OEM Audio Plus Reviews

I didn't have the JBL system in mine, crappy base stereo.

OEM audio plus just released there first beta test systems to first users with JBL systems check out there FB and instagrams or website. I'm sure this one is gonna be great as well.

i think there are some youtube videos of guys opinions of JBL versus OEMaudio + (upgraded from current base stereo tacoma)

 

waiting for a Sale or discount code.
Hate paying Retail unless I'm in dire need of it.

 

with you @pochoboy, send updates if you happen to catch any and i'll do the same

 

I'm looking at the 450Q for my Access Cab, and I'm curious about the Sub Amp option. The video doesn't seem to show it (only the DSP under the drier's seat) from the voice over. Looks like it is another $350 or so, so was surprised it wasn't mentioned in the video and their audio site doesn't list anything about it in the specs or images.

If anyone here has added that, does the separate sub amp help much? What made you get it and would you buy it again?

 

The dedicated subAmp is another $299, on their website do your build and you can see how much it costs for upgrades. Also go YouTube Jesse Rizo, he has a video installing the dedicated subAmp after his Reference install in his 2018 Taco. He also gives his opinion and his cousins opine on the system with the dedicaded sub amp

edit: here's Rizo's dedicated amp install: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQyxkzAiy1E

 

Wow, I didn’t have to go find it. You rock! Thanks!

 

DJ, I have the Reference 500 in my non-JBL access cab with the dedicated sub amp. I ordered the sub amp at the same time as the rest of the system. It came already mounted to the amp rack. The bass is a bit lacking IMHO, and I'm not a bass head. Can't image what it would be w/out the dedicated amp. The sub volume knob that only comes with the dedicated amp is very useful. The instructions and videos are outdated. In some cases you need to watch the double cab video/video addendum. Make sure you specify you have a 2020 or later head unit as the connectors are different.

If you have automatic climate control, the tube that runs to the ambient temp sensor will be right in the way when you fish the connectors up to the head unit so be aware of that. Look at other threads on here for tips on taking apart the interior, have spare panel clips on hand (especially the cheap red ones used in the back). Since you have an AC, pay close attention to wudbuchr's detailed writeup at post #9 here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-access-cab-rear-door-panel-removal.433834/#post-24767757. He points out key things the FSM does not when putting AC door panels back on. For the front doors you don't have have to disconnect the door handle cables--many have locked themselves out. The handle and cables can be easily removed from the door panel intact.

And of course once you have the door panels off, seat unbolted, etc. take the time to sound deaden. Many threads on that.

Finally, attached-and at risk of being beat up by the internet-is the feedback I sent OEM+. Never got any response. While it's a good system, there are issues that shouldn't exist at this price point.

 

I recognize that review from their site @Homiec. I admit I'm still undecided on this setup. I do like that this is a one and done kinda kit, plug and play, etc. That said, It also means I have to save up and spend all at once, too. I have done my own systems in the past, so I'm not opposed to building my own; but the lack of space here makes their sub quite compelling. However I just finished reading that Bussman relay howto, so wiring it all and making my own clean harness and cable connectors doesn't actually feel as daunting either.

And totally plan on sound deadening while I have it apart. It'd be a huge waste not to.

 

Thank you for your response and feedback of the system.

I'm not a Bass hungry guy although I do appreciate deep lows like a ht 12" sub listening to movies, there are some tracks that one feel it in your body. I'm not looking to rattle windows/doors/etc. but was wondering the sound quality at low to mid level output from the OEM 500 w/dedicated sub amp? Does it do well at those levels as iirc some speakers are built for loud level and won't shine until it gets the power,etc. from what I'm told

 

If you're looking for solid bump at lower volumes, this isn't what you want. It may be a physics issue as a 8" speaker can only do so much. OEM+ should have used the Stealthbox JL Audio makes for ACs. It's a 10" sub, mounts in the same spot, and has carpeting on the exterior--not some poorly applied, cheap-ass paint (like our trucks). They would have saved a lot of R&D costs and could have used that savings to reduce the blatant cost cutting on some parts of their system. All they'd have to do is attach the same pigtail to plug into their sub harness and tweak the DSP tune.

