Where NOT to use anti-seize compound....?

Yes, ears, hair, face, man land,.....you name it, it's left it's mark.....

 

Anyone remember the ol' Brylcreme commercials???? "Just dab will do ya!"

 

Now we're really dating ourselves......Sadly I do remember....

 

The point........a little is too much.

Be stingy with the anti-seize. Try to clean your finger after each application, then try not to touch anything. It does have a tendency to migrate onto everything. Latex or nitrile gloves make cleaning your fingers a bit easier.

Above all, DON'T touch yourself or your dingus...........

 

I have filled syringes with it for more precise applications with better results but it still manages to find ways onto other things where it has no place being.

Another mystery, why is the brush always too short for the container?

 

Marketing strategy

 

Great explanation. I remember jeep useing New Process Gear transfer cases with magnesium cases. They required special washers to keep the steal bolts from touching the case. They were a caged type washer. You didn't want to leave thoughs out. Rust is much easier to deal with than galvannic corr.

 

That I can deal with. Non-moving mating surfaces. And a small thin coat. It has no viscosity properties for moving or sliding components. I can't emphasize a small thin coating enough. The shit gets everywhere. I refer to it as "never-sleeze".lol

 

I use Red N Tacky on my skid plate bolts, my center hubs where they fit in the wheels and I even put a light smear on my lug studs on occasion. I spray WD-40 into my lug nuts to keep my nuts from swelling.

 

I remember not finding my splash shield on my previous truck that went into the shop for service after a few bolts broke off from rust. One of the first things I did was coat my new Tacomas splash shield bolts with anti-seize. Recently I need to remove the SS after about 10 years living in the rust belt and it made a world of a difference removing those bolts.

I had a garden last year and wanted to use two metal stands that had a wide base the metal pole was secured to using a bolt, it was sitting outside for a few years and I expected the bolts to be seized to the base with rust, thinking it would be a bear to free-up, if not impossible, but lucky the previous owner was smart enough to put a little dab of anti-seize on the treads the last time he stored it, which made my day because it was like butter removing the bolt, and saved me a lot of aggravation fight with it.

 

Red N Tacky is great stuff, so great I bought a case of the grease for my zerks and will be used in place of the Mobil 1 grease in the future.

 

I never use the brush in the can. It's always too loaded. I use an acid brush and toss it when I'm done.

 

Do your nuts tend to swell most when lowered into saltwater? Mine do.

 

I quit buying the cans......too messy....and the brush OMG, talk about a smear-o-matic........

I buy the little squeeze tubes. Much neater. I can just squeeze a small dab onto the threads.

 

Fluid Film or Cosmoline - most fasteners, hub to brake rotor hat, brake rotor hat to wheel
Anti-seize - areas too hot for Fluid Film e.g. spark plug threads, O2 sensor threads
Grease - splines e.g. where CV axle mates with front hub, steering shaft mates with steering wheel
Silicone spray - electrical connector rubber seals, O-rings

Where a torque wrench is used, I reduce the torque to 60-65% of book value.

The only thing I install dry is lugnuts. Corrosion hasn't been an issue with fully enclosed lugnuts.

 

Loctite sells anti-seize on a chapstick applicator. I keep one in my trail toolbox:

$10 Loctite Automotive Copper Anti-Seize Stick - Flexibility for Tough Applications, for Severe Environments - 20 gr, 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029SZIUI/

 

w00t! Never seen that before...

 

What’s rust?

 

Same question asked by Toyota engineers apparently...