Did I make a huge mistake?

OP. I understand the problem. More repairs needed than budget or time available.

About the only path available is to prioritize the most critical repairs first. Then work you way down the list as budget allows. Although, this is a bit of a gamble for which item fails to upset the repair priority. Just need to be flexible.

As a first......Second step, I'd suggest to go through the truck and perform all the 100 kmile services. This will essentially 0 (zero) the maintenance schedule and get you familiar with the truck bumper to bumper, road to roof. None of the work is as complex as what you have already completed. Cost will be around $250 for all the fluids and parts.

Another option, if you own your home, is a home equity loan. Speculating....you may be able to borrow $10K against the house, get all the repairs done. Have a cushion for the overrun repair costs. When complete, any monies left over, just pay back to the home equity loan.

Kudos on getting greasy and making the repair. You could download a couple of service manuals for the truck.....Sorry, I don't have the links and have forgotten where I found them. I'm sure one of the forum members could provide a link.

{your year bracket} Toyota Tacoma OEM Repair and Wiring Manuals

These are big downloads and come in as PDF files. These will help you take on bigger more complex DIY Repairs.

 

You did a wheel bearing and CV axle, you can definitely handle ball joints. But if you don't already have the tools it's probably more cost effective to have a shop do them since it might be the last time they'll need to be replaced for the life of the truck. I couldn't imagine trying to do ball joints without air tools, for example.

But valve cover gaskets can be done with a few hand tools. Don't be intimidated by all the small things you have to get out of the way. Color-code electrical connectors with paint pens BEFORE taking them apart, then everything makes sense going back together. Take lots of photos on disassembly so you can refer back to them if needed. A flashlight, inspection mirror and magnetic pickup tool are indispensable for working in engine bays.

 

I would advise against taking a loan against your home to fix a beater truck lol

 

It doesn't look or sound like a "beater" truck.

 

I had to replace a valve cover on my cruze a few years ago. Ive since sold it and got a tacoma, but from what i remember the part was about 350ish I think and my dad help me put it on for free. Worked fine afterwards. There is a youtube video for EVERYTHINGGGG now, i am sure you will be able to figure it out dont stress, god bless!

 

You're not a dumbass and haven't made a mistake only added to your life lessons and it has made you wiser (I've lost count of mine @ 58 years old)

You've already expanded your mechanic skills and after 4 hours of hard work you're no quitter so don't be intimidated of the other repairs. Repair things that you can or are comfortable doing with help from TW or others and save for shop repairs. Maybe there's a TW member close to you that would be willing to help with repairs (if you're comfortable with that). Make sure it's safe to drive before you retire your Subie because you're irreplaceable!

This truck will serve you well in the outdoor adventures to come

 

Everything can be fixed, and I am sure someone on here would help for a day of pizza and beer. Keep the truck, fix the issues and drive it for the next 10 years. My 4Runner had 325K on it when I sold it. These are great trucks, welcome to TW and good luck with your truck.

 

Leaking valve cover? Ask your mechanic to check the bolt torque. Gaskets squeeze over time (to simplify things, a lot). Because it started at say 0.010 inches and now it’s at 0.009 inches thick (again just an example) that thou could be enough to allow a leak since it’s now not torqued to spec.

if you have a torque wrench you can easily diy. I’d start with one bolt at a time, remove it, clean everything up, and then torque to spec. And then do the next bolt. Etc etc.

 

I was going to suggest the same thing. I'll bet you can find guys local to you on here that would be more than willing to help out. I replaced my whole suspension setup with the help of a bunch of cool dudes I met through here. Saved me at least $1k, but cost me some beer and food. Still wheel and camp with them....good times!

 

yes, definitely do this first before you go all out to replace the valve cover gasket

 

Re torquing is one of the most under rated relatively simple tasks for car care, or any heavy machinery for that matter, of all time. So easy and crucial. Imagine owning a bike and never tightening the seat, the wheel, the derailleur, etc. it’s insane how many people don’t own torque wrenches. Think of loose door knobs, shower handles, cabinet doors, your scope, your butt, mailbox, mower blade, all the things that would go to shit if not retightened or essentially calibrated....hell tying your damn shoelaces even. Well your car is like that too.

tighten up

 

Kegels FTW

 

Amen

 

like I said before odds are OP doesn’t need to rush to do the valve cover.

BUT I just bought all the gaskets a few weeks ago to do mine and it was $75. You don’t need to replace the valve cover. Just the seals.

 

I just want to point out that I did not pay cash in any of these instances, interest rates are very low (I only spent about $1k in interest bc I put a decent down payment down). Not trying to argue, but the point I'm trying to make is don't look at the price you're spending, look at how much is the life cycle cost (depreciation, interest, maintenance, and repairs). If you buy something almost new and sell it before it hits 100k miles, yes you'll spend a little more on depreciation, but if you buy something with 100k miles and sell it at 200k miles you may save on depreciation but you'll spend a lot more on maintenance and repairs, plus have the inconvenience when something breaks on you at the most inconvenient time.

This only works on vehicles that hold their residual value like a Tacoma or 4runner, obviously this doesn't fly on a BMW where it depreciates like crazy the first few years. The big take away is that affordability is much more than the acquisition price of the vehicle, it's the total ownership costs and what your time is worth dealing with repairs.

 

Total ownership cost per vehicle is a good comparison but only if compared over time.

How often are you trading up? How much are is your cost each time you do?

I have no clue what it is for you but I’d have to see some good number before I believe that financing new over and over costs even close to the same as used once a decade or more.

 

Let’s say I buy used for 10 grand and drive it for ten years. My maintenance cost is a little higher (you’re right these cars have good resale but they’re also reliable).

In ten years I’ve spent 15 grand “maybe” for total car and maintenance (not counting gas since they both take that).

Have also paid less in insurance and have no recurring monthly bill.

(I won’t get into the opportunity costs of your monthly payment to put into retirement, investment, personal business, etc. because that’s HUGE and if taken into account you cars probably cost you a million bucks over your life in lost investment retirement ha).


I’m listening, man. I just want to see the numbers.

How much do you put down (you said a lot), how much a month, how much do you get back on trade in toward the next. Etc.

 

The most important part is the frame...

 

Since i spend so much time in my vehicle l buy what l can afford and what l like.

You could spends days or weeks going over the pros and cons of buying new, or of buying used.
It's such a complicated argument, with good arguments made by both sides. But ultimately, for me, l buy what l can afford and what I personally will enjoy owning and driving the most.

Each person has to decide what is the most important criteria to them.

 

Congrats on your truck,simple repairs. I guess I'm a bit biased,as I've worked for Subaru for 25yrs. Why are you worried about the CVT?