Gearing Questions (V6 Auto)

Ok, so the last few days I've been scouring over various threads, and this one on ttora caught my attention, Alot of people are saying 4.88's is like 4.10's w/ a manual, and some say their really happy with the 5.29's, even with bigger tires like 37's. So I'm thinking 4.88's at the minimum, possibly 5.29's, with 33's/35's? I (maybe) plan to go up to 35's in the future. Another thing I wanted to ask, was brands for re-gear. The 2 main ones I saw were Nitro and Yukon, the latter being a fair amount cheaper. Anyone have experience with Yukon? Just wondering if the higher price tag would mean better quality with Nitro.

Thx.

 

was thinking the same, im on 31's right now but once i get flippac on, sliders, bumpers and to skinny 33's i'm thinking ill eventually regear to 4.88. although a few people i've contacted said they didn't need to regear but i guess we'll see.

 

I would say, 33s and 4.88. 35s or bigger, 5.29 for a 3rz. Just know that the pinion gets smaller as the gear ratio gets deeper. That means its weaker.

 

Yeah, eventually i'll wana go to 35's, but no bigger without a sas. I saw alot in the ttora thread that 5.29's with 33/35's gave a good amount of power for a DD/a good amount for off-roading, and one person even said they got like 18-20mpg on them. Another question I had was lockers. I saw on ECGS that I could get a rear E-Locker third, with 5.29's, for about 750$. Would it be more with it to get an ARB locker front and rear, or stick with the E-locker rear? And what about going 4.88's rear and 5.29's front? Best of both worlds?

Thx.

 

You need matching gear ratios in the front and rear.

It's all in what you want with a locker. I prefer toyota elockers. Mainly because toyota. ARB will give you the ability to have on board air, however, no air, no locker..

When you have ecgs build a diff for you, you have to turn in a core. Meaning. your old diff has to go to them, or you dont get the core charge money back....

 

I just want to reiterate this.

There are lots of people who run the stock gears on 33's and that's "good enough" for them. They don't mind being over geared, likely because they don't wheel very much, or maybe they don't do a lot of slow rock crawling stuff.

But, using the above calculator (there are others you can search for too), figure out what your current RPM is at, say 65mph. Then play around with the gear ratios to find something close.

More than likely you aren't going to find a gear set that will replicate your current ratios, you're going to have to make a compromise and go either slightly higher, or slightly lower than your current. I would opt towards lower gears... So if you find a 4.46:1 ratio (which doesn't exist) is your "perfect" ratio, go with 4.56.

Then there's the idea of the terrain you drive, and how much your rig weighs. If you're heavy and you like driving slow technical terrain, go lower. But if you just want to get as close to stock to maximize MPGs, stick as close to stock as possible.

 

NO! You have to have the same gear ratio front and rear.

You can look on the sticker on your door and find your stock axle gearing. Should be something like A03B or something. Then go here and figure out what gear/axles you have.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-gear-ratio-chart.365138/

If you have 4.10's, I suggest leaving it as is and driving it for a while. You won't hurt anything except your MPGs, lol. Plenty of people rive with 33's on 4.10's. You can always re-gear later.

 

Yeah, planning on a ARB Twin with a 2.5gal Viair tank. I'm not sure how much more it'll weigh, I wouldn't say a huge amount since I'm not going plate bumpers, only tube. I wouldn't wheel a ton, but a good amount, along with probably a good amount of fire roads and stuff for camping and what not (plus wheeling while traveling the U.S). I did mess around with the gear calculator, and I believe 285/75r16, 5.29's, put me at around 70mph@3075rpm, and 4.88's was like high 2800's. I know alot depends on drivers skill for off-road/rock crawling, but I wouldn't mind a good amount of torque, paired with decent mpg, say something like 14-16 would be alright. I do drive like a bat-outta hell though

 

For you, I'd say stick with matching the stock RPMs as much as you can. 4.56 should be good.

Stock you should be running about ~2100 RPM at 70. 5.29 is way too high. Even with 35's you're still almost 400 rpm higher than stock. That's what you want for a rock crawler, not something that sees a lot of highway and fire road miles.

 

Ok, so 4.56 should be good, if not, I can always go up to 4.88 if need be. Oh, and lockers, should I go for front and rear, or just rear?

 

i would stick to 4.56 or just upsize and stay stock if planning to go to 35s sooner than later. I am on 5.29 on 315-75-16 and it's got quite a bit of bottom end launch, but my mileage tanked in comparison to 4.56. 4.56 is a dog on the throttle though. Take into consideration too you will want to regear front and rear. I am running Yukons.

