ECGS Bushing Basic Questions.....??

I've been searching and haven't come across an answer I felt comfortable with. Maybe you guys can clear this up for me. I'm having someone else do the install and I want to be able to give him clear and accurate information although some probably fall into the "no shit" category.

1. Which side of the bushing is outboard. I assume it's the "flat" surface to facilitate installation. (top picture)

2. How deep does it get installed?

 

Yes, flat side out. Install until flush. Same as the original needle bearing.

 

Top pic faces outward.

Ecgs install tool ensures it is seated flush. Also makes install much easier.

 

I purchased the installation tool, so I'm glad it makes it idiot proof. Thanks!!!

 

Also make sure they put a large ziplock bag or other plastic into the hole before removal/install. Several people have dropped tools/pieces of needle bearing inside their diff.

 

I plan to mention this to the installer. I'll probably give him a list of torque values for the fasteners that require removal. I hope he doesn't take it as an insult.....

 

Axle nut 173 ft lb
2 lower spindle bolts 118 ft lb

Another overlooked item is diff fluid. When you pull the axle, will lose some diff fluid. Best to do a drain and fill of the front diff. 1.6 qt of

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 gear oil. I like Mobil 1.

 

Thanks! I got that covered as well. I'll be lending him my garden sprayer/fluid transfer pump (with gear lube).

 

You don't have to remove the axle nut. Just unbolt the lower ball joint and swing the whole front spindle/hub forward and out of the way when you pop the axle out of the diff.

DON'T waste your/his time taking that axle nut off!

 

I just PM'd you LOL! I'm having the axle swapped out with one from CVJ Axles. I figured now would be a good time as most of it will be apart. My axles are looking pretty nasty. Thanks for the heads up!

 

Subbed

 

Just saying, from the FAQs, at the very bottom here, East Coast recommends 85w140 Non-Synthetic Lucas differential oil.
There's more in the FAQs than just this, I just snipped this portion in.
Is that correct, any comments on this since this is just a recommendation? Something to think about.

 

Any chance you could measure the Bushing and post them? Looking for the length, the ID and the OD. I worknin a machine shop and we have some of the sintered bronze material and thought I might be able to make my own. Thanks in advance.

 

(L) 1.225 x (OD) 1.631 x (ID) 1.372

These measurements are as best I could gleam. My cheap digital micrometer's accuracy could be called into question.

Just my opinion - I don't think it would be wise to attempt to make your own. ECGS's bushing is more than just a sintered bronze bushing and from their description, it undergoes a number of processes. I believe to try and save $60 would be foolish here. Experience has taught me that parts will fail at the most inopportune times and in doing so, those times are more costly. I'm not questioning your machining skills in any way. Given that the ECGS's bushing has a proven track record, I would go with it and not have the worry about a bushing you made failing prematurely. Again, this is just my opinion. Go with what feels right to you.....

For the record, I'm all about DIY projects and homebrew fab work, but sometimes it just isn't worth the effort. One has to do a cost/risk/benefit analysis, and be honest with yourself. I've learned this with years of hobby wrenching and have been bitten in the ass more times than I'd care to admit to......

 

it's not a simple bronze bushing; you can tell that from the pictures above.

 

From ECGS's site....."One Sintered PTFE Bushing, metal backed, bronze inlaid, PTFE coated CV axle bushing for Toyota 8" front clamshell differential."
Service life - 500,000 miles
They've done quite a bit to the bushing....

 

I'm curious about two things with this ECGS bushing. I received it along with the axle oil seal and all install tools yesterday. Today is Saturday and they are closed; I had wanted to ask them:

1. Attached is the bushing I received. It looks to me that the steel lip that protects the bushing is the same internal diameter as the bushing itself. One of their video's on their website remarks that they made this protective steel lip to:

a. aid in protecting the bushing during installation
b. Serve as a warning if the bushing is failing, because you will get metal on metal contact.

From the git go, it almost looks like I will get metal on metal contact with the CV bearing surface and this ECGS bushing. Is the difference between the diameter of the bushing and the steel protective surface actually that small? I tried to take a detailed picture of it but it's hard to photograph:





I also assume that the crease in the bearing surface is normal?

2. Anyone else have comments about using ECGS's recommendation of 85w140 non-synthetic Lucas diff oil? We're supposed to be running 75w85 GL5 diff oil.

 

Same thing I thought too , oil lite bronze

 

My bushing looked the same.
It also had the line “micro-weld” on the inside.

Answers

1.a. -The outer steel lip is for beating the bushing in. If you go to their FAQ page it says this.
1.b. - I’ve never heard this? When you pull the needle bearing, you’ll see it also has a lip.
When the needle rollers wear, you’d think if it was going to equal, you’d hear it?
Mine didn’t squeal, it just had a vibration.

I used the recommended 85w140, because that’s what it says you should use.
And I didn’t want to do this more than once. I really don’t enjoy working on vehicles.
I just do it to save myself some money.

Here is a link to a few post I’ve done on it.
With a very brief “How I did it”

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/abs-flash-code-36-on-2006-dcab.728243/#post-25943116