14.8V. Supplying 97% max voltage all the time does not sound like a good idea long term...

I tried looking up specs for the alternator but theyre not as detailed as one would hope.

 

Every AGM battery is slightly different, it’s best to look up the specs for your battery and adjust accordingly.

My AGM is happy at 13.8-14.6V...

I’m waiting on my OVTune to get here on Tuesday so I’m eager to see what this whole process entails.

 

Anyone play around with these settings for 04B33. New ECU for 04B31 yet? Just bought a Northstar x2 27F and will be playing around to try and get a good charging voltage. Charging voltage for this battery is 14.4-14.8v

 

Has anyone had an issue where the voltage drops to 12.9 - 13.1V when shifting out of Park into R or D? When the truck is sitting idle or driving the voltage reads between 14.3V - 14.7V. When this happens I get an error message on my dash telling me to check the charging system. Also the batteries always seem to drain over time and I have to charge them every two weeks or so. Maybe the alternator is no good? I have two yellow top AGM batteries connected in parallel through a charge relay.

 

I get the drop sometimes, but it seems more when going into reverse. However, I do not get the dash warning.

my AGM charging table is pretty damn perfected on my end for the ECU temp table and leaving the stock values in the other phase duty tables/etc. pm me if you want it

 

I have 3 batteries in the truck with two under the hood and 1 in the camper so I think maybe I was overloading the system a bit.

 

maybe just a tad...

 

@brkncly

here is the thread you need to look into for information requested. GL.

 

So, I had an OV Tune installed on my 2017 Tacoma DCLB OR for about a month now. Gotta say what a HUGE improvement. While doing this, I had asked the guy that installed the OV Tune to adjust my alternator output to make sure that my new X2 AGM battery would be fully charged. I have read and heard that these Tacoma don’t do a good job fully charging an AGM, unless you put them on a trickle charge every month. Now that the alternator output is higher, I want to make sure that I’m not over charging the battery that might shorten its life. With the truck running using a voltmeter, it’s at 14.8 volts. When the truck is not running using a voltmeter, it’s at 13.3 volts. Does this seem safe? If not, what voltages should I be seeing? Any advice or suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

 

Bumping as I’m curious on these measurement. I had my truck ov tuned by someone local and he told me he did it for AGM, but I only have 13.7 while truck is at idle so I’m thinking he didn’t even do it.....

 

I have been using this as the only changes, while keeping all the other tables as stock so the stock curve matches. This has netted a consistent 14.3-14.5v while driving. I did test raising all values after the 94 value by 0.2 and it is fine as well, just sees 14.5 slightly more often.

 

So bottom line I should be safe, this electrical stuff is over my head lol.

 

I think you might be over doing your battery charge at the values you are measuring. I thought I read earlier in this thread a fully charged X2 was 12.6? I err on the cautious side and am running the stock values everywhere except the base phase map @SpeySquatch showed above. There I’m running a toned back version of @banjoist13 values from the first post in the thread.

I get 14.7 on cold mornings but it settles around 14.3-14.6 most of the time with occasional drops to 14.1-14.2 on longer drives and stop and go traffic.

 

I doubt he did it......before I changed mine to my AGM settings, that's about where is was charging at.

 

Oh sorry, didnt get the notification i was tagged in here.

I’m still running my flat settings and havent had any issues since i set them last summer running for hours at a time and across a lot of different temperatures. I’ve been going to adjust mine to follow the factory curve and just adjust each value up by X but havent gotten around to it.

 

its all good. I have since changed to these ECU values with all other stock tables.

 

You didnt modify the duty cycle tables?

If you are bumping output voltage, you need to also increase duty cycle

 

i left the stock tables (phase duty tables) as is and the result is a very consistent output of 14.3-14.5 volts monitored closely. I think keeping the stock curve of the duty tables makes sense. When I changed the output originally to what people speculated, bad things started to happen such as smell and battery swelling. This was immediate

I do not believe editing the phase tables is necessary and there have been other members that can agree based on their testing. The thing is when I watch the voltage output of the alternator change based on my values it is extremely consistent and matches my need throughout the engine heating and cooling

 

Have any of you guys experienced the check charging system warning light when using a high draw power source? I flashed a friends truck with a @PapaRee tune that he also adjusted for AGM.

When the guy is using his ARB Twin or Winch, he’s getting the “Check Charging System” message on the gauge cluster. Only happens when using those two things, which we all know are drawing a lot of amps.

he said it didn’t start doing that until I flashed the tune with the AGM settings...curious if anyone else has had the same experience.

 

I have both and have had no problems. AGM Northstar group31 with AGM settings on PapaRee's tune- 04B04