kicker key in a 2020 with 8" entune?

One roll is long enough for under the seat, yes.

if your 200.4 is going in the dash, there won’t be a huge need for speed wire. I like to still use it so I can add 1-2 feet of wire on each side. That will let the amp mount comfortably off to the side.

if you’re doing a powered sub or subwoofer amp under the seat, you won’t need speedwire. Just a single pair of speaker wire

 

I don’t think there will be enough room behind the radio for both amps. With that said, there’s some posts on here where people were putting the 200.4 (maybe it was the 180.4) inside of the glove box and behind the trim above the glove box.

Personally, when I had the 200.4 I put it under the passenger seat and put the hideaway sub under the drivers seat.

 

Interesting thought of putting it in the dash. I was thinking that to but you need access to the 200.4 to run the dsp program. I guess there are ways around that thinking ahead of how your going to do that.

 

Do you need to run it more than once? I figured I would wire it all up, run the DSP, then once that is done, button up the installation.

 

I need to look at the measurements of the 200.4. My intent is to have the subwoofer under a seat, and then a ham radio under the other one, but there might be room for the 200.4 as well. I will probably just go the powered sub method, which will have the amp within it, but I'm not opposed to running a 500.1 and a passive sub under the seat. Regardless I plan on running some wires to the seats. lol.

 

If I were changing speakers after the fact, maybe? but I was thinking more in line of having the hu in place then you have to press the button to start the dsp processs as you have 10 seconds before it starts? Maybe able to dangle the hu with all wires connected or maybe... or having enough wire slack to leave the amp on dash with hu in place or...

I'm just think of the little things as I don't move to swiftly nowadays

 

For the auto tune on the 200.4 it has a long cord with a microphone on the end. You out the microphone on top of the drivers headrest when doing the setup process. You can easily fit the wire for that microphone along the side with the headunit in place (not with the dash trim on though). Also, when you take the headunit out you have enough play in the harnesses to rest the headunit face down on top of the gear shifter. I’d highly recommend putting a microfiber cloth on top of the gear shifter before putting it on there though.

As for adjusting the gains, you can do that with the headunit on top of the gear shifter.

Honestly, what I did when setting my gains was I disconnected the harness that connects from the amp to the stock harness so that no sound is playing out of the speakers. The track that kicker has you play to set the gains is loud and obnoxious; but you can disconnect that harness and the amp will still know when the gain is set too high. The sound doesn’t actually have to be coming out of the speaker for the amp to know.

 

I just installed the the Kicker(Subaru)

$119 H631SFJ101 - Genuine OEM

H631SFJ101 (Tweeter),

$111 Kicker 46CSC6934 Kicker CS Series 150 Watt 6 x 9" Car Audio Coaxial Speaker Pair, Black

Kicker 46CSC6934 (Front) and

$77 Kicker 46CSC674 6.75" 6-3/4" 600w 4-Ohm Car Audio Coaxial Speakers CSC674

Kicker 46CSC674 (Rear) in my '21 TRD OR Non-JBL and wow!, night and day difference in sound!

I also have the KEY 200.4 I need to install and was hoping for some solid instructions on wiring. I can tear apart computers in my sleep but haven't done Amps before. Would love to hear some details once you get yours working.

 

Go back about two pages and start reading. We recently discussed the harness needed. Other than that, you just need to ground the amp to the chassis (ground bolts are all over the place in these trucks) and then run the power to the battery. The 200.4 comes with a inline fuse but I think you will need additional 14 AWG wire to get from the amp to the battery.

There is a “remote turn on” wire on the amp (blue and white I believe) but you shouldn’t need to use it since the 200.4 has High level turn on (meaning it can know to turn on when it senses voltage through the speaker wires). There’s a switch on the amp to flip for this. However, put some tape or something on the end of the remote turn on wire. On those amps, when you use high level turn on, that remote turn on turn into a 12v out wire. Taping it off will ensure it doesn’t touch anything and short out.

 

Lol, I think I missed that part. I just turned the gains up until I could hear the white noise, then backed it off a bit.

Looks like I’ve got something to do tomorrow.

Thanks for the tip of disconnecting the output...

 

Mines in the dash, sits in there out of the way nicely.

 

So I’m in the truck playing pink noise and adjusting the gain but the led never comes on. I must be doing something wrong

 

Its not the pink noise track. It’s their 1000k track (or something like that). I’ll snap a screenshot of it in one sec.

Also, you need to turn your radio up to about 3/4 max volume (this is why I say to disconnect the harness so no sound goes to the speakers...don’t disconnect the one that goes from the headunit to the amp though)

 

Use the file I circled below (assuming your trying to do it for your door speakers...not a sub). I’ve always heard to use the WAV format since mp3 is compressed. The pink noise file is for setting up the auto eq, which is different than the gains.

Disconnect the output harness to your speakers. Turn the radio up 3/4 of the way. Turn both gains all the way down. Press play (you shouldn’t hear any sound since you disconnected the output) and slowly turn the front gain up until the green light turns on (max gain) then turn it down a hair. Do the same for the back. Boom bam pow. Gains set.

I’m not an audio installer and there’s prolly better ways to be more precise, but this has always done the trick for me, and is what kicker recommends.



Edit: you’re going to have white noise unless you turn the gains all the way down. I found that the headunits in our truck are shit in regards to that. You either have to live with it, or turn the gains back down until it’s tolerable. My sweet spot was the front gain around 9 o’clock and the rear around 11 o’clock.

 

Cheers buddy and Thanks for holding my hand!

got it done, tbh I have turned the front gain pretty much to off because I get really annoying static/white noise, I backed the rears off a bit also.

Initially I was underwhelmed with the set up but it’s been a few months now and I think the speakers are breaking in nicely.

I need to start doing some rattle/vibration minimizing. Thinking about putting some deadening material on the inside of the door cards...

 

Sure thing! Glad to help! I had horrible white noise as well, but in all honesty, if you give it a few weeks, you won’t notice it as much. That’s what I did.

I didn’t do any sound deadening when I had that setup. I traded that truck in on a 2021 though and am in the process of removing all of the JBL stuff. I did put deadening in for that, but haven’t gotten my system up and running yet. It did make a difference in rod noise though, so I’m sure it will be worth the effort.

 

As someone who has never done sound deadening, how hard to install the noico type stuff.

 

It’s not hard necessarily. Just tedious in certain ways. The “hardest” part is rolling it to make sure you have good adhesion.

“hardness”: 3 or 4 out of 10
“Pain in the assness”: 7 out of 10

Definitely worth it. It though.

You don’t have to go crazy and cover every square inch either.

 

I did buy the roller to make sure I apply it properly. Looking forward to doing it, mostly because it is something I haven’t done before, even though I’ve done lots of car stereo stuff before.

 

I remember someone here recommending to simply only do the back side of the door card and not the actual metal... Was that you? if not any input on whether this would be effective?