Brake Light, ABS Light, TPMS Light are all On, and A/C Not Turning On

I have all these lights coming on on my 2006 Tacoma: Brake Light, ABS Light, TPMS, and then the AC won't turn on at all. The ac button doesn't light up, and nothing is happening when I turn the knobs.

Funny enough, this morning, all of the lights came off, then the ac worked, and about 10 minutes down the road, it all happened again.

I installed an aftermarket touchscreen radio about a week before all these issues, but I didn't mess with any fuse. Just used the harness that came with it and the harness from Crutchfield. Would it have affected anything?

I'd love to hear some feedback.

 

I think that would involve the 10 ampere IG1 NO2 Fuse.

Check the IG1 Fuse too.

Both are in the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel behind the cubby.

 

That's the right fuse alright, but you want to find out what blew it, or it'll just blow again. I had the exact same problem with my 2007, turned out to be some fried circuitry inside of my AC compressor. Couldn't afford to replace it - had 'em put an idler pulley on it - who needs AC?

 

Us swamp things in Florida.

 

I understand. Even summers up here in NH would like some AC. Maybe this summer I'll get 'er fixed. Expensive, though. But it sure is loud when you roll down the windows

 

Thank ya'll so much! I'll be checking it tomorrow, and then I'll give you an update. Yeah, I live in Florida, so I definitely would prefer to have my AC. Hopefully the circuitry isn't bad

 

Valid point. Find out what blew it.

 

For what it's worth I have found with my truck at least that most times after resetting the ECU (disconnect the battery for 1 hour or more and or disconnect and touch the negative and positive leads and together for 10 seconds.) Will not allow the AC compressor to clutch to engage until I have driven for about an hour or two drive cycles. (From a cold start up to temp, cool off and start again.) I suppose this is one of the smart checks done, annoying but something I've come to expect now.

First time it happened I thought I somehow broke the AC when I changed the battery out.

 

I did change the fuse, the 10 IG1 NO2 Fuse, and it seemed to work. I had looked at that fuse before, but didn't look blown, so I just put it back. Now I know not to trust it based on how it looks. I haven't had a chance to drive it anywhere yet to see if it would blow again, but I'll give an update when I do.

 

Hi guys

New here, have been a long time member of Matthew.s Volvo thats helped me keep a 94 850 going So now to mess with a Tacoma, I have the same problem with Slip indicator. Tire pressure, ABS and Brake Light on, this occurred out of the blue with the defroster on, chased this to the IB1 No 2 fuse blown. replaced fuse and all light out. After reading here I was pretty sure it was the defroster calling on the A C compressor that took out the fuse. So picked up some 10 amp fuses and tied the defroster you could feel the compressor click on and the RPMs change then the draw takes out the IB1 # 7 fuse in seconds. So issue appears to be with the compressor what I need help with is How to trouble shoot the magnetic clutch and/or the compressor to identify what needs replacing. For now planning to remove the AC relay so everything else works Now to fill out new member ID
so you know I have a 2010 basic 4cyc 5 spd 85k on the clock

Thanks

 

The only thing electric with the compressor is the clutch and the inductive switch for rotation sensing.

The light green wire (LG) going to this circuit comes from the IG1 NO2 Fuse.

 

Here is a list of all the loads on the IG1 No2 Fuse:

 

Jimmgh Thanks for your reply: So if I get this, even if a compressor was seized it would not create an over current that would blow a fuse
that over current comes from the magnetic clutch failure, even though mine kicked in it drew enough current to blow the fuse

Do you know how to test, what should the resistance in the coil of the Magnetic clutch be

 

Pretty sure it should be between 3 to 5 ohms. I'll see what I can find to document that and correct it if I'm wrong.

I didn't see anything specific in the Tacoma Manual about resistance check, but it should fall in line with every other AC Clutch in the world 3 - 5 Ohms.

https://www.compressorworks.com/Upload/Four Seasons/documents/Tech Tips/English/4S 336 CLUTCH COIL DIAG.PDF

https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/ac-clutch-coil-test.html

 

Jimmyh Thank You

 

I’m having the exact same problem I even put in a after market touchscreen radio what did you do to fix your problem I’ve spent so much money trying to figure it out I’ll cashapp you if you can diagnose it lol