DC bros have it better as there's a dual sub option.

Do I hate the system? No. But do I think the hardware quality and sound quality are commensurate with the purchase price? Nope.

 

thanks for the feedback. hmmmmmm I'm wondering if one could alter the OEM Audio sub box to fit a shallow 10" woofer? I like the idea that the system is dsp tuned and wiring is practically plug n play. "sigh" I'm not looking to rattle things but look'n for low to mid level output sound with deep bass. That be heaven for me

I don't trust Audio Shops around my vacinity, seen some reviews of hack jobs by some. Wish we had one of those 5Star Car Audio Shop in our neck of the woods

 

I appreciate all the honest feedback about their systems. I too am on the fence about splurging for their whole system for my 11 DC. It is a lot of money for 5 speakers and a couple of amps. But I realize I'd also be paying for the DSP work, wirings, brackets and such. I'm not opposed to it. I like the convenience that it seems to provide, but I REALLY would like to hear the setup before actually pulling the trigger. I've already started sound deadening my DC. I've just about finished the doors. That alone has made a significant improvement in SQ. I still have to laugh though when I think about how small those factory magnets are on the stock speakers.....

 

I'm going to inquire OEM Audio if I could purchase the dsp Amp/dedicated amp setup without the sub as I'd want to get the 10" JL stealthbox. If they don't cave, maybe I'll go with kicker key amps and the Stealthbox. LOL, I can Dream

 

This system is impressive for only 320 watts RMS 160 going to the 4 door speakers and tweeters and 160 going to the 8 inch sub. It will shake the rearview quite a bit in certain songs frequency. I always hardwire my phone through USB cable, Bluetooth sound quality isn't for me. Radio sound quality is decent on HD radio stations. Tune and set your phone audio player EQ settings just right especially Spotify you can tweak and fine tune it and thats my personal favorite way to play music through OEM audio plus at volume 45-50 is amazing. CD's sound great as well too obviously.

I would love to try the dedicated amp or dual sub option but I am content and happy at the moment.

I did and do recommend install some sound deadening sticky matting.

 

OEM Audio Plus 500Q single sub, Dedicated Sub Amp, Pioneer WC6600, and SoundSkins Pro matting both on the outer skin and inner skin of all 4 doors. I listen to everything in the book from Country, Rock, Hip hop and back. It is dirt simple to install, clean with all connections already cut to length, and amps tuned to the vehicle. I'm very happy with my choices. I did this in stages, adding the OEM 500Q system to the stock premium head unit. Then I added the WC6600, then the dedicated sub amp and finally added the SoundSkins audio mat. It becomes a labor of love, as I always listen to music whenever I am in my truck. By itself, the OEM 500Q system will make your stock Entune Premium system 1000 fold better. The rest is becomes your personal goals to make your sound perfect for your own preference.

 

As a secondary input, I bought the OEM Audio Plus during the initial stages, with the DSP that had the large purple all in one connector. The current sub amp add on is PLUG AND PLAY with the my original DSP amp. All the connections exist in the oem audio plus harness. Literally, the only thing I had to add was a ground wire to the new dedicated amp.

 

Nice! I received my OEM Audio Plus system last Thursday. I can't wait to get it install.

 

I just did the install over the weekend, ran into a couple issues but got it done. Interested in how you did and what you think. I do have the JBL system upgrade

 

I love their sub box, Id like to have just the box itself to replace with a JL sub and run more power to it. They wouldnt sell just the sub box as i inquired about that. I love the fit and that nothing needs to be cut except a small hole for the connecting cable

 

I will say that if you are running the single sub, it works ok of the DSP amp, but it really comes to life when you add the dedicated amp for the sub. I was debating adding he second sub, but I'm getting more than enough base out of the single sub with dedicated amp.