ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

One more thing regarding installing rear leaf springs. Get everything bolted back together, but don't torque to spec just yet.

Set everything back down on the tires and maybe give a few bounces up and down at the rear bumper. Or jack up one side of the rear axle as far as possible and then let it relax. Then do the other side.

After that, go around and torque everything to spec and put a paint pen mark on each nut as you go so you know you got everything.

The front UCA bolts were not that difficult on my truck as I just put some rubber hose chunks over the jaws of my big channel locks and just reefed the sheet metal back to clear the bolt heads. There are a few electrical connections on the driver's side that need popped out of the way first.

 

Thanks All Decided to skip the AAL and just go with an ARB OME Dakkar. The rears are done just need to torque everything then on to the fronts.

 

Does ADS do custom valving like Accutuned does for King/Fox? If so, how much do they charge?
I suppose i can call to, but figured you guys may already have the answer.

 

Hey guys so after delays for a birthday party we’re almost done with the passenger side. Quick question. How do I mount the reservoir bracket or maybe a better question how did you all mount the Resi’s?

 

Mounts against the frame between it and the sway bar relocate. The angle is pointed back toward the control arm. Resi mounts to bracket using worm clamps in the recesses on the bracket arm.

 

Im removing the sway bar for now as I didn’t account for the relocate. Does it lay flush to the Frame with self tapping screws? Ugh. I’m almost done and this has me stumped af. Pics?

 

uses the bolts that held the sway bar on!

 

So my kit was open box for the camburg UCAS and it was missing one cap and both o rings. Is it cool to drive it for a few days without them until camburg can send them to me. Also. This shit is almost done and I’ve decided I suck at wrenching in my ride.

 

are you talking about the ball joint caps? if so, you’re fine.

 

I ditched my sway bar. I'm running 250lbs in front , 700lb coils. Couldn't be happier

 

exactly. The only thing left to do is grease them up at the zerks. How much should I put into each one?

as far as the lift I didn’t measure stock (I know noob move) but Noe that were done the rears are at 40” and the fronts are at 37”. We didn’t have a spanner to adjust so it is what it is. I’ll probably just head over to a buddys and do it this week. How much can I expect the rear to settle? Also I really appreciate all the help from everyone and the PM’s while I was in the middle of it. It helped a lot. I also plan on going through and retorquing in a week as suggested.

 

Oh yeah. And now I really need new shoes cause it looks like I skipped leg day. Any suggestions with the caveat of remembering I just spent all my money on this damned suspension.

 

Just FYI, I'll be posting up a inexpensive (but excellent condition) set of 17" wheels this afternoon

 

I feel like a dog in heat waiting for ADS to open back up after hammers.

awaiting word on my front bypass shocks!!

 

same. they got my rears out quick but i’ve been waiting 4 weeks so far for the front.

 

Does anyone know how Accutune could possibly improve the valving for a truck if the correct coil and ADS’s awesome valving already exist? I’m trying to understand how one could justify the price of revalving (plus shipping). Mine seems great, but curious still.

 

At the end of the day every truck is different. Different weight, different tires size, sidewall spring rate, different use and different driver expectations.

what works perfectly in my truck for me will be different than what works in my truck for you.

so if ads puts in what they believe is the perfect valving for how they perceive... let’s say overlanding... and you drive the truck and maybe you think it’s too stiff at speed or too wallowing at slow speed or the trails you hit have lots of wash outs and it’s a concern.

you take those concerns to the tuner and when they get your shocks and open them, they see what’s inside (or often they will already know since every tuner has his signature or typical standard use style) and then they change individual shims on that stack to adjust what you want different

 

What spanners are you guys using for adjustment? I currently have a 5/6" punch type. Would like a wrench type if anyone can suggest a good one!

 

LOL spanner? We don't need no stinking spammer .I just used a 5/16 center punch from harber freight