How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Somebody else already posted something similar but you could do something like this aluminum hinge if you figure out how to clearance it and make it work

https://www.cookandboardman.com//pr...xMW0wczBmW1YDQs-el3zN3AQItWVIrvhoCU5MQAvD_BwE

 

Waiting on brackets and will do the side supports this week.

I noticed in the BOM for Ripcords V2 his southco latches cost like $7.10 each. I suspect he used the wish.com version because they are $31 each through southco and most places that stock them. I'm on the fence if I want to buy the cheap knock offs. If I don't then I will only have the rear panel open, I still do not feel a need for the sides to open

 

Of all of the things I hoped to do, I was least optimistic about this one... so glad you shared it, thanks!

 

He ordered them from a surplus website but they don’t have any in stock anymore

edit: I bought the Amazon knock offs and they’re solid. Not water tight but I don’t think the oem ones are water tight either. my snugtop also let in small amounts of water in heavy rain so I’m okay with it

 

@JMcFly soutcho has another part number for ones with better water seal. Could possibly see Amazon sells that model.

 

Instead of the aluminum angle stiffeners for the door panels I am planning to route and bend the Dibond like shown below. I’ll run a bead of aluminum/composite epoxy in them when bending to make sure they are strong. Planning on these bends being very similar to the v2 GFC. If anyone has experience or ideas with this, let me know- looks like the sign forums are hip to these kinds of routed bends with Dibond. Cheers
-Landon

 

Someone else shared this earlier on, it's the cheapest genuine SouthCo option I've seen. Still twice as much as the knock offs, but better than $30:

$32 Southco Compression Lever Latch - Flush - Locking

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DV2CCV

Then I think these are the "waterproof" ones: https://www.mcmaster.com/2033N25/

It sounds like most folks here are having pretty good luck with the knock offs and with the non-wasdown SouthCos. I haven't decided on whether I'm gonna do genuine or not but I wont be spending the $210 on the washdown ones.

 

That might be pretty cool to get solved. The camper shell makers at super pacific seem to do the same thing.

 

anybody think about doing the 20 lb 17" gas struts instead of the 28 lb on the BOM? wondering if this would help with flex on the panel while still having enough strength to lift the door adequately.

@Ripcord @Jarman02 @plurpimpin

 

That’s probably wouldn’t hurt. The doors don’t take a lot of force so I’m sure the 20lb ones would do the job perfectly fine. When installing one strut was plenty to hold the door open.

When closed the gas strut force is pretty much inline with the length of the vertical stiffeners. I had quite a bit of panel deflection before I installed my gas struts so I’m pretty sure my main source was from compressing the bulb seals.

I haven’t had any issues since I added some brackets that tie the stiffeners on each side of the latches together. Haven’t thought twice about it since then.

 

what did you end up making that bracket out of? it looks good!

 

Leftover 1/8” steel flat bar, angle grinder, and a cutoff wheel.

I just made a cardboard template that fit around the latches without hindering functionality, cut 4 out, painted, and riveted to the aluminum angle.

 

beautiful! thanks a bunch

 

I went 20lbs struts and still get some deflection/flex. I couldn't imagine going higher. I'm actually looking into getting a 10 or 15lb strut. 20 lbs is plenty strong to hold the panels up.

 

The strength of the gas struts is not about holding them open, its about opening them in a timely manner. Trying using a 20# pair of struts in 30 degree temps and you'll see... it will open very slowly, if at all.

 

I didn’t see weight anywhere for “just the tent”, has anyone worked out where all the weight is? I’m considering building just the tent for an existing rack.

 

spreadsheet has a "weights" tab

 

subd

 

I tried some 18lb ones for the rear door, but they must have been the wrong type as they had plenty of strength to open, but were waaaaaay to slow. 28lb ones work fine for me

 

Has anyone considered doing a clear roof? My wife mentioned the idea yesterday and I think it would be really cool. Also let her know the idea would have been really really cool 3 months ago before I installed the roof.. ha.

I did a quick search and didn’t see anything big enough, but maybe someone has a source. Just an idea for someone in the build process.