6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

Good idea heat shielding the fluid line!

 

The previous hydro setup (when it wasn’t leaking) seemed to do weird things when it got hot as well. Hopefully this will help prevent that.

The OE line on the 3rd gen is also wrapped with some very similar heat rejection stuff. So, Toyota obviously knows that this line needs some protection. Even with the OE components.

 

Idiot alert: Why does the Tilton hydraulic release bearing have two lines?

 

One end is where the bleed screw is and exits the transmission housing so it's accessible.

 

Makes total sense. Thanks!

 

How’s the awesome build going?

 

Going quite well. Transfer case went in last night. Propeller shafts, exhaust, etc go in tomorrow. I hadn’t posted much about that here since it’s not really related to the clutch stuff.

As for the clutch stuff, I have been working behind the scenes. I’d forgotten to order a couple of bushings for the pedal, so, those are due in tomorrow. That’ll hopefully be all of the parts that I need for under the dash. The wife has the day off tomorrow as well, so, she will be recruited to help bleed the system. Once that’s done, fingers crossed, it’ll be time for a test drive.

 

Good idea hard mounting the bleed fitting!

 

Thanks.

That worked out really well actually. The bleed line from the bearing came out to the perfect length. The pressure line did too, now that I think about it.

 

Hey! I said; No more plastic shit!


The old and the new.


My idea for an adjustable pedal stop.


Clevis pictured with one of the newer plasticy ones. Was just figuring how much longer the new one needed to be. Turns out, an inch. Seems like everything is just an inch off with this whole thing.



Found an 8x1.25 coupler at the local hardware store. It’s a hair short at 22mm. But, it’ll do the trick. I ran a long bolt up through the both of them before welding to make sure it all lined up nicely.



Ready to weld.


The chrome-esque coating on the clevis was very un-fond of welding temperatures. I had to knock it all off with an abrasive disc. I would’ve liked to have it coated again, But, I need this truck back on the road. So, a dousing of fluid film will have to do.


Here’s the new no-B.S. clevis installed on the new pedal. Then, pedal installed. FJ pedal fits with zero drama. New bushings everywhere obviously. I have my pedal adjusted to be even with the brake pedal. To achieve that, I backed the cruise cancel switch up at the top of the pedal all the way out. Then I removed the locknut. Then I threaded the switch back in and used the locknut on the underside. I then made pedal height adjustment to where I want it. Don’t forget to reconnect the wire when done.




Pedal stop.

 

This video was taken before I’d set the pedal stop. It does not need to stroke this far to disengage.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLQVYkZpkPu/

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLQWDI6pRBL/


Here’s what it looks like in action

 

Did you end up changing master cylinder size ? What is that pedal out of ?

 

Stock master. Pedal is from FjCruiser. I’ll fill in the blanks later. Wifey made margaritas. Pollo asado tacos tonight.

 

Oof

 

This is Tilton’s video for setting up their HRB. Watch and understand. This is a very important step!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X2JAoHhy0A

If you’ve been following this thread, you’ll recognize when I did the measuring and such. Pay close attention to the back end of the video where they discuss setting the pedal stop. I did that part yesterday and was quite pleasantly surprised at how little stroke the clutch actually needs to disengage. So, do not skip this setting. For that reason, I’m going to say that the FJ pedal should be mandatory for any sort of HRB setup. It’ll work for second as well as third gen trucks.

Another note. The clutch switch at the bottom of the pedal’s stroke is now not being contacted by the pedal because of the stop bolt. So, that will need an adjustment. I’ve just been using the bypass switch on the dash until then.

Edit:

I’ve learned this morning that the maximum allowable adjustment at this switch is insufficient. I’m going to need to extend the switch bumper on the back of the pedal.

 

Did you add that pedal stop bracket to the FJ pedal or does it come that way ?

 

It comes with a hole there. There’s a plastic bumper that is supposed to go there. But, not this time. I could tack weld one of the nuts in place to make adjustment a little easier. But, it’s really not necessary.

 

What’s the main reason for the pedal swap, because of the tilton bearing, or did you want to also rid yourself of the dreaded pedal squeak of the taco (and this the swap also alleviate that noise?)

 

I want it to feel like a solid pedal. I don’t need all the plastic stuff in there muddying the feel. Even with the updated TSB parts I had the pedal squeak too. It did it mostly when it was cold outside. And, yes. I needed an easy way to incorporate a pedal stop.

It feels great now. No weird noises. We’ll see for how long. I just installed it yesterday.