Ontario BS Thread

Just one for me.....been busy

 

aww i should have done a detour to pick that up had i check Tworld on my day trip today
(old photo) but my coleman would have loved to try some OEM Fuel

Dude i'm envious... That looks like so much fun to bomb through

I've not had one since i was a kid, i was talking about Beavertails to a few buddies of mine in the states and had an urge to get one since i talked to em. Went up to Collingwood for a package and found one that was surprisingly open (i think only 2 are open in Ontario). Greatest thing since sliced bread

Beaver Tails. A magical place in the far far distant north of Collingwood

It only works in the Mother Land

baptise it in alcohol!

So approach angle of a Hummer H1?

Advertise like shameless whore!
Looks like ill be able to get use of this soon for special package

 

Hey guys, I test fitted my new wheels today and as expected I need to work on the pinch weld, and maybe the cab mount. So I started to remove the fender liner but I couldn't get the orange clip in the front out. Have any of you removed your fender liners? Any trick to it? Googled for instructions but didn't find anything helpful.

Thanks.

 

To sum up my symptoms, she pulls to the left almost always. Going faster makes it worse, and slowing down makes the steering wheel turn in the direction of the pull.

The before and after were after I swapped leaf springs.
Below 100, the steering wheel is a little off centre, meaning I must steer to the right slightly (maybe 12:15) to keep in my lane. If I hold the wheel straight, I cross the centre line within a couple car lengths. Above 100 the truck is a little twitchy, but moreso it feels unsettled....like I’m forever correcting. It also requires increased steering to the right (perhaps 1:00) as compared to below 80 km/h.
When braking, the steering wheel is pulled to the left, not fighting me, but a constant pressure. If I let go, the steering wheel rotates visibly. No shakes/shimmy/noises under braking.

The only shimmy I get is from snow buildup in the rims.

OEM rims. One is bent, the rear right, and it was bent at the time of my alignment. I found that out shortly therafter my alignment when my tire guy said “Hey buddy, you gotta bent rim eh...did you know it was bent?” I’m going to fix (replace with another oem) tomorrow. I think the bent rim threw off all the measurements, but that’s only my best guess.

I serviced the hubs, rims and brakes recently.

When driving on low traction surfaces, I hardly notice any symptoms. It was once I hit the dry concrete of 410/401 that I was truly concerned. I thought it was the road crown or westerly cross wind causing my grief since I rarely take dry paved roads.

Thanks for your inquiries @3JOH22A

 

Most alignment machines clamp a laser reflector on each wheel. The technician rolls the vehicle fore and aft, then the machine does some triangulation with the reflectors to calculate the angles. If the wheel is bent and isn't spinning true, then it'll throw off the measurements. You should get the bent wheel fixed before going for an alignment again. If your spare is the same outer dia. and offset as the running wheels, you can put that on temporarily for the alignment too.

 

@3JOH22A High five

Agreed, tire tomorrow, alignment tuesday. I’ve been meaning to swap out the bent rim for 1 of 4 spares since I got the news. I just have to swap out the old LTX for my Duratrac.

I’d better confirm the backspacing is identical on my donor rim.

 

i never removed my inner liner all the way, i just removed from the backside to the top and folder it/ pushed it aside.
afterwards beat the pinch weld into place and then used a heat gun to re-set the plastic in it's new location

 

Damn, I just passed by on the highway

 

I don't think my situation will be the same as anyone hear on account of the body lift, but this is my advise anyway

Forget about saving clips, just pull those inner fender liners off and deal with them later with self tapping screws and flat washers, they don't have to be big

if you need to "relocate the pinch weld" don't bother cutting just use a big hammer and get to town its easy to do and easily moved

use a small grinder cut off wheel and trim the back of the fender, the fender flare and the fender liner

if you have to do a cab mount chop go ahead and do it, don't bother trying to plate it right away you might need to cut more or you might want to replace the whole thing in the future.

Good luck with it if your having trouble cutting into your truck remember its just plastic and metal.....

 

DO NOT CUT THE PINCH WELD. I used a hobby knife to cut back parts of the wheel well liner (ended up cutting around where the OEM Mud flap mounts to and one of the clips that hold the liner in place to allow me to flatten it/ shift it over.) but the majority of the work was thanks to a heat gun, waterbottle with a hole in the top to squeeze water out of, and something wide to push against the plastic to remold it

@cwisema here is a "guide"/ overlook to knocking over the pinch weld;
https://youtu.be/LdpHCZTV6o8?t=106

 

Thanks @Shveet, I have seen that video before. In all the videos I've seen they cut the liner out. I want to keep it so cutting it is out. I'll try just pulling the back side out and folding it forward while working on it. Hopefully it will go back nicely. I know I'll have to do some heat gun manipulation but I'll try to keep it neat.

@Windigo, the clip that won't let go is inside the bumper. It looks like it connects the liner and the bumper to a support inside. I'm open to using some screws and washers if I have to, but I'd like to keep it looking as factory as possible.

 

I also forgot to mention I'm really old.

 

@llamasmurf Just got word that a house on Norwood sold for 442k, 137k over asking price.

I think you'll be able to afford that ute tray by the end of your house sale

 

That is why I am selling, the market is like lava right now.

Truck is at the back of the line for upgrades. It just got full suspension

 

Remove the grille and reach the clip from the back side?

 

Started the truck this morning....airbag light stayed on. Little bit of searching says there was a recall for the clock spring a few years ago. Anyone with any experience or insight on this?

 

just remember, if the house you sells for a lot. the house you buy might be over asking as well.
so the profit of selling wont be until you buy. Unless you just decide to live out of your truck for the year, or move in with the parents, then ignore anything i mention

 

Van down by the river comes to mind.