What is this dealership trying to do?

I had a similar experience with a toyota dealership and long story short.... they screwed us around for a week and we found a 21' rig on the lot elsewhere and scored a great deal and went home with it literally while i was getting calls from the other dealer "hey your truck has arrived!"

If it doesn't feel right and you know you're getting jacked around by stupid car sales people, RUN! SCREW THEM!

 

You should not have to fill out anything nor tell them about financial matters. They either have the truck you want or not. If they have to get the truck you want from another dealer that is their problem.

You negotiate the absolute final price including TTL (tax, title, license). Have them write it up and print it out and give you a copy.

I did this with my 2020 TRD OR. Never told them if I was gonna finance or not. They kept asking and I’d steer them back on the price.

Once I got the committed price on paper. I told them I am paying cash. They were so pissed off because they had rolled their finance discount into my final price.

Got a 2020 TRD OR with TTL for $38K, list price $41,800 without TTL.

Point of this long winded reply... Tell those people to get lost.

You need to be treated right and you need a good deal.

 

My 17 was ordered with out any credit being discussed, I did put down a $500 refundable deposit, in fact at one point I had two deposits at two different dealerships. They both knew that who ever got my truck first got the sale, and the prices were with in a few hundred bucks. I bet if I wanted to, I could have not put a deposit down.

 

You are right you should not need a credit app or it even required to start the deal.
Like you I only put a $500 deposit on mine. I was dealing with an internet sales manager by email. I gave them the specs I wanted with a few acceptable color options and they said they could do it for an agreed price.
I did say an approximate down payment, that I had a credit union loan approval and how soon I wanted to buy in the first email so they knew I was serious.

I'm sure they could have asked me to apply with tfs online ahead of time. They didn't. I think that dude that made the ignorant comment is exactly that.

I think for my first time out buying new I did good.

 

Yes

I realized after I posted that I could've been a little clearer on some things. I'm happy with what they found, it's exactly what I asked for with the only unwanted accessory being all weather mats, which is no big deal. The price I'm happy with as well as it's as good of a deal as I could find after contacting several dealerships.

I hadn't considered refinancing, and I have a good credit union through my job so I'll definitely be looking into that as an option. i should be driving it home in a few hours,, I'll be sure to post an update on how it goes

This was their reasoning. They didn't want to do the work to get the truck and then I'm not qualified. I've bought new elsewhere where they only required a deposit, unless they had something on the lot already.

 

Something similar happened to me while I was shopping for a car to replace my totaled Corolla.
I went to a dealership to look at a Tacoma (used) it was in bad shape so I started looking at cars.
The salesman became aggressive with his sales tactics. When he walked away to "talk to his manager", I walked out.

 

It looks like you’re in CT? Was this at the dealership in Milford?

 

No, but I did try there too. They gave me a price of MSRP and refused to budge. When I told them I had 2 other dealers $1,000+ below MSRP already, so thanks but no thanks, he offered me the $1,000 Toyota rebate and worded it as if he was doing me a favor. When I explained that I was aware of what he was doing he said that I was right and that he would come down $500. I already had a lower price elsewhere so I said no thanks.

I had the exact same experience there when I was looking for my 16 Sport.

 

You don't negotiate with the finance guy, you negotiate an OTD price with the salesman who will play the "I have to ask my manager" game.

 

Sounds like a dealer west of San Antonio.... They would'nt give me my keys back when i back out of a shady deal they tried to get me to sign! I started to call the cops and started yelling at the floor desk, They finally gave in.

 

So just throwing this out there. I am a auto broker on the side. I negotiate with dealerships on behalf of my customer to get the best possible deal.

Ill start with they dont need your credit until the deal is done in principle and they need to run it to confirm financing/ interest rates. If they ask just say no I don't want my credit run until I'm ready.

The dealer using there financing is not bad, you can get rates from your bank or credit union. But do not tell them you plan to use outside financing or pay cash until price is negotiated.

For probably 95% of my customer's thr dealer can and will get you a better interest rate. You can even tell then the best rate you have gotten and ask them to beat it I do that often. You have to look at this way, a dealer finances a lot of people every month. They deal with lots of banks and credit unions who want there buisness, the credit union that gave you a say 3% will without a doubt give a dealer they do buisness with a point less, knowing they can get multiple customers through the dealer.