Doing the labor yourself? If you need someone, i got a great guy for that.

 

Not sure yet if I'ma do it myself or not, doesn't seem too difficult. Your saying 4.56's were slow with the 315/75's? Things like that got me thinking twice, some people say 4.88's or 5.29's, some say stock or 4.56's. I guess its all what you run and your preference. I'm not sure how long itll be before 35's, they seem to eat everything, and I don't think they would be good for long distance (8k miles) trips. But who knows ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

 

Yup, I went from 33’s to 31’s back to 33’s on stock gears.
33’s and plus the weight of my truck don't work well. For example I find myself using low range on forest service roads in the Sierra with any kind of hills. High range doesn’t work so well in the hills.
In deep sand like in Baja forget it.
31’s were slightly better but still pretty bad.
Add in the wind resistance of my camper and highway driving is pretty slow going. I need to add a roof wind deflector but that’s another topic.
The most difficult trails I’ve been doing is slick rock, although I’d like to progress.
Another factor for thinking 4.88’s is my truck isn’t my daily driver.
Fuel economy is only a concern in the context of range. I added a 2nd gas tank so I can carry 35 gallons of gas. So even then it’s not all that much of a concern.
My daily gets 35mpg and my bike gets 47. Those two can make up the difference.

 

yah know, what region do you live and what type of offroad do you plan to do? how often do you wheel? with my 315s, it's overgeared on road, but in the desert, it just grips and hauls. ideally, 4.88 would be good on road with 35s and folks are finding it good balance with 33s as well. when overgeared, i find myself speeding a lot as the bottom end kicks in pretty hard. i broke my 5.29 a couple months ago and in a bind, i threw in a spare diff with 4.56 and i am hating it right now as far as power, but i am nowhere near filling at the pump as i was on the 5.29. i am currently saving up for 5.29 again and hope to have them back in my truck as soon as the quarantine ends.

 

I live in North Cali region, offroading, a mix of everything. Desert/Sand, Some Rock crawling/trails like Rubicon, Moab, ect. I'm planning a trip around the U.S in the future, at least 6 months and 10k+ miles. Towing a trailer, probably not very many, if any trails towing the trailer, will be more like a base camp. I'm not sure how often wheeling, but most likely at least 1-2 times a month, whether that be local trails or farther trips. Trailer will probably weigh around 1200 or so pounds fully loaded. Mileage isn't a super big deal, but I like to keep it in mind at least to keep it above 12-14 mpg. I like low end torque for take off's, high end power isn't a super big deal for me, cause the fastest I'll probably end up going off road will be 55-60, and that's probably for short amount of time, on fire/gravel roads, and probably like 75 on the hwy. 35's aren't in the plans for at least a couple years, Probably sticking around 265-285/75r16 (32-33's), But I would like to do a bit of it all. Right now I'm thinking 5.29's is out, so either 4.56 or 4.88's. I'm also seeing alot of various forums, what most people are running. Their saying 3.4L, manual 4.88, auto 5.29 is like the go-to, but Idk.

 

I vote 285-75-16 with 4.88 to go a bit overgeared for the bottom end since you are auto transmission. The 33s will fill in the wheel wells if lifted. If not planning to lift until you decide to go all out, then 265-75 on 4.56

 

I'm going to mid travel. Found a Camburg front mid travel kit, Fox Adjustable RR coilovers and camburg uca's, and some all pro expedition leaf packs with fox adventure 2.0 shocks for about a 3" lift. 4.88's, yeah that's what I'm thinking, and that's what I got from the various threads lol. Thanks for all your guy's help, it's appreciated. Looks like 285/75r16 and 4.88's it is .

 

Did you get your 4.88s installed? How do you like them?

 

Are you still undecided? I thought you had decided on 5.29s?

 

Yeah I am. I got the new tires on and it really didn’t change much.

I measured the tires mounted on the truck (an inch shorter than advertised) and when I use the gear calculator it’s pointing me to 4.56.

I haven’t hit any hills yet but around town and flat doesn’t seem like too much power loss. I’ve got an SC that’s helping with take off power a lot.

Kinda thinking for my set up I’d rather have the moderate gears and want the lower sometimes other than the other way around. It’d be an easier decision if they weren’t so expensive!

if this stupid pandemic wasn’t on I’d ask to check out other members trucks. Really the only way to know for sure is to test them.