Leer 100XQ. I'M IN LOVE!

Here are a few pictures of the test fit if anyone wants an idea what a 100xq looks like with an UpTop Overland Bravo set up. Keep in mind this was a test fit, so be gentle on me....

@daveeasa just so he can see I actually do own a truck

 

Good to know. I want them to be even when I order mine. I have the cab one ordered.

 

Would love to see a pic of your setup.

 

Thank you! Someday when it’s ready for prime time, I’ll put up some more pictures.

 

@tjpratt
@02Duck
@JordanSmith127
@BT17
@Hydro915
@coolguy45
@Puppypunter

The 100XQ is in the top 3, I am considering for my LB.
On the LEER website, it lists standard features only.
Are there additional options and upgrades available? IE: Window screens, lighting, electric lock, etc?
I know roof racks and such are available, but I'm looking for specific model, canopy upgrades, mainly.
Is this a part of consideration/upgrade, that needs to be learned by going to see the dealer directly?

Your input is appreciated.

 

I ordered one. I believe @Puppypunter pointed me to the wired lock add on. I need to get it ordered. Working on a 6 pin connector for stop, ground, lock, unlock, and two for dome lights off my Switch-Pros. I’ll try to remember to post some photos.

 

The only decision I made with mine was sliding removable front window.

 

The front window option is a good one to have.
The 6-pin connector, I may be interested in that as well. If you plan to release them to the wild.

Thanks for your reply.

 

The problem with trying to do toppers as a plug and play is in the topper itself. I’m sure @daveeasa could design a nice 6 pin connector that flush mounts in the bed and has the appropriate leads that would be plug and play where they can be (brake, maybe lock and unlock if you have the OEM kit, ground, and maybe a bed light option if you want the topper light to work off of it and have an OEM kit there as well) and a run to the battery if you want an option for the topper light to work anytime off a hot tap. But even after all those variables, you still have the topper side of those wires that still have to be terminated. So it just makes it too prohibitive for something to be sold remotely. That being said, anyone in the Denver metro that would be interested, I’m sure I can hook you up, but it has to be above 45° at least

 

Wish I was close to your locale. I'm 15 miles from falling in the Pacific.
My concerns with having the canopy installed, regarding wiring, that's a priority.
My take on these new Tacoma's, and all the computers, is if something is done incorrectly, it sends the system into cardiac arrest.
Many can do wiring, like myself. I would rather not touch it, by splice. I'll let someone more knowledgeable mess with it, but there will be no splicing whatsoever.

 

We could probably help with brake taps though. For th

Johnny or I can get you a plug and play T harness for the 3rd brake light if that’s a priority.

We haven’t found the connector that it ships with yet. The thing is, you can squeeze bare wires through the bed but you’d have to drill for a connector to fit.

There isn’t any solution which doesn’t involve some work. But we can at least help you avoid any installer damage to your OEM wiring harness.

 

I would be appreciative, with getting a harness made. I'm a very literate person, mechanically, and do have the necessary tools on-hand, if need be.
I like things to be "clean", and LOOK like it was meant to be. Not a bunch of "outta sight-outta mind", get it done workmanship.
If you (or Johnny) can get the harness to me, plug-n-play, with a bit of modifying on my part, I'm all for it.
End result, all said and done, I would like the termination, canopy-to-truck, to be a simple, un-plug, and remove the canopy.

 

Do u have stock suspension ? With bigger tires ? Looks good .

 

I can sell you the one I built last week if you have your shell coming soon, I have 8-10 weeks before mine might be ready. I only did one wire for power though, figured I'd do a chassis ground. I can get you a photo of it tomorrow night (out of town right now.)

@Puppypunter or anyone else please confirm

$130 Pop & Lock PL9772 Remote Keyless Entry Lock Kit for Truck Cap and Tonneau Cover

this is the correct power lock for Leer 100XQ

 

Even for someone with the OEM tailgate lock, I'm having some trouble sourcing the female on that sucker. Corsa has the male but 7283-7028-30 mating female just seems a bit elusive. Since it's already an add on harness I'm fairly tempted to just cut it and use any 2 pin sealed connector I feel like to get the tap, possibly the reverse connector. But I'm in a bit of a special situation because I already swapped male and female so that the male would sit on the mounting clip nicely and I can quickly remove the tailgate without cutting a zip tie.

 

I have not ordered mine, yet. Still saving for a month or two yet, as I want to pay cash.
Hopefully I can place an order before Summer. Maybe your source (by then) will get the connectors that are necessary.
I also have the RSI SmartCap on my list to consider for a topper. I'd sure like to see and touch one to help me make a decision.

 

I bought the PL9555. IIRC, the directions were for the 9555 and the 9772, so both might work?

$215 Pop & Lock PL9555 Keyless Remote Entry Kit (with Handle), Black

AmazonSmile: Pop & Lock PL9555 Keyless Remote Entry Kit (with handle): Automotive

As to the lock connector:

$15 1x Connector 2-way 2 pin for Ambient Temperature Sensor 90980-11070 w/out wire

Amazon.com: 1x Connector 2-way 2 pin for Ambient Temperature Sensor 90980-11070 w/out wire: Automotive

Edit: I just looked at the 9772 vs the 9555. Seems the 9555 comes with the handle where the 9772 does not. I believe the leer handle will work though.

 

This is doable on a small, custom built scale. I'm sure between Dave and I we could get that done, but the issue is going to be in the disconnect from the truck to the topper. If you want to tackle learning some crimping, you would be able to do it. Dave lives in California, not sure how close to you (from Denver, anything west of Nevada is beach front property), but that might be an option too? It all comes down to that pesky topper wiring. I can make you a harness that damn near does anything you would want (mine does Alarm LED, Alarm triggers, dome light, brake light, defroster, and lock/unlock) and terminate the ends to where you just have to get the terminals through a hole and then push them in the housing, but I can't do that as easily for the topper side of those devices. Does that make sense? I'm willing to try, but it would be a lot of shipping after you measure and cut.

 

I understand.
I'm glad to have had the opportunity to speak, about my needs, and your (and Daves) experience with dealing with the electrical portions of the truck.
I'm not opposed to using a probe/test light or meter to narrow things down for the final connections. I solder and shrink-wrap whenever I do any 12v wiring.
I avoid butt/end-connectors. Actually hate them with a passion, too generic.
I would assume your wiring is color matched to the vehicles?
As an end product, would it be too much to ask, that the leads to the topper get labelled what's/what when time comes, if I have you (or Dave) build one for me?
The K.I.S.S method always seems to play out better. LOLOL!!

I'll keep all your and Daves info in mind, when I get more near the time of getting the topper. Worse case scenario, the topper won't have power for a time. No big deal.

 

I always try to color coordinate for most things. Some things its hard (like the topper lock. The lock itself has different colors than the OEM tailgate lock, that kind of thing). And I can label everything, that isn't an issue. If you are comfortable soldering, that may be another option. I can send the topper side of the plug with wire leads that you would then solder to the topper devices in the field. Just keep me posted when you start planning this out, and hopefully I can be of assistance