Northern Virginia Roll Call

Yes.

 

Yeah an O2 failure is typically caught as a short/open by the ECM now and you'll get the relevant code. If you want to check for exhaust leaks, get a cheap stethoscope from Harbor Freight and a 3' section of brake tubing. I like to add a ~60 degree to one end and insert the other end in the rubber tube of the stethoscope. Then just point the end around the joint with the truck cold before the exhaust has had a chance to expand and you'll hear pretty obvious popping when you find a leak. It's a super accurate method and you'll know where a leak is within about a quarter inch.

Those clamps are typically good to go for exhaust but if you do get a leak, I've definitely shored some up with the high temp redish RTV... just pull it loose, hit it with alcohol and a brush to clean it up nicely, then apply it to the pipe and reassemble. Be sure to get it nice and tight and let it sit to cure a little before you fire it up.

Though I will say, water dripping is pretty normal from a cold engine and isn't necessarily an indicator of a leak... often times that's just condensation on the outside of the pipe that collects around the lower points before dripping.

I do believe that it shows the detailed O2 info on that tool but I honestly don't remember. It unfortunately varies wildly what is shown because anything beyond the basic required stuff is up to the OEM to allow or not. Many feature lock it behind licensed tools from Snap-On and OTC and the like.

Just a heads-up, these are going to be wide-band O2 sensors upstream which means the traditional voltage method isn't going to fly. Not sure which are downstream. Low voltage can mean either big leak forcing them in one direction or it can mean an internal short. You might see if you can find a service manual which gives testing procedures.

 

Emissions for sure no. I've never gotten a straight answer for safety. I've witnessed both ways. If you're only due for safety, reset the light and then go in. You'd definitely be fine that way.

 

Thanks for the info. I like the idea about the stethoscope, I'll pick one up. Trying to visualize what you are describing with the screenshot below of the HF scope, would I just add the brake hose to the end of the metal tube?

 

Skimming thru and checking in..

I had good luck chasing very small exhaust leaks with this stuff over the many years of messing around with exhaust systems.



This is good for the real small minor imperfections in exhaust pipe mating surface and pipe ends. manifold gaskets and even the old doughnut that went between the collector and down pipe. Hell, do they even use those anymore?.

just throwing it out there.

 

Yep, you think the shops gonna "waste" time/$ diagnosing your issue let alone to see if it is something to fail you on.

My civic passed with it on (one of the catalytics is bad). Dealership just put CEL on service items recommended.

 

Ah yeah you'd need one more like this one from Lisle on Amazon. Just remove the entire black end piece and slip the tube inside. If it slips out, even better because the metal feeler is good for picking up noises inside parts (like which lifter is ticking) by just holding it to them.

 

@NoVa TRD Sport

 

https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/Prinsu-Roof-Rack-7-XL-Linkable-Kit.asp

For @Rome604 or others...

 

Looks way better than a standard light bar, IMO. Damn, I need to get me a Prinsu already and sell my current roof rack locally.

 

I'm old school. I prefer big round lights.

 

I think that is why I like those...closer in shape/look to the KCs I used to run on my Heeps.

 

They gotta pump those numbers up. It’s 7 XL Sports. I think they went with the sports because they didn’t want to worry about dual wiring harnesses. I’ve got a 12 gauge harness running up each side of my windshield and they’re tied to two circuits on my sPod (controlled by one switch).

 

These look awesome!!!! But as with most Baja products, I nearly passed out from the price.

 

Is this really what these trucks are worth? I have no intention of selling, but thought it would have been more.

 

Probably price too... 7x XL Pro would be over $2k for just the lights which is the same territory as the 50" OnX6+ bars. BD is proud of their brackets too.

But some dude has one of the universal ones on his T4R around here that I saw at SDHQ one day... looks damn good in person but it's hard to justify it when the S8 bar is so much less for the same output.

 

All I got out of that is that I'm jealous you can go to SDHQ. They're only a few minutes from where I used to live.

 

But they do have customers that are willing to pay to play. The output of my roof rack is way more than an OnX6+ bar could get to...and I've got lasers. I guess my point is that I went with big boy XL lights only because of the performance. If my options were only the XL Sport linkable or a S8 then I'd go with the S8.

 

Everything is better with lasers.

 

Yeah totally agree. If the LP6 lights on my bumper didn't turn out to be so damn good I was looking at doing five of the the XL Pro/Laser pods in a (C)-(S)-(L)-(S)-(C) setup on the roof but since these cover the near field so well, I'll probably just end up with a 30" OnX6+ spot bar to cover the distance.