Anything welding

I honestly don't like my evolution saw. It too has a flimsy base and clamp, and is loud (I think I'm getting old). Then you add the cost of blades... Then again one of my first projects with my Hazard fraught bandsaw was a taller, sturdier stand for the bandsaw.

 

Halfway through reading I was thinking, then just build a new base.

 

I’ve built a few live edge tables. Take a look at this video for attachment options. The threaded inserts and slotted legs will let the table breathe throughout the year and prevent cracks and splits.

https://youtu.be/HJUpzZLklnI

 

Yeah, good decision. We built 8' grills on trailers, 4' and 2' Sq grills and used the band saw not very often. Only to cut "C" channel for the trailers. If you're cutting big stuff go for it. I'd rather wear out 20 porta band saw blades at ???$ a pop.
Zim

 

I'm with you. I used one , one time. Even with ear plugs, the noise was unbearable. I'll stick with my portable band saws.

 

Once I got all the excess noise out of the shop, I’m not trying to bring it back. But we also probably use our saws a lot more than the guys on here are planning to use there’s. So I guess a little noise every other month probably isn’t bad.

 

@Mojo Jojo
@cynicalrider

here’s the recovery points as they pass through the bumper.



There’s a lot “hidden” welds that I still need to burn. In that pic I welded the lower portion of the backside where the bumper mounting plates meet the skin of the bumper but not the rest. The only reason I welded the bottom was because I knew it’d be harder to get to once the shell of the bumper was added. I keep adding beads as I add more plate to places that I know I’ll be covering access to.

 

Dunno how loud the Evos are, but I do still use ear protection with the Klutch bench top band saw. It’s not bad but it’s not quiet either.

Biggest plus IMHO is quick/easy miter cuts, particularly since the 0° and 45° stops are easily trued up.

Haven’t had to replace the blade yet, but have a $15 spare sitting on the shelf.

 

if the stops work well, quick adjustability is nice, the saws I’ve used haven’t been as precise as I’d like, but I’ve never tried the klutch.

 

Thanks, that's a great pic, always wanted to see one of the recovery point from the backside. I also appreciate the description of your assembly methodology, something I keep running through my mind on how that is going to go, especially with my truck being a daily driver. Well, maybe once every 3 or 4 day driver thanks to Covid. Somehow I still have managed to rack up over 19k miles over the last 12 months....

 

The vice is fixed to the table, the saw assembly pivots between the stops. Each stop is an eccentric thick round metal piece, screw in the center. True up the blade against the vice with a machinist square then set the stop accordingly. Repeat for the other stop for 45°

 

There’s also a vertical table mod for this and similar saws thats on my to do list.

 

As I start to smooth out my welds I see a bunch of these little guys.


Divots where I didn’t build up the weld puddle enough. So I go back in and fill those spots:




a little more time with a flap disc and sander and I get the smooth finish I’m after:


The extra time here is purely cosmetic but will be an eyesore to me once the bumper is completed and coated. I fell like the attention to detail is what separates a good home built bumper from a “I can tell you built that” bumper.

 

Pretty common.

I cheat. I weld just the inside and then grind down the outside to get the look I want.

 

I'm assuming the "hidden" welds on the backside are done with the bumper off the truck. How do you manage distortion when it's not mounted to the frame?

 

I did the majority of the welding with the bumper mounted. Pro tip: I spaced out the mounting plates from the frame with some washers to mitigate any warping while welding. It’s hard enough to muscle a heavy ass bumper onto the truck by yourself let alone if the mounting plates warp to the point where they’re right against the frame.
The welds on the back side will all be stitch welded and I can bounce around the bumper enough to spread the heat out. With the front fully welded there should be little to no chance of warping.

 

I stitch the back of the bumper as well. Fully weld the recovery points/tow hitch, and fully weld the outside and blend.... unless the customer wants to keep the weld profile on the outside which saves time & money

 

I’m new to welding this thick of steel, and was also worried about warping. I thought about making a mounting plate for the bumper out of scrap that are left over, bolting the bumper to it and then work my way around welding. Would that help or would it just be a pain in the ass to get off if it still warped on the mounting plate?

 

A mounting plate will help with finish welding, but definitely take his advise on using thin washers between the frame and bumper when tacking everything together. I got some good tacks on my frame mounts and didn’t have any warping/fitment issues after fully welding.

 

Bog it in Brother

LOL
Zim