DiamondBack Covers | Modifications

This was the second time I’ve tightened it, so fingers crossed.

 

Have you guys ever seen Diamondback do a sale for tax season? Or should I just suck it up and order now?

 

This thread has been awesome for information. I'm looking for an inexpensive way to mount a few kids bikes to my SE on a Sierra 1500. I'm towing a trailer and have a tongue bike rack for two bikes, but I need a spot for 3 more. I'm having a hard time justifying the $499 for the Frontrunner Rack + the ~$100+/ea for bike racks for it



Would it work to run this along the front of my cover with a few bolts?

I could then pick up 3 fork mounts at $24.95/ea to be < $200 vs $800+ using the front runner rack.

For the rear tires, I'm thinking of just ratchet strapping them down

 

The only one I have.

 

@Delta139 I just got in my rack, It is the four legs and plates for the tops/sides of the front two and rear two. All I can say is holy crap this stuff is heavy. Total weight of 161lbs in the mail. If I went ahead and got everything else, it would have been WAY heavier.

 

Any of you guys running a whip with a flag for the sand dunes? If so I'm curious how you mounted it with the cover.

 

I did something similar to what you’re describing...I have (2) fork mounts that I just bolted through the diamondback cover itself. Regarding the rear tires I use straps as you describe. The one thing I will say is that it is very helpful to have a couple cleats on the rear of the cover as opposed to just the sides. Strapping down to just the sides has a tendency to pull the bike in one direction or the other (even when running from one side cleat to the one on the opposite side) which I think puts a lot of stress on the front fork mount

 

I received the Rocky Mount track yesterday. I am thinking that 3 drill holes would be sufficient since I read the Front Runner track only needs 3 holes. Instead of drilling, I am toying with the idea of running a ratchet strap through it

The ratchet strap has a working load limit of 450lbs.

The bar shifts back and forth since I have the rubber feet removed. I could cut a hole through the rubber feet to let the ratchet strap come through which should tighten it up

I'm not a ratchet strap pro -- so I'm curious to hear if anyone thinks this is an unsafe idea or if it's sound. I will only use the mount a few times per year so I'm looking for an easy way to remove it.

Fork mounts go on the track and 3 kids bikes are going on it with the rear wheels secured with a ratchet strap.

UPDATE: On further reflection this doesn't seem like a good idea. Kudos to @HelloMyNameIs for suggesting rivetnuts / nutserts. Looks like exactly what I need. I was thrown initially by open ended nutserts -- thinking closed end is the way to go to be water tight.

 

It sounds a little unsafe to me.

If I were in this case I would drill the holes and put some nutserts in. Use some marine grade sealer around them and you've got an easy on/off solution.

ETA: I had to drill 12 holes in my cover when installing my FrontRunner tracks and it's not as scary as it seems when thinking about it. Just lay it out and mark it good; measure twice and use a centerpunch.

 

Progress is slow due to the damned winter Texas storm that wrecked my life but:



Still have lots of machine work and some powder coating to do.

 

Looking good

 

Looks awesome. I want one. Are you planning on opening the hatch? It looks like the lock mechanism won’t turn 90 degrees?

 

Each panel has it's own rack. Each rack will rest on feet that slide on Front Runner rails. As such, both panels will open as normal and the latches should be easy to manipulate.

 

I definitely want one

 

I'm going to make a video of the build and fabrication. If people have the skill set and time, they can make their own. If I can figure time and shipping, I might put together a few kits for folks... but that's down the road a bit. This is just a prototype and I think I already see a few design changes to the rack sides I want to make.

The end game could be really cool. My whole purpose for this project was to make it easier for me to do three things:

1. Carry a surf board
2. Carry dive gear
3. Carry full sheets of plywood.

The first 2 are easy. The last is tougher, but I have an idea that will allow the rear panel rack to expand backwards to support a full 8' sheet.

 

Thanks for the input and suggestion on nutserts. I don't have experience with nutserts, so I googled them. How does a nutsert make it an easier on/off solution than a bolt and nut? With a traditional bolt/nut I'd need to hold the nut while using a ratchet (presumably) on the bolt on top, otherwise the nut would presumably spin. Sorry for the basic question, I'm not sure I'm understanding the benefit of a nutsert, which looks like it requires specialized tools to install.

Edit: I went down the youtube rabbit hole and learned a lot about nutserts/rivetnuts. Looks like a closed end one is the way to go. It looks like it's possible to use a nut, some washers, and a bolt to crimp the end too (no specialized tool required). I'm thinking something like this

 

A nut and washer with a bolt would work fine! I was just thinking of how you'd said you wanted an easy on/off and that came to mind.

 

As you can see I have the bolt-on, not the van track. But nearly the same when it comes to mounting. I used 5 nuts/bolts/washers/rubber washers. Drill, baby, drill!! No leaks, easily hauls 3 bikes, and low profile. I leave the Loballs on year round.

 

Those of you with the front runner kit- what kind of gas mileage hit have you noticed? Much noise from a rack on the bed?

Debating options to get a little more weathertight cargo space for travels without going the route of a full shell- a cargo box would get me by when needed and store when not and I could either just leave the rack in place or remove the posts/bars entirely.... still in the early planning stages for some travels later this summer

 

Are you installing to mount a tent on? My load bars and the vertical bars stay attached to my tent when I hoist it up off of the truck; so the only thing that stays on the truck full time is the rails themselves which obviously have no effect on MPGs.