low automatic transmission fluid

Every tacoma I've serviced only has 3.5L so they all must be low.

Odd because I put in 4L and watch it trickle out.

Maybe I'm the problem?

 

Thats correct if actually a case of low atf. Its like everything today, manufactures have made products unserviceable to the average user. Anything of value is usually serviceable to their factory trained techs. You just need to rely the manufacture did the job right when building the product...thats what warranties are for.

 

FWIW. Many of you would consider me an "old fart".

I run a Gen2. Last October, I drained fluid and changed the filter in my AT. Drained out a little over 3.5 quarts. Used the AT Temp sequence to verify proper fill. 1st trial, nothing drained out the Check plug. After a couple more iterations, I added 6 quarts total. So, my tranny was about 2.5 quarts low.

After the task was complete, my butt dyno, noticed the shifting was exceptionally smooth. I had to watch the tach for the shift points.

As an engineer, I completely understand the reason major components need to be sealed against the YouTube mechanic.

 

I, too, am an "old fart" AND a retired engineer...

 

You DO NOT have to jump any ODBC pins if you have a 2020 or above. Here is the procedure I followed:

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AC60F (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION / TRANSAXLE): AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID: ADJUSTMENT; 2020 Tacoma

To enter automatic transmission fluid temperature detection mode:

Depress and hold the brake pedal.
Start the engine. [#1]
Turn off electrical and mechanical loads

Slowly move the shift lever from P to S, then move the shift lever to P. ~3 seconds each position [#2]

While observing the D shift indicator on the combination meter, move the shift lever back and forth between N and D at an interval of less than 1.5 seconds for 12 seconds or more. [#3]

Perform #1, #2, & #3 within 60 seconds

Check that the D shift indicator comes on for 2 seconds.

Move the shift lever from N to P.

Release the brake pedal.

Allow the engine to idle until the automatic transmission fluid temperature reaches 35 to 45°C (95 to 113°F). The D shift indicator will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 35°C (95°F) and will blink when it exceeds 45°C (113°F).
Performing this operation will cause the vehicle to enter fluid temperature detection mode and engine idle speed control mode. In engine idle speed control mode, engine idle speed control starts when the fluid temperature reaches the specified temperature and the engine speed is maintained.
**********************************************************************************************************

I'm attaching the "official" procedure for the 3rd gens. I believe it is correct with the exception that you should not connect a SST to jump the ODBC pins as described in the "not using Techstream" instructions for => 2020 models.

 

I’m okay with transmission dipsticks going away, My GF’s Boxster S doesn’t even have an engine oil dipstick but has an easy way to check the level via a menu on the dash. It was weird at first but I’m used to it now.

I just wish Toyota made it easier to check the trans oil temp. My ‘17 F-550 takes two or three presses of the menu buttons on the steering wheel to see what the current Trans oil and engine oil temps are. There’s really no reason why on a modern car you should have to do a one-armed dance with the gear selector in order to access it.

 

hopefully you didnt try to put 5-6 quarts more in it. read the manual, perform the service, fill, and test, to bring it to factory spec... DONT GUESS! Ski

 

I fully criticize Toyota for this. It would be so easy for them to display that temp number in the dash digital screen. It would have cost them nothing at all. Just a couple lines of code. It would be so nice to know you are not roasting your Auto towing a trailer up a steep grade.

 

For my Ford, we had an OBD Scan tool that would display transmission temp and other parameters.

Time to build a CAN sniffer tool?

 

Just add 3.3 quarts and you'll be fine.

 

I, too, am an "old fart" AND a retired Industrial mechanic. We did the work you engineers talked about.

 

Especially since they removed the transmission coolers mid-cycle on the 2020s thats the least they could do

 

Late 2020. Mine has the cooler built 11/19.

 

I had just been reading up on servicing Toyota transmissions because my wifes 13 Sienna has 67000 miles and I thought it was over due for a new filter and fluid. From what I understand the fluid does not need to be changed anymore unless the vehicle has heavy duty usage and then it is at every 60000 miles. The stealerships will recommend oil changes sooner so they can hit you for $400 to change it.
I saw several mechanics say to change it at 90000 miles while the transmission is still in decent condition. Also said to do a slow change by draining the pan and then filling back up what came out. There is no dipstick to check. Do it again a week later and again the week after to dilute the old fluid out. The idea is to have the fluid make a gradual change in the system to avoid any potential problems with the transmission being older and worn. I guess fresh fluid is thicker and your tranny has been running on thin fluids for some time. Also you have to measure what comes out so you know how much to put back in. The warranty says for the life of the car but mechanics are saying try to collect anything when it fails because the fluid is shot when you have 150000 miles on it. I am not a mechanic but I was just reading this over the weekend.

