285/75R17 Perfect Size on 3rd Gen

First gen 2.7's have way better gearing than 3rd gen AT's. Some of those 2.7's came with 4.56's. 3rd gen AT's come with 3.909 gearing.

 

I'd suggest regearing (4.88 or 5.29) and install the OV Tune. Wish I went 5.29 instead of 4.88 but still better than the stock 3.9

Definitely drives better with gears and the tune.

 

Love this thread - hoping it keeps going.

Got a 2020 TRD Pro (army green) currently undergoing an build with King 2.5 front and rear install, Total Chaos UCA replacement, 4.88 regear and upgraded leaf springs. CMC is getting done as part of the build, but still running stock front/rear bumpers. Wanting to run 285/75r/17's KO2's but wondering the best wheel offset to avoid rubbing on the UCA's. I can cut/shape the fenders/wheel wells, but am worried about UCA rubbing. Any advice?

Also, can you go 5 degrees on the caster with stock fenders on this wheel size or does the rubbing get pretty extreme?

 

I'm running SCS with -10 offset. No rub on the UCA's. I think you could be 0 offset and also not rub but not 100% and might depend on the UCA.

Not sure I'm following on the caster question. Are you worried about rubbing the front of the wheel well? Not sure I can answer that since I have an plate bumper with tons of clearance.

Also if it were me, I'd run 5.29's with this tire size.

 

Thanks for the advice on the regear - we had to delay due to a parts issue so I think I'm going to go back to them and have them swap out for 5.29.

Yes, wondering about front wheel well rubbing on the stock bumper if I shift forward the full 5 degrees. I may just have to speed up the bumper replacement to make it a non-issue which I'm fine with. (not sure wife will be)

 

Been looking for this information a lot on the internet and so glad I found this thread.

Current setup: 285/70r17’s on Pro Wheels. 5100s with AAL. Stock UCA’s. Have a CMC done.

Moving to 285/75r17 Yoko Geolandar’s MT. Same wheel (not sure their offset).

Assuming if I have to trim more, it’ll be minimal plastic... correct me if I’m wrong.

Also, I’ve not seen this talked about a lot but when you guys go up in size do you get the speedo and odo recalibrated or do you just let it ride knowing it’s a little off

 

Pinch weld will need to be flattened, heat mold and trimming plastic as well. I still rub on some plastic when off roading but not on the CMC. You'll need your LCA cams adjusted so that the wheel is pushed all the way forward if that hasn't been done already.

I didn't correct my speedo but I know people do it with the Rough Country and Hypertech systems. Adding 10% is pretty easy math and keeps my mileage down

 

I’m not sure if my LCA cams have ever been adjusted or not. Would that be part of the alignment process? No?

 

Unless you have SPC uppers then it's the only way to adjust the alignment. You will need to have them adjusted to max out positive caster, which will push it as far forward as possible.

 

okay so then when I have the tire shop do an alignment, this should be something they’re doing anyway is what you’re saying.. that is if they’re aligning it properly. lol just trying to clarify.

 

When the shop does an alignment, they're gonna try and get all the numbers as close to 0.00 (centered) as possible. If your larger tires rub in the back, the wheels can be pushed forward (positive caster) to help prevent the rubbing - but too much positive caster may cause rubbing in the front.

https://www.comeanddriveit.com/suspension/camber-caster-toe

 

Hey everybody. Got my 34s on today. Love the look! My Taco is slow as hell, but damn does it look good

Question:
I’ve CMCed and pinch welded. I’ve massaged that plastic around the pinch weld and got it shoved back. I’m still getting just the slightest bit of rub in some instances, but I can’t really tell where it’s happening... could be up front. Could be the little bit of plastic on the fender flare on the back. Not sure. Where all did you trim to give these things the most clearance?

 

We meet again Looks awesome! Great choice...viper cut if you don’t want to go steel bumper just yet.

 

You can try pushing the plastic in the front more forward and re-attach. I had rubbing issues in the front so did the same thing.

 

so you cut the black plastic up around the front bumper? I’m thinking they’re just clipping edge of the front bumper right where the black clips to the actual bumper

 

Yes, you can trim or push the plastic further forward, drill new holes into the plastic and re-attach with the existing screws that's already there (under the bumper).

Also, I had to cut off some of the plastic fender behind the front tires. That was where the big rubbing issues where for me.

 

okay cool... I think I know what you mean but if you have any photos of this it’d be appreciated lol

 

285/75R17 BFG KM3s measure 33 inches at 30psi on 8.5 wide wheels

 

Looks awesome. Measured my spare (off the truck) BFG KO2 the other day and it measured 33.75" at 35 PSI.

 

I'm debating between BFG KO2 and Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I'm interested in pictures and actual measurements of weight or diameter. The KO2 is only available in E load where as the Nitto Ridge Grappler is available in C or E. Website lists the KO2 at 60.9 lbs and Nitto lists the C at 65.08 lbs and the E at 64.4 lbs. So it looks like the Nittos are heavier, not sure why the C loads are heavier than the E... hence why I'm interested in actual number if anyone has weight them. I am also interested in reviews from someone who has run both.

Thanks guys