1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Well known in the cruiser community also.

 

Good morning all!!

 

I'm happy to make more V6 cable kits (alt, starter, fuse box, main engine ground, fender ground) but I gotta know what's a reasonable price to you fine folks. I don't wanna gouge but I have to see if I can build down to a price too. I make em out of premium quality 2ga or 4ga welding cable and crimped copper lugs (no soldering here this ain't some sketchy Best Buy audio install). The only stipulation here is you both, or more people if you find any, have to agree on 2ga or 4ga cause I don't wanna buy a bunch of both if no one wants one.

 

For when the danger of a front end crash isn't enough, here's 30lbs of cast steel crashing through the windshield.

 

Jeep guys started mounting them to their tin can hood hinges and I guess the logical next step was to mount it higher and farther forward. At least its not attached to a body panel I guess.

 

Now why would you go and do something stupid like that?

 

Exactly why Ryan and so many others feel this is .

Or the grille

 

Because. I get bored

 

I still have a little #4 left over from my power run to the bed of the truck. I have plenty of lugs left as well. At some point I need to get into this, was planning on doing the 3 and dropping in that other alternator just never got around to it.

 

I've seen too many Final Destination movies so I'm always playing out the worst scenarios in my head.

 

Then get to work on your truck. I wouldn't put that voltage regulator unit from a sad 70a unit on a 105a, plus not having the sense wire on the 105 is nice, keeps it locked in at 14.6v all the time.

 

The alt is cake if it's the 105 from the Vitara. If you do the Big 3 consider making it a big four and running one to the tapped hole on the inside of the front frame rail too, makes for a nice ground plane for radio equip and a good place to ground heavier accessories on the truck.

 

This is what I was trying to sell @BartMaster1234 on

.. power supplies are expensive especially since he wants 100a at 12vdc

What if he were to go with a 1.5kva 1PH isolation transformer and then run that through a 100A rated rectifier? It'll be 10 times heavier than an actual power supply and won't look as elegant or fancy inside a panel but it would definitely be cheaper. Just slap some thermocoating paste and a beefy heatsink under that rectifier and he should be off to the races...

 

I've got all those crimpers and stuff .. I should be able to make you cables no problem as I need cables and alt upgrade myself


Lengths might be different tho, given I've got the 2.7 and yall have the 3.4

 

Old tires/wheels from the 4runner and old tires/wheels from my daughter's 13 Tacoma.

Need to get rid of at least one set sometime....

 

4 gauge

I'd have to measure some of them when I get a chance; no rush though since I don't have a winch or alternator yet. I wish to do the wiring and alternator at the same time.

 

I plan on doing both at the same time but am going to wait until all my steering and suspension stuff is done.. I just convinced the SO I need to drop 1.5k on a lift kit so it'll be a little before I buy an alternator and upgrade myself.

Cool, I've got about 200ft of 4 gauge black weld wire which is good for 145A. So long as you're cool with me using 4-6" of red heat shrink on the black cable to indicate positive I won't have to buy more cable... I like to crimp and solder the lugs when I build heavy cables even though @Speedytech7 thinks soldering lugs is hokey

 

What duty cycle are we running here?

Cheap thing to do would be some 12V batteries and like a 10-15A charger if it doesn't need to run all the time.

 

On high vibration applications a cold weld crimp.without solder is preferable, the cables crack and break at solder joints. Also how you gonna measure for a V6?