 

One of my classics was an industrial controller, about 1995. We had built and prototyped in Texas. Everything worked fine. All documentation sent to Hong Kong, their first production build failed. Oh boy. Two weeks back and forth, so I was on a plane. 14-hour flight I kept thinking of "what if's" got in late, told my counterparts "we still have a few hours let's get to work".

Looking over the board, started scoping signals and kept thinking "why is this signal so attenuated?" SMD components were fairly new, but if they used a 200K resister when a 200 Ohm was called for. Uh oh. I asked for spare parts and a soldering iron. I was told, "sorry their technician had left for the day". Fine, I'll do it myself. "We thought they were sending an Engineer, we didn't realize you were a technician". I just smiled, and replace the part. Spent my time looking for other mistakes, but just the one. Schematic and BOM were good.

Fired up the system and it worked fine. All three engineers were staring at their feet. Not only had they insulted me, but made a major troubleshooting blunder. I smiled and nodded and said, "We found the first issue, but since I am here for two weeks why not make sure there are no others while you tell your boss we are working on the issue?" Never seen such big smiles.

Next two weeks we did classes about the systems and how to troubleshoot in the morning, spent that afternoon "team-building" It was a success and I ended up with three new friends who requested me for any future issues.

I may be "just" an Electronics Engineer but at home under the hood of a vehicle, hand on TIG welding a fixture, or deep in the bowels of a boiler (after tripling checking all lockout boxes). Just get the job done. I've had one hell of a fun ride, but still love that challenge of solving things.

 

My newish base model F150 I drive for work has a gauge in the cluster. I rented a Dodge Charger on a job out of town recently and it was a menu item on the screen. It’s totally lame that Toyota can’t give us this simple info without a scanguage or OBD reader.

 

Change it yourself.

Faye does a fine job of explaining the procedure here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej_6BZpK3gg

Make sure you have the correct fluid going back in. Toyota changed to "WS" World Service but that is not generic Dextron.

The old fluid will have the same viscosity (much thinner than motor oil) but the old stuff will turn brown with age (oxidation, material, heat) newer stuff being translucent. Usually, the smell is most noticeable on old fluid. If I spotted a Chevy with 200,000 miles it's already toast but adding in fresh transmission fluid will just hasten the death (bands are still grabbing, but get too slick with new fluids. Under 100,000 miles I'll change fluid). Most of my vehicles hit 300,000 easy, but don't overlook brake, clutch, and power steering fluids!

"Quick service places" had a machine to pressurize the system to exchange all fluid, but those bits and pieces that settled out are forced back into all those passages. I like "drain three, fill three" it's more time-consuming but less likely to cause damage down the road. I hear stories "I have 150,000 miles on my Toyota, but it was just serviced 20,000 miles ago". Yet I hear of 300,000-mile Camrys that were never touched.

 

Ford really puts Toyota to shame in the info-tech department. I get oil pressure and tranny temp, and even engine hours.

 

As someone who has very little mechanical experience, but understands the concepts, the DIY vs having a pro do it is always a struggle for me. I want to expand my knowledge, but also want to be able to drive my truck after... Anytime specialized equipment its required, such as the Taco tranny it's an easy decision. It doesn't hurt my ego any to have some kid half my age do something for me when they have the right tools and experience. The dealer I use in NH has been great, and when I've asked them to check something and then gone back to look for evidence they did, I've always found that whatever part/reservoir/item has been opened, tooled on or whatever. I check my fluids every two weeks religiously (it coincides with my work cycle so its easy to remember) but anytime I have questions its either log on here or call the dealer, saves me from expensive DIY "learn the hard way" moments.

 

RE: Your van - It is 8 years old and has 67,000 miles, if I intended to keep it another 8 years I would service the transmission. Use the correct Toyota specification fluid, a trustworthy independent shop should be able to do the job for less than the dealer.

Changing fluid isn't about thicker or thinner, it is about worn out additives that:
1) protect the fluid from breaking down under high temperatures
2) stop deposits from forming.

I do the slow change on old neglected equipment because there may be a lot of deposits in the transmission. New fluid has full strength additives which may break down the deposits fast just like putting a very dirty pan in the dishwater. You don't want all that stuff released at once as it can cause problems.

By changing 10 - 20 percent of the fluid out you get some fresh additives in there to do some cleaning, just not too violently. On the older cars with a transmission dipstick I use a suction gun, measure the amount removed and replace it. I will do it every time I change the (engine) oil and after several cycles pull the pan and change the filter. I do the same with power steering fluid.