NW WA Meet / BS Thread

It was there 3 days. They billed it at $290 a side no hrs. He said it was the third hardest set of headers he’s ever done in 24 years of wrenching. He said he’s done two different 67’ GTO’s that he had to undo the motor mounts and use a cherry picker to pull it up to get them in. Yes on the ARP studs... he said those sucked too to tighten. I paid him and thanked him and felt guilty as hell when I walked out.

 

4th gen. 06 07 ish I think?

 

Different size wheels

 

Should have worded that differently, I meant replace the 33s with some 35s then sell the 33s

 

Just prefer 17’s to 16’s all day. Especially after the couple months at 4wp. There’s just so many more options from all the tire manufacturers

 

16”s clear the brakes?

 

Apparently since that’s what’s on there

 

I always hear everyone complain how hard the headers are. Either my truck is oddly out of spec or I just dont get why people say that unless they try to do everything from above. Seriously pull the tires off, pull the splash guard thingy's off and you have access to everything pretty much. Just have a universal adapter for your ratchet. Took me like an hour to remove old ones and installs new ones. Like anything can be different if you have rusted out hardware. Even the 2012+ which are supposed to be harder I didnt find all that much harder either

 

That makes sense

 

ill lend a hand if you like.

 

Keeping an eye out for first gen parts fellas. I need a push button transfer case for my ‘02. Also looking for a good running 3.0 for a ‘94. Please pm me if you see anything out there. Thanks in advance fellas.

 

Coming home over the pass from Cle Elum a couple weeks ago, I was in 4 wheel drive on the highway with rain/patchy ice conditions and the transfer case started binding and grinding hard. Large bang before I could take it out. Once home I tried in the driveway and it’s locked up! Never had this happen before, but it’s the first time I’ve used 4 wheel drive since swapping to 4.88’s and a Detroit in the front. I should have been smarter than to run it at 70 down the freeway.

 

Certainly there are differences between the 1st and 2nd gen but what’s the system state now? Stuck in 4wd, blinking light? Saw a first gen thread talking about vacuum to the front ADD. In my situation it had all been electrical more or less and mostly mechanical components were fine after re-timing all the actuators. You can also apply direct power to all the actuators at 1/2 pins to test but you don’t want to drive them over their valid positions. You can also test the t case actuator sensors, cab switch diodes with diode test, and separately electrical connectors from the wiring harness with an ohmeter I think they should run 12-14v. All the threads I have are relating to the 2nd gen or I would share them as well.

All this was just last month or so of troubleshooting my own system. Most common is the front ADD it seems as a failure component but the cab switch, vacuum line correction, and sensors are cheaper fixes.

You will here your t-case actuator actuating if it’s not toast if you aren’t hearing it and think it is you can double check it with that direct 12v if it’s taking power it’s just out of timing id guess the problem is elsewhere. Seems it’s generally best to start a thread on this since there’s so many avenues it goes down.

 

Thank you for your time in responding! I don’t believe it’s an actuator issue. It will engage and disengage fine with the button push, but bangs and binds up at the slightest roll of the truck. It ran down the freeway great for probably 30 miles before it had an issue and I’ve ran it countless miles at freeway speeds in the past when it’s been snow and ice conditions. I figure the transfer case was either beginning to fail or there’s something not right with the new gear/locker combo. Although, I don’t know what that issue might be? I’m waiting to have replacement parts before tearing it apart though and now considering some upgrades possibly.

 

@Shadowhunter recently re-geared up front and I think you could check with him for any insight on orientation and such. As far as I know he hasn’t had any issues yet. Hmmm that is odd, I think digging I have seen broken actuator arms. In your case easiest check may just be to drain a bit of fluid and discover it quick.

Actually I happened to take mine to Toyota for a troubleshoot during all this and they had mentioned even when you’re certain it’s the actuator. Drain the t-case fluid as they have replaced peoples actuators but it was actually the transfer case. Good luck on it I hope it’s one of the cheaper components rather than the whole t-case.

 

That’s good advice one draining the fluids. If it’s an 02’ a TC probably isn’t too bad in price to buy and its way easier to replace than a front end.

 

I need to remove it, looks like a broken t-case chain.

 

Just installed RCI Offroad aluminum transmission and transfer case skids on the truck. Good news, the transfer case crossmember is 100% compatible with BAMF sliders.

I know everyone said "STEEL!" last time I asked about advice on skids...but I just couldn't justify the weight for a daily driver. I'm really trying hard to keep it down, since I still want to add roof racks and a hidden winch mount, and I really don't want to have to replace the Fox suspension. I also don't really wheel hard, this is more for "oopsie" protection when I'm going down a forestry road.

I did have to request an additional hardware pack to get it to work with the OEM front skid, and I lost about an inch or so of clearance there, but small price to pay for the additional protection.

 

Nice re-route. I need to get mine don't so I can finally put my TC skid on

 

The guy who did mine did a fantastic job. Unfortunately he moved on from side-project welding shortly after I had mine done, so I consider myself lucky.

TIG welded 2.5" 304 stainless. No kill like overkill.