6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

@megillet

What clutch do you plan to run?

 

Don’t know yet. Still on stock setup with 145k miles, so I’m not hard on clutches. Would like to get rid of the chirp, so maybe the stock 3rd gen setup is good for me?

 

I have not explored the idea of third gen release hardware in an RA trans. Hmmm.

Or, are you planning a RC62F swap?

 

So, I had this thing on hand. Did the trick. With the switch pulled all the way back, and this thing on the pedal, it is enough to push the switch. Not the perfect solution. But, functional.

 

You got me thinking of a RC62F swap...going to have this truck for another ten years so might as well change the parts I don’t like about it to something I will. I hate the short 6th gear, I still find myself shifting into 7th on the freeway (11 years and 145k miles, I should know by now it’s not there). Plus I think I’ll be driving longer trips in the future so the potential MPG difference would be appreciated. Not so much for saving money, but to have a longer range without adding fuel/weight.

 

ooh! I think we have a player here folks!

Are you a diy guy? I’m going to say that would be the best route. A shop is going to bang it out as fast as they can. I have little faith that the necessary details will be attended to in that scenario.

I’m honestly super happy with the new trans. To be perfectly fair, it’s only been a couple of days. But, the way I use this truck, so far, it’s fantastic.

No idea how mileage will be effected. I can tell you that it was pretty pitiful before. Like 12-13 mpg for in town driving. Highway on longer trips got me 15-16 mpg.

Time will tell how this changes things as far as mileage goes.

 

Honestly, if I decide to do this, 2021 will be planning and sourcing the transmission. Got a lot of home repairs I’m finishing and have planned and then hunting season so can’t afford to be without the truck. I can see taking a couple days in 2022 to knock this out....

 

Actually, I was thinking, I’m tentatively planning to hunt AZ Jan 2022.... maybe we could meet up and I could see the swap then... hmmmm.....

 

Definitely. If you're going to be in town, I'd be happy to let ya take it for a spin.

 

More info added to posts two and three of this thread.

 

What’s it been now, a week? So far so good. No funny noises with the exception of the Spec 3+ clutch making it’s break-in sounds. Pedal feels solid and the engagement point is consistent. No temp related weirdness either. I’m happy.

 

Dude, when can I pay you American dollars for one of these? My CM is still holding fluid (fingers crossed) but is still being as weird as ever.

Also, not sure why I stopped getting notifications about this thread....

 

So I decided to bleed my clutch masters hydro bearing over the weekend. The fluid came out black. Looked like used diesel oil.
The clutch feels a little better but still squeaks.

 

Just about everything can be ordered straight from Tilton. I’ve posted up everything that I used at the beginning of this thread.

If you use the same bearing I did, then you’ll need to make an adapter to make it work with the Tilton piston. I’d say that both parts should be in hand before you start that though.

What clutch are you running?

A bracket to hold the anti-rotation pin will also need to be made up. Super simple really. You’re staying with the RA transmission still I’m assuming.

 

Uh-ooooh. I bet that seal is about to die on you.

 

It's not a good sign.

 

Will, I hope not. Fingers crossed. Not ready for that project. Ill have to wait till a housing project is finished first.

 

I'm running a Spec stage 3+ on my stock tranny.

 

Reading your other posts and seeing your ingenuity your resourcefulness and your access to machinery, I suspect you came to the conclusion about the metal FJ cruiser pedal on your own, but part of me hopes that you somehow came across my endeavor to retrofit the FJ cruiser clutch pedal into a second gen Tacoma for the inspiration.



I welded a piece of scrap metal onto the FJ pedal to extend down to the MC and used a Honda Motorcycle rear brake MC clevis. I'm also using an FJ cruiser MC as they are cast instead of plastic like my OE one was. My clutch is rather heavy, I've been blaming this on having the urd stage 2 clutch and heavy flywheel, but I'm beginning to wonder if extending the pedal instead of extending the rod changed my fulcrum enough to require additional leg effort.

I also had to shorten and change some of the bends on the FJ pedal as well as I welded on extensions to reach the clutch start cancel and cruise control up switches, not too long ago I purchased a new OEM plastic pedal and was going to use it to make a jig and get another FJ pedal to make sure the contours matched as I'm not quite happy with my clutch pedal position.

Apparently new Tacoma MC's are cast.

I'm curious on your thoughts on the matter, if you've got the time I'd like to pick your brain about it and perhaps swap some pictures around shoot me a pm if you're willing.



One last question:

Have you figured out anyway to have a pilot bearing to support the other end of the input shaft?

I swear sometimes my input shaft/clutch disk feels like it's wallowing, could just be axle wrap perhaps but not having a pilot bearing in the crank to support the end if the input always bothered me.

 

Jake.. you're a mad man! I love it!