Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

If you want to make a trip up to Philly we can make that install happen.

 

There is exactly enough room to swing a hammer inside the LCA if you have the right driver and hammer combo.

Although a fitting for the air hammer would be a nice little project...

 

Or just put a long pipe on the driver so you're swinging the hammer out away from the truck. Half of a floor jack handle works perfectly.

 

I've tried variations on that with limited success, but not going that long. I'll give it a shot on Sunday.

 

Many busted knuckles later with a mini sledge. I'm actually kinda of surprised I didn't end up with at least one broken finger. HF race driver. It sticks out about 3 or 4" from the clamshell alone and with the coilover all the brake lines, knuckle and everything else in the way.... Probably wasn't the smartest approach, but I came into it with about 5 minutes of research on how to do it.
At first I was trying to do it without a race driver.....

 

You had a "race driver"
Just wasn't quite a race driver.

 

I approached it like I do all press fit stuff: froze the bushing overnight then gently heated the diff housing with a map gas torch. The bushing slipped in without anything more than a nudge from my race driver. Easy peasy.

 

That sounds shitty.

 

I should try freezing the bushings, I'm sure my wife will appreciate those in the drop freezer about as much as she did deer hooves for the dogs.

 

Hit it with some inverted computer dust remover. -40c in two minutes.

 

I was able to cut everything off the passenger side today with another few hours. I bolted up the lca tab kit to “locate” the frame. There’s a few areas I want to work at to see if I can get it to fit closer.

these pictures are with a jack under the specific spot with some pressure. I still had the weight of the truck on jack stands. Though using a jack to push the lca frame to the truck frame helped a ton.

 

My next step is to better fit this lca kit, prep the cuts and fill plates for the slide rack heim brackets, clearance and fill plates for the 934s, fit the bypass mounts and lastly the upper arm double sheer gussets prior to welding.

 

Those notches on the rear are for those formed plates to be welded over the open pocket. Don’t know if you tried that yet?

 

Yes. I’m aware of it. They still slid in place, I didn’t have enough hands to hold everything for a picture.

 

@81Trekker I have a question about the double sheer steering kit and LT.

If I purchase LT and the double sheer steering kit, does that change the length of the steering kit tie rod end?

Meaning with LT, is it:

tie rod —> LT steering extension —> heimed tie rod end.

Or is it:

tie rod —> custom length heimed tie rod end.


edit: Another question. For the 934 core deposit, are you only interested in the factory inner tulip? So you can cut it up to be used for future 934 inners? Or do you require the whole axle for the $300 core refund.

 

All LT kits come with a standard steering extension, the heimed double shear kit come with its own adapter. If you already have the heimed DS kit and then purchase the LT kit we will upgrade you to a one piece extension/heim adapter at no charge

 

Perfect, that's what I was hoping to hear and what I assumed. Fewer pieces in the chain to fail. Thanks.

 

No worries and yes we are all about strength and simplicity!

 

Great thread just made it all the way through. So many amazing parts. I will have to get my list together and call JD to see how long I will have to work 7-12s to pay for it all.