Anything welding

or look at the plate on the side of the welder, it'll show the max amperage draw on the input side. My Titanium 170 will draw up to 24A @ 120V and up to 26.8A @ 240V.

Thus it'd need up to 2880 watts on 120V, 6432 watts on 240V at max power.

FWIW though, I'd played with it a bit on 120V from an igen2500 (2500peak/2200sustained) generator and it works surprisingly well for smaller stuff.

 

That'd just be way too easy. I'm also not being a bit grumpy this morning I need a Monster

 

Do you have the manual for the welder? Mine has pretty clear information about what I can use to power it.

25v @ 250A is 6,250 watts and assuming 100% efficiency.

 

If you don`t have all that much why not go a WC-24 and a Miller Spoolmatic 30A with a Miller Trail Blazer of current or older vintage ??

I have done 1/8" and 1/4" Aluminum with no problem.also gives you the option of Changing to steel or stainless with a wire and gas swap.

It would seem the least amount of equipment to lug along.

Just what are you getting into and how much work to get things clean would be my concern

Funny how some Inverters don`t like Generators and others are not bothered within a few digits in the serial #

 

Has anyone used one of these? The reviews seem surprisingly good, but I’m kinda skeptical.

https://www.affordablebender.com/co...roducts/affordable-bender-134-die-on-7-radius

 

This dude has done all the tube work on this thing with one of those.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ifs-to-1-ton-truggy.607661/

 

that’s pretty convincing

 

I agree. I almost went with it but I wanted a tighter CLR and more than 110 degrees to leave my options open. That's who made my tube notcher though.

 

Yea. Seems like a “budget” bender in the JD^2 model 3 style converted to hydraulic will only be a couple hundred more.

 

Or JMR which is what I have, a little cheaper than the jd2.

 

I have the Pro Tools with the Off Road Swag hydraulic conversion setup. Works great, but ultimately comes down to dyes are just flat ass expensive. Once you have them, then you are golden. JD2 dyes seem easier and more widely utilized to come by, but all in all eastwood are the only ones that I have heard of busting at the higher 1.75 DOM end tubing sizes.

 

Thanks everyone for the recommendations and replies! I'll see what I can acquire today and what I can for in my truck. I've attached a photo of the units I'll be working on (we will remove them from water, disassemble and and clean them before welds) , and a photo of my Amp draw.

 

Rather than fuck with a hi lift again to break beads, I stole the ram off of my tube bender and made a little hitch insert for it. Works as well as a hi lift and way less effort. Now I just need a heavier truck because it just wants to lift the ass end up.

 

Time to learn tig!

 

Best way to learn!

 

For sure! I was going to get a Lincoln machine but lowes doesn't sell the one I wanted. Wanted a store warranty so I figured harbor freight couldn't hurt.

 

put some shackles on your garage floor and use straps to hold the ass down.

 

Nice. I'll be eager to hear how you like it.


BTW - just saw a new coupon for Vulcan accessories / consumables at hfqpdb.com that might be a help - no current coupons the welder.

Looks like it applies to the Vulcan ArcSafe welding helmet I've been thinking about... hmm, 1/1/1/2 for $120 or 1/1/1/1 for $207 to $235...

 

That would work well but I'm not about to drill into the concrete for that lol

 

Can you use this ram in manually and air/hydro mode? I have a really nice bender that runs off air/hydro i received as a gift. The ram does not have the ability to be used manually and i am looking at a cheaper alternative to bend tube with Habor freight ram similar to the one pictured. I am currently saving up for a Quincy compressor but want to bend tube sooner than I will have a compressor that can run my bender.