Exhaust Reroute

All I know is the dealer I take my truck to assured me if the cut was done after the cat that if the actual cat failed they would cover it (just nothing after the cut area). However you make a good point that the "stock" part would not necessarily fit there. I would think toyota would still cover the part but not the labor to get it installed with a reroute.
Honestly I hope my cats don't fail under warranty, that would be surprising... Also I figured if worst comes to worst an exhaust shop could basically undo the reroute for about the same as it cost to do it and then the toyota piece could fit back on like stock. Not that this is a great option but an option nonetheless.

 

Thanks, it is good to know there is at least a little consensus about this among dealers out there. I had preferred the behind the actuator re-route path (seemed like heat would be less of an issue) but one advantage of the "tuck" in front of the T-case is it looks like the Y can remain unchanged and a new part could be directly installed if ever needed.

 

For sure, I was in the same boat but the shop I took mine too has done these before and they said the "tuck" approach is really difficult to execute properly without something touching and causing rattle either at the heat shields or at the skid plate. The gap is so so small that they talked me out of it.

The other thing I thought about is the behind the actuator method seems to be the more popular option so there's more data on whether or not it works well. I haven't seen anyone complain about this option yet.

 

Any recommendations for shops to have this done in the greater Phoenix metro area?

 

Do you have any recommendations on shops? I’m also in Nova and am unsure how to even figure out where does a good job. While I’d prefer the $60, quality is more important.

 

Robert's Exhaust in Stafford or Hi-Flo Customs in Manassas are two I've heard recommended. I ended up going with a URD Y pipe which routes the pipe under the transmission. You want to make sure you get SST (vs aluminized steel) and mandrel bent turns, which account for the higher cost

 

I went to Robert's in Stafford. The pics of their job is in this thread somewhere.

 

Good timing on bumping this thread, I needed a reminder to get this done before my rear skid.

 

Any leads on who can do a Stainless Steel reroute in the Houston, TX area ? Been calling around and no luck yet.

 

just finished mine up. did it a little differently than what I've seen on this thread but I'm super happy with all the clearances, all mandrel bent 304SS, I made it so it's a "bolt-in" to the manifold and factory Y pipe.
I made sure to keep the pipe far away from both the u joints and the "extendy" portion of the front driveshaft boot, while also making sure it wont get in the way of draining the trans.

 

Just as an fyi: the straighter the exhaust pipe, the less turbulent the exhaust fumes are meaning the fumes travel quicker out so the pipe is not rerouted because of performance reasons

 

Looks good, how much clearance is there for the front drive shaft above the pipe? Enough space for maximum downward extension of the front suspension?

 

I didn't measure, but somewhere around 1.5-2" to the driveshaft.
since it's still IFS, the front driveshaft movement is minimal (basically none only based on bushing compliance of the engine/diff)

 

Update on my reroute, finally installed some RCI Offroad aluminum skids. Cleared the exhaust beautifully!
I did wait a couple months between doing the reroute and installing the skids, so the wrap got pretty chewed up. Had to rewrap it, which was kind of a pain in the ass. Hopefully the fiberglass itching will stop soon...

 

The answer is probably somewhere in the many pages of this old-ass thread, but I'm going to ask because I'm lazy. What the hell happened with the taillight?

 

Don't know if it counts, since I have a 2wd, but I just installed my AFE Ypipes.
Came from URD's Ypipes, and clearance is much better.

 

Hi everyone!

I have installed the AFE catted Y-pipe and as if I didn't know, lol, life is never without problems. This was a quality y-pipe but on occasion, I am hearing a knocking sound from the drivers side. I believe this to be either a leak or a bad cat. I will probably call AFE and see if they will send me a replacement. Has anyone got ay opinions as to the noise? It seems worse at startup and then once in awhile when hot. It sounds like a loose nut rattling around instead the cat. I am wondering what everyone thinks and whether the reroute itself is causing the noise. When I removed that silly Toyota y-pipe it was interesting to say the least. Does the simple reroute cause the noise especially with a motor that makes all kinds of crazy noises to begin with. I just wish it was a diesel rather than just sounding like one. PS, I used those crush gaskets instead of actual flange gaskets that I have always used. In other words just like the factory crush gaskets. Thanks everyone!

 

So I’ve been reading this thread and seems like there’s a lot of variants of this mod but I am still unsure the absolute best way to do this to prevent issues to the t-case and actuator and to prevent codes (which seem uncommon but have happened).

So is it better to tuck it up closer to the t-case and add heat shielding or better to go around and closer to the actuator with heat shielding? Does it matter?

 

I prefer the tuck method

 

The AFE pipes catted or not accomplish a perfect reroute. I, unfortunately ended up with a defective aftercat, but shit always happens to me though!