Thoughts on O2 Simulator's;

URD, or Empire???

My main concern is install. If I have to throw back on the Cats, would be hard to return the original sensor wiring.

Empire is plug and play, but cost $135 more.

I am soon to be purchasing DT Long tubes. (Sick and tired with the issues my JBA's are giving me. Was going to trade them out w/another member, but just confirmed leak @ the flange.

Soo, long story short, need a new set. Like what I hear about DT's. Just need some advice on wether an additional $5 for the URD is a smarter deal, or should I invest in the Empire set up.

Empire: http://www.empirepao.com/ (Click on left for O2 sim)
URD: come on if you dont have it in your favorites by now, you just cant handle the truth, LOL!!!!

Thanks.

 

ed lots of people mess up when they do the o2 sensors when they get the long tubes.... its hard... if u can maybe have a reputable shop do the o2 sensors, but alot of shops dont even wanna mess with those things cuz their so sensitive.... you good with wires?

 

Wouldn't it be easier to get new gaskets, for inbetween the flanges? I always used felpro and don't recall having any trouble with them.

 

Thanks guys, here is the deal;

Took off Headers, Always thought that I had some minor leaks. Well. I got the Bung welded on for the wideband, and went to the stealership to get some new gaskets. Had the JBA Gaskets before and they worked fine, but they were out of stock. After installin the above said gaskets and replacing the headers, I noticed that all was flushed except the passenger side header flange. There is a gap between the middle studs and the front studs. Used a stethescope and sure enough, flutterring sound upon reving the motor. This sound is not produced anywhere else except this direct location. Detached Header, reinstalled bolting center studs and than working the outer ones and no change.

I believe they are warped. Might have been that way but did not notice, since the JBA gaskets were thicker, and had some type of felt. But with stock gaskets it is damn noticeable.

so I'd try new gaskets, but after reading this, do you think that could still be the prob???

 

I recommed the Urd o2 sim. Its very simple to install. Theres only 6 wires to splice and its only 5 dollars if u buy it with the dt longtubes. Putting the wires back to stock would be very easy.

 

Ok so when you say easy & splice; what are we really talking bout... I dont know how to solder. Can I just use some type of connector to splice in. And you are saying that it wont screw up the stock wire schematic if I wanted to plug back in some O2 sensors.

Sorry for all the questions, but it seems you have done this mod.

Thanks

 

The 6 wires are splice to the connector from the ecu. Theres 2 wires that tap in for power and ground. The other 4 wires u splice for the o2 sensor wires.You can use wire tap- squeeze in connector and crimp connector if u dont know how to solder. I got the instructions if u want to look at them.

 

Cool if you got them on digits that would be great. Appreciate the help...

 

The signal from the rear O2 sensor is very important for proper engine control.

Those rear sensors are used for more than just checking the health of the cats.

Our simulator is more than your typical rear O2 sim that replaces the signal with an internally generated signal. Ours are carefully calibrated to keep the MIL off, while allowing all the normal operation if important systems and background monitor tests.

The background monitor tests run without your knowledge and test different systems. When these test fail to complete you do not always get a MIL. The rear O2 sensor test is one of these that checks for proper operation of the rear O2 sensors by looking for parallel signals from the front and rear sensors. If the true signal from the rear sensor is not getting through this monitor may not properly clear and you will fail a plug in emission test.

More importantly, the rear sensors are important for normal engine operation. The new style front sensors, air fuel ratio sensors, are wideband units and need to be recalibrated to compensate for sensor degradation as the sensors age. This is done using the rear sensors to recalibrate the front ones.

Those of you that are running Innovate wideband display units know that you have to recalibrate the wideband sensors every so often for a proper reading. The stock uses the signal from the rear sensors to do this.

The rear switching type sensors are very accurate right at 14.7:1 AFR. It uses this point for the recalibration process of the front sensors so it can maintain accurate fuel control.

If you replace the signal from the rear O2 sensor with a falsely generated signal then the recalibration process is skewed to a false signal that may not be anywhere near 14.7:1 AFR.

Our design is carefully calibrated to allow the background monitor tests to properly function and clear so you can pass a plug in emission test and it allows for the proper recalibration of the front air fuel ratio sensors.

Gadget

 

I was really looking for a true comparison between the URD and the Empire. I know some folks on this site have the Empire. I dont doubt URD's products, just doubt my wiring capabilities. Thats why I opted for the plug & play for the MAF.

I guess I will really have to learn how do some soldering, cause i'll be damed if I pay 140 bones for a product that is not equall w/URD.

I will keep y'all posted. Should have new Headers in Jan. 09, New Years gift to myself