Tacoma IMMOBILIZED

So my 2016 taco dcsb (manual) is immobilized, cranks, catches, dies immediately... checked MAF, checked battery, checked fuel pump, keys no longer communicating with immobilizer according to obd2 scan, key relearn and resets apparently arent working according to the dealer (where its been the last 5 days) anyone know how to bypass the immobilizer? This is supposed to be an expedition build, if my taco gonks out in the arctic circle or something because of an immobilizer it probably wouldnt be that good for my state of aliveness...

 

Help in the title is reserved for people stuck or in immediate danger. You might consider renaming your thread.

 

There are very few things that I recommend going to the dealer for, but immobilizer issues would be one. It sounds like your BCM may well be having issues; of course it could be a downstream component, but again, dealerships are generally the best equipped to deal with these very, very brand-specific issues.

 

Crazy idea here, but maybe try another dealer?

 

I just want to chime in to say that if you are above the Artic Circle (or anywhere) your state of aliveness shouldn't hinge on your vehicle starting/running. You're already on the back foot if this is the case. Be prepared for something like this. There's many more reasons why you could find yourself dealing with a dead truck.

Also.... I second going to another dealer to get this sorted. Hopefully it can be dealt with and the issue doesn't crop up again.

 

Just thinking out loud but was the truck either jump-started or used to jump-start another vehicle?
Unfortunately I've seen problems after a vehicle has been jump started.

Also try another dealer. Quality varies all over the map unfortunately.

IIRC the immobilizer disables the fuel pump circuit. For testing purposes I believe it's possible to jumper the fuel pump circuit and see if the vehicle will run.
My point: one needs a sharp diagnostic tech who understands the Toyota wiring diagrams...
As this is a consistent massive failure it should be relatively easy to diagnose. It's NOT a pesky intermittent failure.
Good luck.

 

Not sure what may be the problem, but is your truck under warranty?

 

Truck was not used to jump another vehicle and is no longer under warranty, im trying to bypass the dealer completely as they will probably try and fork 4k out of me for a new ecu, key coil and what ever else they can think of, i already asked them if they could just bypass it and they said it was required by federal law so they would not so lets forget the dealer entirely id rather do it myself

 

What mods have you done to the truck...

 

It has a light bar wired in with a relay and fuse, thats the only real electrical stuff thats been touched so far

 

You are going to require the wiring schematic for the BCM and immobilizer circuit. It may not be a simple cut and go sort of deal like it has been in the past for other vehicles. It may involved cutting and soldering in resistors or something the likes. Be prepared to have an in-depth knowledge of how the system works because if it doesn't you are screwed wherever you did your work. Make sure you have a back up vehicle just in case.

 

Where in the States are you?

 

Up in the great white north of Canada sadly

 

Same here, Alberta...somehow I thought you were in the States. Sorry buddy...have you plugged in a code reader to perhaps narrow it down?

 

Did you wire that directly to the battery or did you tap into an existing circuit?

 

So far the obd2 scanner just says that the keys arent talking to the immobilizer and toyota hasnt been able to reset them for some unknown reason

 

Straight to the battery the switch is back lit off the cigarette lighter wire

 

how long ago did this jerry rigging take place

 

2017 so if it was that it sure took its time

 

Yea most of the time electrical mods are good to go if the work the first time. However, wires can rub and ground out over time.