Long Travel BS Thread

From what I've seen online (mainly ranger & bronco forums) is that their 2 tube custom bypasses work really well with their kit so what would make triples not made specifically for the kit better?

 

More fine tuning.

 

A 2 tube bypass only give you a bump and catch zone. If you’re going to spend the money, get at least a 3 tube so you gain another compression zone for tuning.

 

@DanaPtTaco check out this truck - it sounds nearly the same as your idea for your build. @chasecamper is down by you but I don’t know how often he’s on here after selling his truck.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2011-tacoma-long-travel-prerunner.651964/#post-23446990

 

That makes sense, i guess my thought process was just that Giant recommends those shocks with their kit and so I assumed that for someone who isn't as experienced and knowledgable in LT (me) it would make it more simple to build the rear end and get it "perfected" by using bypasses made specifically for that kit.

I've checked his build before (seen it in person as well) and my plan is definitely similar (Funny enough looks like he had double bypasses in the rear). I've checked out his and other people's builds for inspiration and info on all the different kits out there.

 

if your gunna get different bypasses get em with an overlapping style layout not the normal style they normally do. overlapping setups work soo much damn better...valve for a mean bump zone and have a nice soft ride height for the chatter.....it really is the way to go.

 

How hard is it to rebuild a set of bypasses? Have a set of 2.5 3 tube bypasses that has a small leak and ordering stuff from kartek and debating ordering a rebuild kit to do myself or just drop them off to be done.

https://www.kartek.com/parts/fox-25...it-for-78-shaft-with-piggyback-reservoir.html

also anyone have a part number for the rod end he I’m that’s needed for 2.5 foxes?

 

This video pretty much tells you all you need to know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRaOceJt12U&t=4s
The only difference with bypasses is that you need to fill it with oil above the bypass tubes holes inside and put your hand or cardboard over the open end and rotate the whole shock 180 degrees a few times to get the air out of the bypass tubes. I just did a set of 16 inch triples...took me about 3 hours to get them all done.

 

Rebuilding shock is pretty easy, only a pain if they have been neglected for a long long time and things are seized, or if the nitrogen has gotten into the oil past the internal floating piston in the reservoir.

Might be a little tricky the 1st time around as you're figuring out how to do it but its something everyone should learn as its a big part of maintenance on a prerunner.

Depending on your shock manufacturer you'll prob need a spanner wrench for the dust cap.
Other than that it's basic hand tools and dental picks you can get at harbor freight for cheap.
Oh and Aluminum shaft jaws are a cheap good investment.

If you have fox shocks you should get a nice set of 90 degree snap ring pliers like snap-on for Fox's gnar snap rings.

If you're a baller and make more per hour than people charge for rebuilds you could pay a shock guy to do it for you and support their business.

 

How much oil did you use?

 

Almost a whole gallon and I didnt spill much.

 

X2 on @Airdog post
I used Ben's video to rebuild my OEM CO's and Smoothies in the fall of 19'. He is pretty detailed in his explanations in what to look for and expect.
I put together an all-thread tool for pushing/pulling the IFP when bleeding air out of the res. Also bought a cheap schrader valve tool. Then built a Nitrogen rig with a "no loss chuck", instead of buying one of the more expensive ones on line. With the small bottle I can extend the shocks to full droop while still on the truck and check my pressures periodically.

 

You can get them a little cheaper here

https://www.shockseals.com/collecti...-3-0-seal-kit-w-875-shaft-2-5-resi-pb-ibp-ebp

 

Thanks. Had that site saved but couldn’t find it

 

what’s the length? Do you have a picture? My guess is it’s a standard length Fox eyelet. Part #: 213-01-235-A

 

You’ll need at least a gallon. Shouldn’t need more unless you spill a decent amount.

 

Part numbers don’t return to foxes website cause they’re older. 2.5x14 triples though.

 

The eyelet part # I gave you is correct. They’re 2.95” from eyelet center to top of the eyelet where the shaft enters. Their are different lengths if you need to change your ext/collapsed though. Why are you changing the eyelets?

The shock part # is 980-02-215. Doesn’t matter the age. You’re bearing cap probably has XXX-215-A on it I’m assuming?

 

Not changing the eyelet just need new heim/bearing for the ends as they’re a little loose already. I know it’s a 5/8s bore but haven’t had the time to undo the snap ring and pull it to measure the od. And google/fox/accutune just have fn ones but don’t say what they fit

 

FK makes them. They’re mostly universal to the big names. It’s a -10 heim. You don’t need to measure the OD.