Let's see your FJ case swap

I believe that needle bearing is there to help absorb any loads caused by either shifting in/out the ADD, or in the case of the drivers side to absorb any radial loads caused by the heavier differential end of the CV shaft during rotation. With the ADD deleted on the passenger side, the stub shaft that goes from the end of the axle tube to the differential side gear sees much less "loading" as it is always engaged and is supported on both ends.

So I think that perhaps if you used an AWD front diff without a roller bearing, it may wear or cause vibrations sooner on the passenger side? But the fact that ARB uses a bushing would say otherwise. I'm also not sure how many people put ARB front lockers in an AWD vehicle? I'd venture to say the population is small, so the fact that I haven't had any issues may just be dumb luck, plus I don't drive my truck all that much, it's primarily used for wheeling and heading to camp. The more these swaps start happening, the more data we can gather and learn I guess.

 

There should be no loads caused by the ADD doing it’s thing because the way the system works is to shift the xfer case first so the front propeller shaft starts spinning the front diff and makes it catch up to wheel speed which eliminates the difference in speed of the side gear (always driven by the left tire) relative to the diff. Only then does the ADD get a signal to slide over the sleeve to connect the passenger side of the axle to the stub shaft, joint both sides (that’s when the 4WD light stops blinking). If that needle bearing were there to absorb loads, especially radial ones it would be a decidedly poor application. Everyone who had to do the ECGS bushing “fix” can attest to that (assuming they actually understand what’s going on). Toyota put it there in part time 4WD systems only because of the side and spider gears spinning really fast in the stationary diff in 2wd. That’s not a concern with AWD because the diff always spins. AWD also doesn’t have a stub shaft. If you did the ADD delete you don’t have it anymore either.

 

So, again, both the ARB or the Harrop have a machined (not cast) carrier and 4 spider gears so they don’t have nearly the same amount of slop in the driver side side gear which is what puts the excessive radial loads on the needle bearing in lifted trucks which causes the 2wd vibes and premature needle bearing wear/destruction

 

Hey so I’m in the middle of my swap and my old transfer case has a female input as does the new FJ one but the adapter collar on my OE case is about a 1/2 in longer which one should use ?

 

Anyone’s help or insight will help

 

Update I swapped the OE adapter collar to the new case

 

You’re going to want to put the one that came out of your truck on the new one.

 

That’s what I did

 

Thanks for the reply 6gear , my brain told me it was the thing to do , thanks for the confirmation!

 

I’m now looking for 4wd ecu I’m not sure where it is , I now it’s behind the glove box but which one is it ?

 

I have an 06 sr5 single cab .

 

look up. its basically more behind the dash above the glove box

 

Is it a black box with one plug ?

 

remove black cover where glove box latch is and look up. All the way on top inside basically directly under the dashboard

 

This has to be it then , black box 2 plugs

 

Thanks again 6gear . Going to call it a day, t case is in switches are swapped , 1/3 done . Have finish mounting shift boot , then on to the front diff add delete .

 

that’s it

 

Alright everyone. Anyone know where to access the flex plate bolts from? First time pulling a Tacoma trans. Other cars had a clear access panel underneath to get to the flex plate/torque converter bolts.

08 TRD OR 4.0 auto trans.

 

Haven’t done it but my guess is remove the starter ??