kicker key in a 2020 with 8" entune?

no. I checked and email metra and no reply. the only one that I heard works is the $75 t-tunes one which sucks because for $75 you can buy a decent Amazon sub! you only use the 10 pin the rest is junk or save it if you ever swap head units. don’t understand why Toyota had to change stuff around in 2020 and don’t understand why Metra won’t make one for me. bastards. the worlds best selling mid size with limited audio options.

 

I like to save money too $74 vs $34, though at times it bites back

hmm, if you only need the connectors I believe someone alluded some other part#'s for the 2020 in this thread. Mentioning it might be cheaper to get tt vs Metras? idk ah, if you back on post #22, Mr. (destin_meeks)

 

You only get two harnesses. One is the male end which plugs into the back of the headunit. The other is a female end which connects to your factory harness. Each one has like 12’ of wire on it (maybe more). The one that plugs into your headunit has an additional set of purple wires, which is for a sub. However, I cut that off and tapped into the front left and front right wires before the amp. The reason for this is because the rear speakers are underpowered in our trucks. Also, they only taped into one of the rear speakers, not both. I couldn’t tell you if using a rear tab would actually make a difference, or even if only a single speaker line (like they have with the purple) makes a difference. I went ahead and just tapped into both fronts to be safe.

 

And from everything I found when I had my 2020, metra doesn’t make a harness for the 2020+ (the one that only has the speaker lines like those headunits). So I used the burrito tunes. Lol.

Also, I get your point about saving the money and getting the 180 instead. It was only a $50 difference when I did mine before so I just paid the extra $50 and called it a day. That’s completely up to you.

As a note, it wouldn’t hurt to grab a box of sound deadening and do your doors since you’re replacing the speakers as well. I’ve heard it makes a huge difference in the Tacoma’s.

 

thank you for verifying what it is.

 

No problem. I’ll send y’all an invoice. Haha.

Good luck with your build!

 

I’m confused. If the plugs are just to go between the factory plug and the head unit, why would each half be 12’ if cord? Shouldn’t it just be like 3” on one side with a 12’ set of leads so you can wire in whatever? The cord set you described sounds like a head unit swap, not just to make a t-junction with a long lead.

Also, am I reading it correctly that you had to modify the TT harness anyway since it was driving the sub from a single rear speaker instead of both fronts?

 

I can’t say what it “should” be. I can only say what it actually is. I’m guessing they did they in case you wanted to put your amp in the back of the truck.

For the second question; yes and no. I’ve heard of people using the wire that’s already tapped into the rear for their subs and have not noticed any issues. I went ahead and tapped into my fronts on the harness because it took like 3 minutes to do. I’d rather do that than get everything installed and find I had an issue.

I think the main reason people go with that harness is because no one else makes one for the plug type on the 2020+. Not that I saw at least. I didn’t want to have to piece things together and I wanted the ability to be able to put my amp anywhere I wanted to.

Also, not sure what you mean by “headunit swap”. The harnesses allow you to put the amp inline between the headunit and the factory harness that WAS plugged into the headunit. There’s not really any actual need for a t harness on the 2020+ since the speaker wires are all in one plug.

 

I don’t mind piecing one together but I think you are right. I searched for hours and cannot find both required plugs. Even the Metra route has one half unavailable everywhere.

 

Yeah. I’m not even sure they make the actual connector needed at all. At least that’s what I was finding out.

I didn’t want to go through the trouble of ordering a bunch of stuff and it not being right, or having to rig something up, so I just got the harness for $74 and called it a day.

 

I watched the tt's video on their wiring kit, the Add an Amp kit 12' wiring are meant to connect to their amps which are mounted under the driver seat and they don't recommend xtending the wiring any further.

in my opine, tt Add a Sub wire kit is just a pass thru connection with the 19' spliced into a pair of speaker wires(rear?). The reason why I think one could cut the kits connector pass thru wiring in half and extend it, to ones amp.

the $74 Add an Amp kit works as you are proof of it.
I haven't read anyone doing it with the $34 Add a Sub wiring kit

it seems the 2020+ years are easier to do than the previous years as we're only working with one connector that has all the speaker wiring?

 

I remember reading somewhere that the $34 harness is the same thing but has like 18” leads instead of 12’. I can’t say for sure, but I remember seeing something like that.

 

I gave up and just emailed TT last night and asked. I have a feeling the answer will be the $74 kit, but the site doesn’t do much to clarify what the actual differences are.

if it is just the one connector to deal with I’m tempted to just cut it a few inches down from the head unit connector, and splice in my own connection and t-tap. Then again, I don’t plan on getting rid of this truck so not sure it’s worth the extra trouble.

There is always the option to just run new speaker wires from the amp like the old days.

 

the thing is don't expect any support as it states the wire kits are for "their" amps, they aren't going to answer questions on modifying their wire kits. lol that could take up a lot of their time trying to explain it to potential/after purchase customers.

they have their pnp kits but it's not as nicely put together like OEM Audio's

 

Agreed. Fortunately it’s only 5 sets of wires. One for each speaker in the truck and the extra one for the sub. Pretty straightforward. And they have a color code diagram on their website, but the the harness uses the typical white, gray, purple and green setup so the info isn’t really needed.

 

The $34 works fine. Buy a $20 roll of speed wire and you’ll have a cleaner and better install than their expensive kit will ever give you

 

Do what he said. He’s absolutely right. I was just lazy when I did that install. Lol. I’m not even sure if knew about the $34 option to be honest.

If I had to redo it, the $34 harness and speed wire would be the way I went.

 

In that case, let's try it and find out. I have ordered the $34 adapter from TT. Might I impose on you @destin_meeks to send me a link to this speed wire you are referring to?

At this point, here is what I have ordered:

• Subaru Tweeters
• $111 Kicker 46CSC6934 Kicker CS Series 150 Watt 6 x 9" Car Audio Coaxial Speaker Pair, Black
  Kicker 46CSC6934 (fronts)
• $77 Kicker 46CSC674 6.75" 6-3/4" 600w 4-Ohm Car Audio Coaxial Speakers CSC674
  Kicker 46CSC674 (rears)
• Kicker Key 200.4
• Whatever Crutchfield includes for the above
• TT Add-A-Sub Harness
• Siless Black 80 mil Sound Deadening (36 sq ft)
• Noico Roller to help apply the sound deadening

I didn't order the Kicker Hideaway yet (I'll make a separate thread for my questions around that), but do want to run the wires for it now while I have everything torn apart. I also am working on building the aux fuse box setup and plan on wiring the Key (and powered sub) to that.

I plan on making a YouTube video for the installation of all of this, so if there is anything you'd like me to specifically address, feel free to let me know. I'm obviously all ears when it comes to other suggestions/feedback.

 

Sometimes called 9-wire cable or multiconductor cable, here’s two options

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CSW9W20/Crutchfield-CSW9W-20.html?tp=2917

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-20-multiconductor-cable-for-most-vehicles-blue/8267984.p?skuId=8267984

This has 9 wires, all color coded (4 speakers and remote turn-on)
So when building a t-harness, two runs of this from your radio to your amp carries your audio signal from the radio to the amp, then your amp back to the factory wiring, and out to the speakers.

 

You think one roll is enough to get from head unit to under the front seat?. I plan on mounting the 200.4 behind the dash; but powered amp will be under seat, iunless I go the 500.1 route, then not sure if it will fit in the dash as well or will have to live under a seat.