4wd problems

Mine has a set way of going in and out of 4lo. First is it has to be in 4hi. Not blinking, but fully in 4hi. Then clutch in and shifter in neutral, turn to 4lo and keep the clutch in until it goes in. Sometimes I have to switch it a couple of times to get it to go. There is an exact sequence required to get it into 4lo. I'm sure it's in the manual, but haven't read it. Do the same thing back to 4hi, then 2hi.

 

No, it doesn’t. I’ve replaced my actuator motor without even pulling the tcase.

 

How? it has a long shaft that passes through the tcase with snap rings.

 

Yes I remember that long shaft but it wasn’t an issue. It’s been 3 years so I don’t remember every detail, just that it took less than 30 minutes and only spilled a bit of gear oil. I don’t even think I took that shaft out, just the case

 

The ECM needs confirmation from the ADD limit switch for the 4wd request to be satisfied. It will not send a command to go to 4lo if the existing request is “pending”

 

Thanks. That’s what I wanted to know

 

For everyone else reading this, that shaft is the shift rod which the tcase actuator worm gear moves in or out. All the way in is 2wd and all the way out is 4lo (may have this backwards but you get the idea). So yeah, that doesn’t have to come out to swap the actuator. Just like the front ADD and factory elocker, the tcase can be shifted manually if you’re in a pinch on the trail

 

Yes, the shift shaft to the rear of the truck is 4LO, one position forward is 4HI, and all the way forward is 2HI

 

If you don't use it, you lose it. This is why they recommend driving 10 miles/month in 4X4 to keep moving parts lubricated and to prevent corrosion in electrical parts. Having a 4X4 fail to engage after not being used regularly is pretty common. And even the old school manually locking hubs and manual shift levers would fail if not used regularly.

About the only advantage to the old systems is that you could lock the hubs, but not shift into 4x4, and drive on the road without damage to the 4X4 system. Then you could shift into 4X4, but not lock the hubs, and drive on the road for a few miles with no fear of damage. With todays vehicles you have to seek out a dirt or gravel road to get in your 10 miles/month.

 

@TennesseeTaco - If it turns out to be the front ADD I have a fully functioning spare in my garage I need to get rid of. I deleted the whole thing and switched to an FJ transfer case and diff tube specifically to get away from those crappy actuators. They’re not hard to replace but they are expensive and failure-prone.

 

This was my understanding as well, and the way the FSM says.
But a long time ago on the forum a tech in Utah, I believe, posted that they were doing the T.case actuator replacement without splitting the case. Something though about having to be extra careful about the shift seal(s)? Wish I could find the post or someone would detail the process for a much needed sticky.

 

I think the issue is I've only done it customer pay, and because the actuator comes with the rod, I always change the rod.

 

Maybe you can save your customers some money next time