Let's talk batteries

Yes please.. Hopefully it's an isolated case with mine, but will see what happens.. thanks..

 

Picked up a duralast 24f AGM today from autozone. Hopefully it will last 40k miles like the stock battery did.

 

I am in the same boat as well. Put in an Optima yellow top a year ago, relacing faxtory battery in 2015. We went thhrough covid in Jan and truck was driven for a month, battery wouldnt start the truck. Charger brought it back until today when it was at 10.6v after sitting for another week. Not sure if it is a bad battery, the year of use with factory charge rate or something is draining the battery (alarm, stereo system, spod) PS i now carry a BOOST starter for a backup plan.

 

I learned the hard and expensive way.

Bought a yellow top, died in 4 years, outside warranty.
Didn't learn from that. Bought a red top for another car, died before warranty. Called Optima, and their warranty is worthless. Customer service said they wouldn't replace since it only covers a manufacturing defect, not "abuse" as they called it. With the same use, the previous OEM lead-acid lasted 10 years prior to "upgrading".
Read I could revive it with an Optima charger - spent more money on that, and revived nothing.

Now trying out an East-Penn AGM. Looked at Northstar but had enough of spending premium $.

 

So is the Northstar (or batteries plus) x22 still a great option? The 27F for my 2nd gen TRD OR with tow, and heavy offroading.

 

Four Years?.... you got 4-YEARS out of a battery?... LOL
That's a bargain -

If we get 2 years out of a battery, ANY BATTERY we did good..

Arizona heat - just eats the hell out of batteries out here.

 

If you want to stick with a traditional lead acid battery so that you don't have to alter your charge voltage, you can swap your 24F to a 27F battery by changing the battery tray. The Toyota part number for the 27F tray is

$58 744310C020 TOYOTA Genuine (74431-0C020) Battery Tray

744310C020. A Deka Ultimate Battery in 27F has 840 CCA and an Autozone Platinum EFB has 810 CCA. Both have 140 Reserve Capacity.

 

Same with here in Vegas. But I'm on 4 with my current battery, luckily. I'm getting a new one tho

 

My Toyota True Start in my 2018 is still going strong and will be hitting the 4 year mark soon. My dealer will sell me a new True Start for $96 plus tax and my old battery core. Not too bad with a 2 year full replacement and pro rated for 84 months. I don't need a AGM because weather around here is not too bad on the East Coast of Va. and I don't run any accessories. I do have the KDMAX tune so uping the charging parameters is not an issue but don't see the need in spending all that money. Also the True Start is made by Johnson Controls and is supposed to be of higher quality, right I know what your thinking. My experience with the OEM battery has been great, I do short trips and only drive it a few times a week and only have 20k miles on it. I do keep a tender on it from time to time as my Tacoma and the Wife's 4Runner stay in a heated and ac garage at all times, but for me another True Start is going in soon for piece of mind.

 

I'd stay away from Batteries Plus...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/battery-bad-need-recommendation.740182/page-5#post-26383193

I have heard of similar experiences from others local to me.

 

Here's an alternative worth knowing about, for those who are interested in saving some money... a few years ago a coworker turned me on to buying "blem" batteries from the local auto parts distributor. The distributor gets batteries back from local auto parts stores when they reach their "sell by" date and sits on them for a short time before they send them in to be recycled, but they'll sell them at a steep discount with no warranty if you ask. I paid $40 for a "blem" Interstate battery for my Xterra a few years ago, and replaced it with another "blem" Interstate a few months ago before I traded it in for my Tacoma. I've seen no sacrifice in performance or lifetime compared to a slightly newer, identical battery I could have paid a lot more for.

For those of you who are discussing top-shelf batteries that cost several hundred dollars, you're probably not the target audience here and that's okay, but for those who just want a good working tub of electrons...

 

I went out to the garage, tested my orginal Toyota battey and is showing a full charge and my truck is going on 4 years old in a few months. Also lots of short trips, super low mileage, stays in a garage and no battery tender used. I have the larger OEM tray waiting for a 27f OEM Toyota battery.

 

I also went with the Northstar 27F. So far so good.

 

That's not cool. Hm. My last battery died about 2 weeks before the warranty expired and Walmart replaced it no questions asked... so I haven't bought a battery in a long ass time. Definitely due though. I wanna go AMG, or something that can handle all the extra lights, DRL, camp lights, and the whip with ease. That way when I'm camping I can run the scene lights and whip at night without worrying it'll drain me.

 

Looking at 24F Oddessy, 24F or 27F truestart, so what to go with? I can have my Tuner set the charging to handle the AGM if I go that route. My factory battery is still showing good, but I believe I'm on borrowed time. I do have the 27F battery tray if I do a 27F battery, thoughts.

 

Any downside of going to a 27f with big power? Like quick trips here and there running around town. Would it get the proper full charge doing multiple 5 min trips?

 

I noticed the location "Alberta." Go with the 27F; the extra reserve in cold weather is well worth it.