Diode Dynamics SS3 harness with OEM style switch install

Hi everybody!

So for BF I got a deal on a pair of diode dynamics ss3 pods and bought the harness at the same time, and then bought an OEM switch from Air On Board.

My issue with the install is my lack of knowledge with wiring, and I wanted to ask you guys just which wire goes to which. On Reddit they have the concept of ELI5 or, “Explain Like I'm 5” and that’s what I’m asking y’all to do! haha

And here’s what I’m working with:


Switch wiring


Harness with included switch



So I get black to black, and blue to the drivers side fuse, but the other two with the double and single red wires on the harness? And do I need to cut and splice into the harness wires or just do the switch wires?

I know tons of people have done this, and found videos using Cali Raised switches (although none of them actually showed the wiring up close for someone who’s never wired up lights before).

Thanks again for your help!

 

Ok. So I'm not wiring expert, in fact I don't know much but I'll tell you my experience. I've installed 2 switches, 1 ch4x4 and 1 caliraised. They were similar but not exactly the same. Both switches black went to ground and green to positive (battery wire). Both switches had 2 red wires with different color stripe. I had to play with them to figure which was for what. 1 wire went to positive (which will light up when the light is on) and the other wire iI tapped to tail light fuse so it would illuminate with the dash lights on. Originally my switch was illuminated all the time, so I swapped my 2 red wires and that corrected the issue. So I would connect your ground then find which wire connects to the positive for powering the lights on. Then you can could connect one of the left over wires from the new switch to the 3rd wire in the harness that goes to the factory switch to see when it illuminates. If it illuminates only when the lights are powered on then your where you want to be. If its on all the time, try the other wire from the new switch and see if that corrects the issue. The left over wire is what you would tap to a fuse to illuminate with the lights on. There shoukd be 2 separate lights inside the new switch. I'm sure this is as clear as mud but it may help. Any questions let me know and I'll try to help.

Edit. I've since bought a harness from someone on TW that plugs into the cargo light switch that allows you to wire into 2 additional wires that illuminate switches so you don't tap into the fuse box. Installed the other day and have all my additional switches attached in one place. I'll try and get that info if you're interested.

 

So on the switch end, the double red wire from the harness for “the lights” would go to the red on the switch? And the “fuse source” single red harness wire to the green switch wire? Am I interpreting that correctly? Or it’s the complete opposite lol

 

NO...
YOU need to add a relay for the Air On Board switch.

 

Switch gets fused power from an Add-a-Fuse, (low amps 2 ~5A fuse add) in the cab fuse box.
Switch sends this "signal" power to the added relay, Pin #86.
Harness fused power (single red) goes to added relay pin #30.
Dual red goes to added relay pin #87.
Black (Ground) of harness to pin #85 of added relay.

In the cab, the switch will tie in parallel to the dash illumination (green wire on vehicle) and black of switch can be to chassis ground or dash illumination (-) [beige].

 

Why aren’t you using the stalk switch on your truck? If your truck already has fog lights (I see you have a 2020 SPORT) you just plug the lights in and go amongst your business... Do you really want to add the new switch?

 

I’m not using them as fog lights, and yes I want to add the new switch. That is the reason for the post.

 

As stated I’m new to wiring. I purchased add a fuse to tap into the cab fuse box yes, but I thought the relay was included in the harness as purchased. I will look into that. But thank you for the info!

 

Ohhhh they’re pods. My bad I thought you were using SS3 fogs.

This is the pin out for your push switch:


It looks like, on your switch, they substituted a blue wire for “Red 2.” You will take your single red wire on the switch and run it to the “input” side of your relay. This can be relatively small gauge wire. The Green needs to be hooked up to a 12V source. Most people elect to use a fuse tap on an IGN 12V (+) in the drivers fuse panel. Black and Blue (Red 2 in the diagram) go to the dash illumination circuit. Let us know exactly where you’d like to mount the switch and we can point you to the best spot to tap these.

When you grab your relay follow Caribe’s pin map.

 

So instead of waiting for a relay to ship I went into 4wheelparts. Thought also I could talk to a guy who knew what they were doing a bit in order to set me up correctly. Walked out with this new harness which has the relay in line.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-c...ss-with-switch-and-relay-76400/_/R-DFCW-76400

Instructed to cut off the toggle switch and wire from there. Now I’ve got white, blue, and ground(black) in the harness. Please tell me he wasn’t an idiot and I’m good to go with this one haha

 

Yes you should be good with that. My wiring harness for my lights has white black and blue as well.

 

Jumping on the thread here. I just installed ss3 ditch lights using the same wire harness pictured above. I put my switch left of the steering wheel in the tall slot. Where is the best place to tap into for the dash illumination? Go to the fuse panel or tap into a wire? Just want it to be clean as I am picky about cutting into the factory harness but also don't want 42 wires running everywhere. Thanks in advance.

 

PM @kmorgan3 for this:

 

This is the same setup I'd be doing, but want to make sure I'm clear on one thing.
With this setup as pictured, the light would always have power? (red/white connection?)
If I want the light to be ignition only, I would connect that wire off the switch to an add a fuse in the fuse box instead of connecting to the light wiring harness?

 

Correct and use only one wire from the harness.

 

Perfect, appreciate you confirming that for me!

 

Verify which wire (color) on your harness that runs to the switch has power, that would need to insulated and not used.

 

Will do!