Anything welding

The pro-tip about the washers is a good one, I'll definitely use that. Were you able to weld the recovery points to the mounting plates while the mounting plates were attached to the frame? If so, I'm assuming you'd just have the top of the skin tack welded to the mounting plates to prevent any side-to-side distortion but still allow access to weld the recovery points. With the front of the skin tack welded in, it seems like it would be tough to make those welds.

Also, just curious where you bought the pre-fabricated mounting plates and how much they were. I looked online but just saw a bunch of OEM type stuff.

 

The mounting plates are easy enough to make. It's just a few holes and a notch on the top. If you want to get real crazy with them you can make them a bit long to protrude past the bumper and use them as your recovery points.

 

That definelty helps. But without patience and moving around the part, it’ll still be pretty easy to warp.

 

I just got a 14"/15 amp Evolution. I can tell you the base and the clamps are plenty strong. Maybe they have upgraded since you bought yours, or the one you used. As for the noise, I was prepared for jet engine level based on reviews, but I gotta say it's not as bad as I expected. I have a pair of cheap muff type protectors I use for lawn mowing and general garage work. They did more than enough to deaden it. I always wear protection anyway, so no real concern for me.

Blade cost, yeah, no argument there. Came with a 66T mild steel blade that seems to cut great. But, I will be getting a blade for aluminum, so that's gonna hurt.

Also, the reviews that said they are bad about spraying the chips/metal dust, again, yeah, I can see what the reviewers meant. I'll be using it outside the garage as soon as the temps get back above 45F.

I really wanted the portability to take it outside easily, vs the horizontal band saw. I like working outside as much as possible.

 

At least the chunks are big so while it makes a bit of a mess, they’re not getting airborne and inhaled.

 

That's true. The few times I've used it so far, they look like pepper flakes all over the table and floor.

 

That’s been my experience as well. And they’re blue, which is neat.

 

I'm rocking the 7.25" version. The base is just stamped sheet metal, and the back of the clamping surface is a piece of sheet metal bent at 90 degrees that bends a fair amount when you tighten the clamp too much.

 

That explains it. The one I got the base, clamp, and back stop are all cast.

I wonder if a guy could find a CL score on a miter saw and swap units on it? I have the 12" compound miter and it has a really rigid aluminum base and a strong arm. I got it years ago when HF was still running them on sale for $112. It's held up well.

 

Definitely leaning toward the 10" now over the 7-1/4" after reading that, I believe it's a little beefier. Tractor Supply has the compound sliding version for $250.

 

I’ve been thinking about building a hood for the Evo saw to catch the metal flakes. I’ve seen woodworkers make them for sawdust and it’ll be a simple 3 sided deal that can go just behind the saw. Even without adding vacuum ports, it’d catch a lot of the flying pieces and make it easier to clean up.

 

Just don't patent it, others may have interest...

 

There’s a lot of stuff out there but I like this dudes channel. Skip to 2:30 where he makes a hood for his miter saw. I’ll be doing something similar but I’ll probably make it modular or at least something I can fold up and store out of the way.

https://youtu.be/uKsWGZrVeg0

 

TS had it on sale for $199 recently.

 

The thing I wish my mini evo came with vs the 14" is the v block attachment.

 

I've got the Steelmax 14" and it's heavy and works well. Although, I'm sure it's a cheap chinese motor, so we'll see how long it lasts.

 

bit of angle iron welded to flat bar stock ought to solve that

 

Ha yeah that's the plan.

 

Got some new materials to learn on.

 

1.


Or

2.