Clean VHF/CB radio installs

Very parallel to my thoughts... Ground would be easy enough to accommodate, but the tree-whacking is a real concern, spring or not, there's always some force to be resolved by those tiny-ass screws...

 

This is...almost exactly what I'm looking for. I DO have the cali-raised mount, but already have a second cable planned for the summer once it warms up.....

ANYWAY, I had a few questions:

1. Where does the cable go up in the back? I am probably going to have to find a way to get mine in with the cali-raised one, but long term I'm not attached to it, I could be convinced to get it inside the bed like yours. Just curious. I have also seen the folding mounts, which would be pretty sweet, put it inside the bed and fold it down when I'm not using it.

2. Where did you route it into the cab, did you come up under the center console with that grommet?

3. How did you run power, direct to battery? That's my plan - right now I got a trailer brake connector and hacked it up and connected to + and GND off that. but likely to move to direct to battery. Kind of jimmy rigging this now, as long as it works, it works, road trip end of March but after that once it warms up and I have more time not freezing my balls off I will do a better install.

Thanks!

PS - Same radio. I'm planning to put the cat connector in one of the center stack switch blanks and have that plug in there. Haven't decided where to mount the mic yet.

 

Cool shit. Thanks for the questions.
To answer call your questions. I ran the cable between the body panels in a little gap. I had to loosen the bed rail tie down and separate it a little to get the coax nut through the panels. I ran the cable down the frame, obviously, then up through a factory grommet under the driver's seat.

For the power i did my own Jerry rigging. I tapped into the cigarette outlet under the center console. I wanted it to power on with the truck. I'm gonna change that a little later be that's a whole new build.

If there is anything I missed let me know. Good luck with your build.

 

you get any interference on that circuit? I’m using the trailer brake harness adapter, I just tuned it tonight. I was able to get a conversation on 21 but nothing elsewhere and SWR was about 2.5 on 19.

cool beans - I have my wire running along the bed rail to the front and then through that gap. I will probably reroute it similar to yours though or through the brake light if I keep that location for my antenna.

Thanks again! I’m getting there, just need some final tweaks.

 

Oh wait I forgot to ask how did you get the cup holder out? If I can do that easily then that removes about 95% of the disassembly I was planning on having to do. Im using that driver seat grommet right now but will probably run a new cable mine got nicked on install, not a huge deal just the outer I can patch that easily but it’s kind of a hack job right now anyway so I want to get it done goodly.

 

I honestly have no clue with the interference. I haven't even tuned mine yet, my dad was gonna help me. I have I have a 3 and 4 foot. He said "I have to tune the sticks"!? He may just be making up some b.s. to see me. I'm a nubie with radios. I haven't read too much into it. I got mine more for emergencies. I enjoy moding more than anything else. I'm pretty sure you just pull up on the cup holder to get it out.

 

I just finished installed the

$165 Midland MXT275 MicroMobile® GMRS Radio – 15 watts Two-Way Radio with Integrated Control Microphone – Overland Caravanning Tractors – Detachable External Magnetic Mount Antenna - 8 Repeater Channels

Midland MXT275 and am really happy with how sexy and clean this looks. Had a few ideas and was able to make it ultra clean. So Happy. Here's the pics.

Had a giant strip of epic velcro and the carpet is sooo perfect for velcro it doesn't make sense to do it any other way.




Get those wires nice and clean!








Antenna wire comes out with the airbag harness conduit. And the excess wires are all wrapped up in a self-velcro strap that also sticks to the carpet. I put the radio unit in the indented front corner closest to the console to give me the most space for the microphone cord. The USB and RJ45 just about mash up against the carpet.

I'm not sure I'm a fan of the magnetic antenna from the kit. 1. The coupler ring didn't come off like in other videos so it made a giant hole in the firewall (which I'll need for a few more things then I'll seal it up). 2. it's not flexible so I will probably have to unscrew it for car washes. 3. It's kinda ugly.

Once my ditch lights come in I'll consider magnetizing it to an extension plate or getting the stealth antenna, plate and new cable from Midland (about $65), which means I'll have to redo the wiring.



OK so to the really clean part.

The power cable AND a USB cable for phone charging go up into the console. The USB cord (kevlar sheath) goes back down and out the passenger side while the power is taped up and hidden nicely. Here's the progression:







Now my wife/passenger can charger their phone in the little side cubby.





So I like the idea of the handset being in the console like I saw on others but I actually will probably just leave it where I mounted it instead. Because It's even less messy. This means I'd have to fuss with it every time I want to close the lid.



I really enjoy that my hand fits here so I can pull it straight up and also change the volume and other buttons without looking. Might just keep it here since it blends in.

 

I would stick with a

$38 pl259 USA made PL-259 improved double shielded rg-58u for firestik antenna K-8A 18-foot single cb/ham coax cable

pl259 style IMO, NMO are good for roofs etc, but there can/may be a chance of bending some metal with the NMO mount depending on how still your antenna is, if it has a spring load in it, or can simple just bend over like most diamond and comets can. Especially on the trails not where where you are at but, trees, and high brush like manzanita , pinion can/may bend your antenna.

 

All are great ideas

My issue is how the hell do I get coaxial cable routed from the interior to the future 3/4 hole I need to bore the center of my roof?

It's a DCLB power sliding window & no sunroof

 

Somebody I know did this. Also a dirt limo, but I have a sunroof, you will have a bit more freedom than me.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...callsign-thread.260643/page-146#post-15166598

 

That's nice to know for whatever reason assumed these trucks had a double roof skin not just a single outer one.

 

Nope. The hardest part is convincing yourself that it's just sheet metal and you've drilled that stuff often enough.

 

Yea & not only that NEVER use a hole saw those things make the hole to big, use a Rotobroach there a helova lot more accurate in sheet metal.

 

I saw a video that said wrapping up your cable that way could cause problems. I'm certainly no expert...

 

I was one of the first people to buy and install the 275 and it’s a great entry-level radio if you dont need to reach repeaters with different PL tones for TX/RX.

Using what you got, you can make this get much better TX/RX by looping the antenna feedline right under the antenna like this.

Next, cut off the DC adapter and run the red hot wire through the firewall all the way to the battery so the fuse is close to the battery. Cut the black negative as short as possible so it can reach the seat mounting bolt and install it on the post with a ring terminal.

If you get more into radio, eventually you’ll realize that the only way to maximize effectiveness is to drill a hole w a proper NMO holesaw in dead center of roof for the antenna and install a proper NMO mount and antenna tuned to the GMRS center frequency of 464.6MHz (465 is great).

 

An antenna hole saw is even better. It's built to limit how deep the hole is so you don't poke through the head liner. Also, it has a rim that strips the paint uniformly around the hole for proper grounding.

 

Correct. As much of a pain in the ass it is to not coil it up like that, your better off routing around the interior. Just lift up carpet and pop some trim panels up and you will get much better results.

 

You are correct. The antenna line should either be cut or run around the cab. Coiling it up like that can cause it to act like an induction coil.

 

Hey @5nahalf dont try to remove that cat5 switch blank. That bitch does NOT want to come out. Broke mine getting it out. Back to the old setup of just having it come out the side near my foot. Once I use it for this road trip it’ll be the deciding factor of if I keep it or just ditch the thing.

switch blank came out a okay. That Ethernet pass through for the cb did not.

 

OH dang, I just left mine in all the time.