Show off your aux fuse panels.

That is perfect thanks.
@RallySOP

Super clean install. Did the relays just plug into the ports ?

 

Didn’t account for the buss bar when I made the bracket and my OCD is killing me because of it. But all in all I think it turned out great.

 

Beauty. So the bus bar is basically a terminal for all the positive lines coming off relays ?

 

Yea, pretty much. Just wanted everything contained to one spot as neat as possible. Power and ground for the switches will be in the cab. So I just need one wire per switch going through the fire wall and the power wire from the accessory.

 

Keep an eye on your relays. If they’re not sealed they corrode. If you have problems you can switch to skirted or flux tight relays instead.

 

I actually run that exact relay box on my setup

Love it, its great, helt up to a lot of water and mud abuse

I ran mine in tandem with a blue seas fuse box (had the blueseas first before i found that relay box). But man that is a clean setup...

I had to do all the wiring myself. That inclues attaching the female spade connector onto a wire of you choice and slotting it into the underside of the relay box

Got my build log here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/shveets-build-thread-clementine.619286/page-3#post-24133282

 

I recently did an auxiliary fuse box. I did the blue sea fuse block that has 6 constant terminals that will get power when the truck is off and 6 terminals that come on with the ignition. Now my only issue is all 12 are constant. Why? Does anyone know why this is happening?

 

Power for the second set of fuse terminals has to come from an ignition only source or a high amp relay that triggers with ignition on. The fuse block has two separate positive busses but it’s up to you to supply them with different or same source.

 

Thanks for the info. I brought them both off the battery. So you’re saying I need to wire a high amp relay for the 6 that are only supposed to be powered when the truck is running? How high would you suggest?

 

Enough to cover all the circuits you plan to run simultaneously on that side. I don’t know if that panel is rated 100A per buss or for the entire panel. If it only has 1 ground buss for both sides then I’d suspect 100A total.

 

Just looked it up, 30A per circuit and 100A total. If you pull power from your existing 100A breaker to supply the high current relay your panel will be protected. If you just add another breaker you could fry the panel without tripping either breaker.

 

Thanks a lot i’m going to look into this. Appreciate it.

 

Amazon had a used 80A panel mount breaker used for $11, I took a chance. How would one go about safely testing it?

 

Good question. Connect your cables to it, put on some gloves and goggles and short the battery with it? If it doesn’t immediately trip don’t use it.
Connect known amp draw accessories one by one until you exceed 80A by a bit and see if it trips. If it trips early it’s weak, if it trips late or not at all then it’s not safe.

 

So the positive trigger source would be something that is powered when the car is started. Making it a sort of ignition trigger. What would you tap or run that wire to in order to make it work how I’d like?

 

To keep that trigger wire short and entirely in the engine bay I'd use an add-a-fuse from one of the fuses in the stock engine bay fuse box. That provides a fuse for the trigger wire and avoids tapping/splicing any stock wires.

 

Any recommendations on which fuse.

 

Imma 2nd gen base model so I’d hesitate to say with any certainty since you have many that I don’t but you can try the fogs or the A/C fuse. Anything that works without the key won’t do(headlights, horn, dome, stop, hazard, etc.) and I’d avoid anything directly related to the computers and if you can’t identify it then avoid it. If you can’t find anything not hot that you don’t want to risk then if you ground your switch leds to the dash ground or inside the cab you won’t need the sixth wire tacozord used and could repurpose that to tap from the in cab panel, some of those are ignition hot fuses, such as ACC, but again ymmv.

The important thing to remember is that fuse taps have a proper orientation and if they are installed backwards or with the fuses in the wrong positions you won’t be properly protected. To check which slot is for the added fuse use only one slot at a time and see which slot provides power to the wire. You may have to reverse the fuse tap in the oem slot but this will tell you which orientation is correct. With power to the wire through the added fuse you can replace the oem fuse and it will all be correct. This orientation is important because while both circuits will function with the tap backwards the 2 fuses will be in series rather than in parallel and puts extra load on the stock fuse.

 

Did the OE thing.

Made some small mods to it. I'm definitely going to re-route the positive wire from the CB to the fuse block so it doesn't come up through a grounded slot with 90-deg cut edges. In the interim, I added an extra layer of thick marine heat-shrink to it. I also added an MRBF terminal and fuse right at the battery because 6GA wire direct to the battery gives me the heebie-jeebies. Extra insurance. Yes, I'm a little OCD about this stuff after seeing expensive rigs burn to the ground because of shitty wiring.

Small mods:

- Added extra layer of marine heat shrink insulation to positive lead from CB to fuse block where it passes up through slot

- Added SDHQ battery terminal kit (P/N SHDQ-02-3003-T2)

- Clipped off OEM main ground and body ground wires where they terminate together at battery terminal. Replaced main ground connection with SDHQ lug and heat shrink and replaced body ground with 1' 6GA marine lead with 5/16" lugs

- Added Blue Sea Systems terminal MRBF fuse block (P/N 5191) to battery positive side

- Added Blue Sea Systems 40A terminal MRBF fuse (P/N 310811) at battery for positive lead to OE CB. Scale up as load goes up

- Added 1/16" Trim-Lok neoprene insulation (P/N X2008-25) to sides of slots. I (LOL) had to buy 25' as the shortest length. Want some? Send me a mailer and I'll give ya 4 1' chunks for your OE mount. If you're in the SF bay area, you can just swing by to pick it up. PM me.

- Used marine heat shrink #10 (3.5-5.0) ring terminals to connect accessories to fuse block

- Added split wire conduit over brake controller wiring where it's super close to OE bracket. This part still bugs me and it'll be something I'll fix next time the OE mount comes out. Just keeping an eye on it for now

- Marked bolts with Viz-Torque <<< this stuff pays off, big time

Love the fit and component quality with this OE kit. John at OE is also super-responsive to email.

Wiring schematic so far (solar stuff is upcoming when I get Cascadia 4x4 goodies). I tried to keep it mostly in sync with the actual physical layout and paths, but had to take some liberties to also keep it readable (wiring shown to the left of the block actually goes down the driver's side because it crosses under the block). Personal choice on my part to not use the fender side terminals until I need to because of how tight the space is to the fender. Trying to keep wire radius low. Fuses on that side are just a convenient place to store spares.

v2.0 with SDHQ battery terminals and re-terminated OEM grounds. Edited my list of mods above.




Tips on the SDHQ terminals: They come with anti-seize grease (kudos to SDHQ -- nice). Use it on every threaded fastener unless you want a lesson in galvanic welding; (stainless + aluminum = let's mate forever). You're also going to need to really torque the shit out of the shoulder nuts that clamp them to the battery. I mean, "oh god, should I use this much?" torque. Bounce around for ~100 miles and check them again.