Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Yeah I’d rather have an elocker than air

 

What’s wrong with Detroit? Would be my choice

 

On the street for a DD mechanical lockers especially the detroit are loud and in some conditions like rain it isn't always fun to have the rear locked essentially 99% of the time.

 

You can do a low profile truss and be about the same as a fabbed 9" housing. I believe also the ECGS one has thicker and bigger than stock tubes so that'll help with strength. Even with a fabbed 9 housing you may still want to extend that built in truss out further on the tubes. Links is also a whole different ball game as even with a fabbed 9 you may need more link separation for your geometry to work right and that may put you in the same boat as the 60. Once you start going that far there really isn't a generic answer for this axle will limit because it's x-bigger it's more about the suspension geometry than axle size.

 

I know what they do. You’re right about a DD but I thought we’re far away from that when talking full float F9

 

I'd DD a full float 9. I forgot that some may not do so in that case full send on the mechanical locker. I always forget the different climates and that sort of thing EC and 5-8 hr drive to hit some parks and about 1/2 the time are not fair weather wheeling trips if you gotta drive it not so fun.

 

This. Just having my 'Auto LSD' in the sport is awful for dailying. Trying to back into a parking spot is dumb even in slick conditions.

 

I’m no dd with my truck but it is my snow vehicle when we get hit which is where my hesitation for the full time locker comes in.

 

I think it's one of those things that's better to have it and not need it, than don't and do, with regards to being able to switch it on and off.

 

It unlocks if you coast around corners...

 

FWIW I drove on a grizzly and a Detroit daily for a few years each. They unlock pretty easily and I can’t say it was ever loud or unpredictable. Coasting around a corner does unlock it. You learn not to hit the gas hard on an ice patch. I also drove 4+ hours to wheel each time.

 

Been their done that . Eaton e locker is great but after a year of wheeling and sitting that electric wire harness can become a problem ,
ARB air locker never failed me , or my wheeling buddies , I think years ago Arb did have some issues

 

They still do from time to time with the seals.

 

Detroit lockers are the way to go, they are very DD friendly.

Personally I would just run a spool but I obviously look at things differently than your average taco guy.

And I’d take a 9” over a D60 any day as they are lighter, have a removable 3rd member (easy gear changes) easy to truss and can be built to be just as strong... there is a reason trophy trucks run them.

 

The real question is how much do I realistically need to budget for a trussed floating F9 + new brakes, locker, and matching hubs

 

$6k

 

the “auto LSD” is absolute garbage. You can’t fully turn the system off and even when you do, it turns back on when you go faster than 30mph. I can’t actually say it helped me off roading either.

Doing the ABS kill switch has by far been my best mod because it fully kills that system. I also that the ARB rear locker though so I can actually turn my locker on/off as I please. That is until the seals leaked.

 

in my truck you can just hold the trac button while in neutral at a full stop and it turns the system all the way off.

 

I'll have to try that. TRD Sport?

 

So I just jumped the shark and ordered my first set of 35's.
Ordered some Toyo AT3s in a 35/11.5/17 C load from DiscountTire togo on my FN FX Pros 0 offset.
I think I've just about got all my basescovered for a mall crawler.
Freedom Offroad UCA,OME 887 with 5100 Bilstiens for the front.
Dakar Medium leafpack, Ubolt flip and Bilstien 5125 in the back.
Superbumps on all 4 corners.
Already regeared my 6 speed to 4.30s and got a Trutrac in the dif.
I have a Pedal Commander on the way to help compensate for the extra inertia off the line.
Got an appointment to get my CMC but am having doubts on if I should get the Cabmount relocate instead($200 for CMC $750 for Relocate .
I do 99.9% of my driving on pavement so I'm hoping ill be fine with just an aggressive CMC.
Plan on pounding out my pinchweld flat and taking out the liners this weekend . I am coming to terms with knowing I will have to trim some of the front bumper.
Is there anything else I'm glossing over that I will need to do?
Thanks