TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Those sims can be made at home rather easily. Saw a write up with radio shack parts that was done by one of the V8 4Runner crowd. They get long tubes too but less aftermarket support and no ECU tuning for the 2UZFE that I’m aware of.

 

I've been running the URD sim for some time now, works great. Granted, I have a 2014.

 

I ran the URD solder in sims, so like his old old old version for 8 years and only a few times I tripped a check engine light and got a code for over effeciant cats. Lol. Then took them out when I went to the Ucon as it has the sims built into it. But yes for the sims to work properly you do have to have a good sensor in place as the ECU still sees something.

 

And here is the pics of my coolant reservoir just kinda chilling in-between all my other crap. Just rotated the mount and am using it as a leg and made sure to have wire look over the top of any hose it touches. I know it would be simple to bend up a new bracket and drill a hole in the Co-Be bracket and bolt it all together. But lazy and find other things to do instead. No issues in about 8 years so why change what isn't broken. Lol

 

Yeah I’ve heard 15’s don’t work well or not at all. I too have a 14 so that comforting to know that it’ll be ok in mine once I make the switch.

 

Ill be under the truck today for 3rd member swaps. I'll get something posted for you.
I'm a bit embarrassed with the current state as it's all home built and I'm more of a Grinder than a Welder. Need to get some proper hangers set up...

 

this is a judgement freezone. . .. as in we're clear to judge as much as we need haha

I appreciate it.

 

I believe I have a dying alternator. The engine stalled randomly while backing up (5AT) and has been harder to start. Engine turns over but doesn't catch. Just in case anyone is having same issues. Going to pick one up today and git'er dun.

Also fitted up my boosty gauge if anyone has better suggestions to mount it?

 

https://www.carobotor.com.au/product-page/fj-pro

 

That's wild! Group buy anyone?

 

I also just had a really hard start this morning. It was like starting my old diesel tractor. I had to hold the key over for awhile before it finally started to spin up.

 

If you have issues with the sims, I have a pair of new inbox j-bungs with orifices that may help with CELs. I'm running HPtuners so have no need for them anymore. Paid about $25 each off Amazon but I'll sell em cheap.

 

Yeah I need to use sims. I can only have 1 “not ready” and that’s going to the little pump. If I have issues, I’ll let you know

 

Question for you guys. I used my scanner and deleted my code P0420 sensor/cat bank 1. The screen says “permanent” but on my dash upon startup I have no more “check engine” or “trac off” lights on. ......what I want to know is. If I were to get my truck scanned by whatever they use for the emissions check, would it still show up ?

 

As long as your sensors are in “ready status” you are good. If they read “not ready”, you will have to perform a drive cycle.

 

My understanding is the emissions check only scans for the readiness of the sensor. Not future or past codes. If it happens intermittently, then might be an issue you'll need to tend to depending on the test. I just had my registration smog check done at a star certified and I had bank 1 and 2 go rich the day before while accelerating from 3k rpm (code p0172, 0175). Cleared them that day and went in for a smog the next day and passed.

Might want to keep an eye on it. I was monitoring my battery voltage and after warm up, it was a bit lower and then with the efan ramping up on a warmer day today, the voltage was around 13.7-13.9. Normally 13.9-14.3 when warm. It's an old alternator by now but never had issues. Best to change it out I suppose. The shop that remans the alternator is offering a 5 year warranty and bumping it to a 130amp model.

 

Before I go switching the sensors to see if it’s a sensor or cat, I wanted to try to just delete the code and see what happens. Because my screen said “permanent” I got me thinking like it’s still in the ecu and I only deleted the light from coming in...idk. It all in all won’t matter once I switch to long tubes and sims

 

A Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is stored when a DTC is confirmed and the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL/CEL) has been illuminated. A Permanent DTC can only then be cleared by the module strategy and cannot be erased by clearing DTCs with a scan tool, a Keep-Alive Memory (KAM) reset, or battery disconnect.

The intended use of the Permanent DTC is to prevent vehicles from passing an in-use inspection simply by disconnecting the battery or clearing DTCs with a scan tool prior to the inspection.

A Permanent DTC will be erased one of two ways:

• After three consecutive confirmed fault-free monitoring cycles. The MIL is extinguished and the Permanent DTC is cleared at the start of the fourth fault-free monitoring cycle.
  
  
• After one confirmed fault-free monitoring cycle following a scan tool “clear DTC” request. A driving cycle must include the following:
  
  - The OBD monitor must run and determine that that fault is no longer present.
  - Cumulative time since engine start (or propulsion system active for hybrid vehicles) is greater than 10 minutes.
  - Cumulative vehicle operation above 40 km/h (25 MPH) occurs for greater than 5 minutes.
  - Continuous operation at idle (i.e., accelerator pedal released by driver and vehicle speed less than 1km/h or 1 MPH) for greater than 30 seconds.

 

........I just wanna get these longtubes,sims, and hp finally done to not worry about the dam ecu anymore. Can’t wait!!!

 

I’m supposed to get a discount code to make up for them not being ready for purchase on Black Friday. These clusters are like 4months behind schedule. They look super cool, but the Early FJ’s didn’t have as many of the technical goodies that this thing could display. Probably still end up with one.