If you walk in say im paying cash or I have my own financing I can guarantee you will pay more for the vehicle. They certainly make money on the loans but so does you bank, they may just get a flat kick back.

I saw one comment saying the salesman was trying to meet his end of month quota, most salesman dont have one, the dealer has many end of month goals with the manufacturer. The reason you get better deals at the end of the month is they know what number they need to hit for there incentives. Example toyota dealer has sold 192 units they are inline for a kick back from toyota of $100 per until , but if they sell 200 they get a $200 kick back per unit sold. So it only makes sense for a sales manager to really discount even lose money on the last 8 to meet that goal.

Know what you want who has and availability, there are resources for this. The Tacoma Offroad has the highest inventory of all Tacoma is the US by a good margin always does paying MSRP would not even be in my realm of possibility, I'd be looking for 5 to 8% off before any factory incentives.

If anyone ever has any questions about a deal they are doing it want to do PM me. Like I said I have a full time job but I love car sales and buying and turned that into a side job, so I tend to be up to date on what's going on, and have access to some pretty good resources. Not trying to make buisness for myself im only licensed in MN and only do one customer at a time just want to help people with what can be a confusing stressful process.

 

It's up to the OP, if he's satisfied with the truck and deal, then good deal. All of our better experiences don't help at all now, good luck with the new truck, I'm sure you'll like it, it seems it was just what you're looking for.

 

Same here, l put 250 down when l ordered and they never even cashed the check. Financing wasn't discussed until 4 months later on the day l was buying the truck.

 

its 100% this.

I worked in car sales for 6 months. Never again. I routinely saw the sales managers pull someone’s credit, see them get approved for a 0.9% - 1.9%, then tell the finance manager to go out and tell them the best rate they found was a 4.9% - 5.49%. Because the stealership gets a kickback from the bank for getting the more profitable interest rate. It should be illegal. They also routinely racked on about $1,000 worth of bullshit fees and accessories. One of their favorite was a paint protectant service. IT DIDNT EXIST. It was around $250 if I remember correctly, and it came with a warranty against scuffs and abrasions, with a TON of fine print that made the whole thing a scam. No one in the shop EVER sprayed any of our new cars down with ANY product.

you go into a dealership with your own financing ready to go. You ask for invoice price on the car. They’ll tell you it isn’t possible. You tell them you know about the “holdback”: the money the manufacturer gives them for shifting a unit. Even at invoice they still make money. If they don’t want the deal, leave.

 

Sounds like you're in the middle of this situation OP.


https://youtu.be/0S9cQOPxzfg


This is a great video for anyone looking to get a vehicle.

 

Kevin Hunter has great car buying videos. Here is another:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hWyaHlRqUA

 

I got the truck.

The sales guy barely spoke to me, as did the finance guy. Only said what was necessary. They clearly did not like me, and since I know they're both scumbags the feeling was obviously mutual. This made the whole thing go WAY smoother.

They skipped the accessory, GAP, and prepaid service BS altogether. All he did was slide over a paper on Toyota's VSA and kept it moving.

The truck was $129 more than the one I was quoted on, because it has all weather mats instead of carpeted. They ate the difference.

They were definitely playing games with the APR. I asked about rates from specific banks in the area and was told they didn't check with any of them.

We may just refinance, but the 1% or less difference is somewhat negligible. (They gave us 1.99%)


I love the truck. The OR handles the shitty CT back roads much better than my Sport. I'll post pics if it ever stops raining

 

Excellent, and we love pictures, wet or not.....

 

1.99 % isn’t bad at all

 

Definitely some red flags in that initial post. However, it doesn’t hurt your credit to run the loan quote through them as well (within 30 days it doesn’t harm credit scores). To be honest, I’ve found better rates at the dealer than my personal bank/CU and don’t hesitate to see what they can offer me (if they get kickbacks so be it, I still get my deal). When we bought my current truck I got it for 2.9 via dealer and everywhere else was offering 3.9+. Didn’t matter either way for us as in e intended to pay it off within 6 months anyhow but still opted for the dealer rate. Only time I’ve had better rates via USAA was using their car buying program promo years ago and got it for 0.9% lol