cbechtold's Long Travel IFS Crawler Tacoma Build and BS Thread

5.29 /discussion.

 

What about 4.88s, 35s and boost?

 

I'm on 35s, went 4.88s, and its not bad. However, if I could afford to do it again, I'd go 5.29s.

 

You also have a much more powerful engine. For the 3.4L 5.29's and a SC if you want to be able to get out of your own way with 35's.

 

Okay help me out. 5.29s seem like I'd be way over-geared, especially off road since I have the 4.7. 4.88s put me back into the stock rpms range and bring my truck is my daily, drivability is something I want to factor in.

Are we talking about any specific factor? On road? Off road?

You're also driving a 2nd gen so your drivetrain is different with gearing and total weight to factor in.

 

Whoops, you're not 2nd gen. For me on road is fine, and off road too, but I'm heavy and wouldn't mind a little more off road. I went 4.88s, because I didn't want to be overgeared on road, but know someone who recently went 5.29s in my same truck, and he swears by it, and that its perfect and not overgeared and he is lighter than me. He had some gear calculator thing he used and showed the logic too.

 

This?

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

It may seem like it if you don't take into account the fact the your motor doesn't make max HP until 4800 RPM and max torque is achieved at 3800 RPM. These motors want to run high in the band to put power to the wheels. I have 5.29's and if I could go deeper I would. Don't worry about matching "stock" anything. Worry about power to wheels. Everyone that goes 4.88 on 35's wishes they went 5.29's. Why? Because that's what get's you power to go up a hill.

With wheeling the lower the better. You won't notice the difference in the rocks that much but you will notice it between trails. Especially at elevation going up the slightest grade. Forget about gear calculators and listen to people that are currently running 35's.

 

So is 5.29s the way to go then if I plan to go 35s?

I’m a 2.7, not 3.4...yet

 

Yep

 

You're not wrong with there being a lot of people who say they wish they went with 5.29s when they went 4.88s. I'm still not entirely sold on gearing that low, but if that's where the power is then it's definitely something I should consider.

 

In case your interested in his experience, start here and read on. It is a second gen, but @theesotericone pointed out that with it working for us with the more powerful engine, it makes the case even stronger for your truck. I'm only a few years into my build, and still learning, so I am no expert (youtube/TW mechanic here). Just pointing out, I wish I went 5.29s. Especially after reading Tyler's review.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-it-for-the-kids.619250/page-17#post-24894231

 

That's actually a lot more in-depth that I was expecting. Very well put.

Question then for @theesotericone . Is my thought process of 4.88s/35s now, and then 5.38s/40s later justified in any sense? I think my biggest blockade on 5.29s was the difference in gearing needed for 40s and since 5.38s are as low as I can go with Super Duty axles, I can only guess it was me attempting to create a stepping stone between 35s and 40s.

 

He needs 4.88s shush. Lol

 

To me it doesn't make a lot of sense to do the 4.88's. Once you step up to SAS you'll re-gear those axles and lock them anyway. So staying on 4.88's with the stock set-up serves no real purpose. When you go to sell the stock front/rear I don't think selling 4.88's would be any better then selling it with 5.29's. In fact I'd bet the 5.29's sell faster.

It really boils down to if your willing to be OK running in the higher RPM's. In my rig(auto 3.4L) with OD on at 75 PMH I'm running at 2800 RPM's. If there's a hill and it kicks down to 3rd that puts me at 3900 RPM's to hold 75 MPH. There's a 7 mile long hill called the Sherwin Grade on 395 that I go up all the time. I'm at 3900 RPM's for all 7 miles of it. It doesn't bother me one bit and at 260,000 miles my rig doesn't seem to mind it either. lol

 

I mean, I've held the truck at 4k RPM going up to Shaver Lake and it never really phased it, so I'm down to bare with some higher RPMs. I guess if I really hate the slightly higher RPMs, sound deadening does exist.

 

Yeah, my rigs fully sound deadened and I have 2 amps. A 4 channel the drives my 4 door speakers and a 1500W mono that drives my 10" sub. Honestly, my PitBull's are way fucking louder then the motor and various rattles from the crawlbox. The stereo is almost always cranked up. lol

 

@theesotericone puts it much better than I could have stated it. Do it for all the reasons he's mentioned.
I've gotten a lot more comfortable revving the piss out of my motor. And even still I wish I would have gone 5.29's. Sure I would be more over geared than I would like on 33's, but it's needed even more so with the 2.7. Hence why i'm now looking at lighter weight 35's for when I go up in size so that it's not complete dogshit. We will see.

Both the 3.4 & 2.7 are rev happy motors and need to be ridden out higher to get to the power like he is saying.

Yes do 5.29's if you plan on going to 35's. For all the reasons I wrote above.

 

MT tires will always be the loudest part on these trucks. As mine have worn it, they freakin scream on the highway and you more or less have to shout when holding a conversating with the passenger when going 75 on the highway lol. Loud stereo forsure helps with that too.
You would need a shitload of thick sound deadening and thick mass loaded matting to to really silence the bitch up imo. Like fucking everywhere too

 

Yep. If there was an award for loudest mud terrain I'm positive PitBull Rocker Radials would win in a land slide though. They put a new level of loud into MT. If they weren't so damn good in the rocks I would have sold them a long time ago.