Bed rail caps

Anyone selling their bed rail caps?

 

Those are expensive. $17 each at the dealer. Have you checked there? I have maybe two that I don’t need anymore since I added a molle panel

 

Dealer told me they don’t sell just the caps...are you willing to sell yours and for how much??

 

They do. Part number is 6613404010. I got mine from Jim Coleman Toyota for $12.90 each.

 

The dealer sells them, they just don’t understand what you want. I told them I wanted the third rail and end caps for the bulkhead for a 2015 Tacoma and they understood. If they look up for a 2016 and up Tacoma, no part exists for the third gen since it didn’t come with one.

 

That’s the top plastic piece on the side of the truck bed??

 

For a 2016+ longbed, part #s are 66248-04040 and 66249-04040

 

For 2016+ short bed:
66248-04050
66249-04050

 

Oh. I misunderstood what you wanted.

There are actually 4 variations of the top caps: short bed w/o tonneau cover, short bed w/ tonneau cover, long bed w/o tonneau cover, and long bed w/ tonneau cover. And left and right side, of course.

 

How do the bed rails remove? Is it easy?
I have mud and stuff entering in through the bed rails and its annoying and defeats the purpose of having a shell over the bed. I will remove the shell this summer and tape up the underside of the bed rails then re-install. Will the tape interfere with the tabs that hold the bed rails on? Thanks for any help

 

It's easy to break the tabs holding the bed caps on, especially if the truck is old and the plastic has become brittle.

Basically, starting at one end, you pull them straight up. I would suggest that as you pull, you probe the tabs with a thin spatula (from the outside) to help release them. Push to release the barbs.

After you remove the bed caps, you will see many holes in the top of the bed side (the metal fender). This is where the water enters. Forget the tape. What you want to do is put plenty of sealant inboard of the holes. It helps that the bed caps roll over the inside edge of the bed side, so the sealant won't be visible. Apply the sealant to the bottom of the caps along the plastic ridges.

Don't forget to put sealant under the front cap as well. Pay a lot of attention to the notorious front corner gaps. I would recommend installing the OEM rubber plugs that come with factory tonneau covers. They're available as parts for $30 each, but are probably worth it.

 

This is great advice, thank you. I need to read that again.
My truck did come with the OEM Tonneau Cover but now I have a cap installed but installed over the tonneau rails so I should probably order the factory non tonneau rails and install those and then re-install my cap.
My corners do leak and I'm not sure why. I siliconed it on the outside and used foam where there were gaps and it still leaks. The leaks annoy me so much I feel what is the point of even having a cap if its not water tight. My plan this summer is to get it as water tight as I can. I build a pulley in the garage to hoist the cap off so I can remove the bed rail caps and seal them up.
Are you meaning to apply silicone to the bed rail caps and then install them?
I saw some YT video where someone used tape over the bed rails then installed the rail covers. Then I think they even siliconed the edge of where the rail meets the rail cover on the inside of the bed. I think that is what you are referring to instead of the tape?
Thanks for clarification. I can't wait to appreciate my cap the way it was intended. But glad to know I'm not the only one who struggles to have a water tight bed....

 

If it originally had the OEM tonneau cover, then you probably still have the rubber plugs in the front corners. I would keep the tonneau rails. The cutouts in them won't be visible under the camper shell. And also, if you get the non-tonneau rails, you have to notch them for the rubber plugs.

Yes, and apply more sealant to the top of the fender. But don't seal the holes. They are needed to let the water run out harmlessly. You need to seal between the holes and the bed itself (inboard of the holes).

Add silicone under and around the rubber plugs, as well as under the front cap (it removes with 5 Torx screws).

Plug the three 5/16" drain holes in the front of the bed. Also plug the holes in the storage cubbies. (That's a whole subject in itself.)

I did all this in the week between getting my truck and picking up the camper shell. So far, I haven't had any leaks.

 

Thanks so much man. This is detailed. I need to get my shell off and get this shit fixed.

 

Glad I ran into this post as I'm preparing my bed for my camper shell, great information. Thanks.
The only thing I personally am going to do is NOT plug the small drain holes at the front of the bed. I don't need or expect my bed to be absolutely water tight.
Hat's off to you if yours is!

I appreciate all of the knowledge shared on this site, it makes me spend money..

 

When you have a camper shell that's properly seated with a bulb gasket and adequate clamps, the main source of water leakage is from below, not from above. That's why I suggest plugging the drain holes. Use removable plugs available at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. Crawl under the truck and look up. The area between the composite bed and the outer fenders is totally open to the elements. Every time you go over a puddle, water splashes up there. This is a characteristic of the Tacoma more than other trucks.