Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

Its not permitted by BC building code to interconnect the rainscreen cavity into the soffit or roof venting system for fire blocking reasons

 

FYI ~ very excited to get set up inside and finally have a real shop where I can leave tools set up and just leave projects where ever I am at end of day , and just pick up where I left off the next day without having to get all set up again

 

Yes it is!

 

Our local energy design conference is coming up this month, and i feel like this entire thread could be its own presentation on how to plan things out and do it right the first time. Going all virtual this year due to covid, but at least its free that way.

http://www.duluthenergydesign.com/Agendas

 

If you're interested in this system , there is a free guide available from the Province of British Columbia which is very helpful , especially the tables for size and spacing of furring and fastener sizes and spacing depending on siding weight

@23Skidoo you may find this useful

https://www.bchousing.org/publications/IG-R22-Effective-Walls-Residential-Construction.pdf

 

Was supposed to be goin’ to some international one but I believe it’s been canceled. No biggie. Can’t fly outta the country anyhow.

 

We are doing something similar at the coop site. The studio build is going to have Rockwool exterior insulation on the roof and walls. The detail for assembly was still being designed last time I was on site. I should be out there next week. I know fire is a big concern for the client, be interesting to see what they landed on.

 

ok, after reading through that report you linked and spending too much time zooming in on your pictures, there is one detail im confused on (mostly because that report shows it 2 different ways, and I think one of them is wrong). on page 52 it shows the bottom drip chanel that transitions the siding to grade as behind the Tyvek, and on page 12 it shows it on top of the tyvek. I know you used that 1x2 you sloped and put the drip cut on, but how did that get secured and sealed to your membrane?

 

yeah, the one in Austin Tx just went all virtual, I believe that was BPA. We were supposed to go to that one also. Lots of good info, but tends to be geared toward warmer climates and not as applicable to cold weather building.

 

page 12 is a self adhered membrane providing a drainage plane across the foundation insulation , the air barrier is continuous behind it , sealed to the bituminous membrane applied to the foundation

page 52 , that same element I think you are referring to is a self adhered membrane (peel & stick) that provides a continuity from the peel & stick sealing the air barrier to the foundation , over the applied exterior foundation insulation to the exterior of the foundation insulation protection board or parging

My bottom grounds sit on the concrete ledge I provided , against the Siga Fentrim I used to seal my plywood to the foundation . The grounds are wrapped top and face in a self adhered membrane (Vycor Deck Protector). The Typar stops short of top of ground by about 3/4" . I used Simpson A24 angle brackets screwed into top of ground and into plywood to resist any rotation in the ground when loaded . Once the grounds were attached I taped the seam between the ground and wall with Siga Wigluv (taped to the Siga Fentrim and the Vycor) and then taped the bottom of the Typar to the Siga Wigluv with another layer of Siga Wigluv

say that 10 times fast

 

There is something satisfying about air sealing and waterproofing the building envelope. Attention to detail starts early on. Austin is a dry to the inside environment, they’ve been experimenting with spray on waterproof vapor barrier here.

 

What sort of flatulence are you anticipating? N/M...

Great thread, thank you for documenting your build, so much good information here and it takes time to include it but much appreciated!
I can't remember being so excited to see someone else's project completed.

 

In the theme of what we were discussing earlier , this is how I'm dealing with continuity at the head flashings over doors and windows with the 2" exterior Comfortboard80 insulation

There will be an 1 1/2" thick head trim above the window , on top of that trim I need to install a head flashing with a 2" wall leg . I don't want a flashing to penetrate through my Comfortboard layer because the metal would create a thermal bridge through the insulation .

What I've done is install a 3" strip of Comfortboard above the windows with a 10 degree bevel on top . Applied to that there is a peel & stick flashing tape that has a split release paper . The flashing tape hangs down the face of the Comfortboard approx 1 1/2" and crosses up the 10 degree bevel and up the wall approx 2" . The release paper on the 1 1/2" lap at the front face is still in place on the back of the tape . Once the head trim and flashing are installed this tape will overlap the 2" wall leg of the metal flashing and be stuck to it .



I ran a strip of Typar from soffit framing to shingle lap the peel & stick and taped all the seams with housewrap tape (bottom wasn't taped to peel & stick yet when this pic was taken)



And finally , I installed the Comfortboard above the window . The bottoms of these pieces were cut at a 10 degree bevel so they would meet tightly against the lower strip



After I install the window trims , the 2" wall leg of the head flashing will tuck under that exposed peel & stick tab , I'll pull the release paper on the exposed tab and stick it to the flashing creating a continuous pitched flashing line from the WRB to the exterior

 

So final coat of drywall mud and touch ups should happen tomorrow if everything dries enough tonight , I'll take inside pic when they're all done

Meanwhile , outside I've got all the Comfortboard80 fitted to the building below the soffit elevation all the way around the building (gable ends require a slightly different approach , more on that later)

Comfortboard was 'tacked' on to building using 2 1/2" screws and Schluter Kerdiboard washers . Permanent fixture of the Comfortboard is acheived by 1x4 strapping screwed through the Comfortboard and directly into the studs. This strapping then provides the attachment points for the corrugated metal siding.

The strapping is beveled to 10 degrees on top edge and fastened to the studs with #10 x 4 3/4" GRK R4 screws that acheive a 1 1/2" embedment into the studs . Screw sizing , spacing and embedment as well as strapping size and spacing conform to the tables for siding attachment over rigid mineral wool insulation in the R-22 wall guide I linked in post #745.

I made a story pole to lay out my strapping . All measurements are referenced off the underside of the pressure treated ground I installed at bottom of wall for the Comfortboard to sit on .

In order to make it easier for a one man gang to install the strapping I came up with this idea ~ I screwed some off cuts of 3/4" plywood to back of story pole with the top of plywood at layout mark representing bottom of 1x4 strapping . I also screwed a little foot of 3/4" plywood to the bottom of my story pole extending 1 1/2" toward the wall .

All I needed to do then was rest the story pole against the Comfortboard and slide it up until the foot hooked under the bottom ground , and screw the top the the side of a rafter tail . My layout was all now where it should be and the 3/4" plywood blocks spaced the story pole off the wall allowing me to slide strapping between story pole and wall and rest it on the plywood blocks so I could start at the other end . This worked really well and I had no issues installing the 16' strapping by myself



Strapping screwed to studs



I'll continue with strapping install tomorrow then I'm going to back frame the flat soffits from the sub-fascia to the 1x6 strap at top of wall

 

Found enough straight 16' 1x4!?

 

I actually ripped them out of 1x8 , 14's was longest 1x4 I could get locally

 

was about to make a comment on how straight his wood was

 

Yeah, none of that Southern Yellow Pine to deal with here.

 

Oh SYP is straight...until it starts to dry.

 

So , drywall mud in the corners was still too wet to finish , should be all good tomorrow