Tacoma running rough no CEL

Good idea


The thought occurred to me this morning that there may be a correct way and other ways to check compression.
So what is the correct way?
All I did was screw the correct hose into the spark plug hole, attach the gauge to the other end, make sure it was not where it could get tangled in anything and cranked on truck until gauge stopped moving (I could just barely see it looking under back edge of hood) and that was the number I went by.

The other thing is, I can't imagine that carbon build up leading to pre-ignition would clear up after it started?
But nothing would surprise me at this point

 

The original thread title suggested he didn’t have one...

 

No CEL most of the time, did get one when I had to get back to house one day and also the morning I went to mechanic and left it running when I went in. Otherwise it is obviously having issues but no CEL.

There was some "pending code" that mechanic picked up with his diagnostic but I have not and it was "random misfire" but I have not seen that at Oreilly's or on the Fixd reader

 

Remove ignition coils to prevent sparking. Do compression check with engine still warm. Hold throttle fully open while cranking.

It seems like whenever someone posts compression results the actual values vary from person to person based on how accurate their gauge is or how long they crank for. It's probably a good idea to get a baseline compression check with a particular gauge once when the engine is new to you, then use those numbers to compare to in the future.


FYI, The 1996 repair manual lists 2 detecting conditions for the individual cylinder misfire codes:

• For any particular 200 revolutions of the engine, misfiring is detected which can cause catalyst overheating (This causes MIL to blink)
• For any particular 1,000 revolutions of the engine, misfiring is detected which causes a deterioration in emission (2 trip detection logic)

 

Engine was cold but I did hold throttle open. Engine ground unhooked so it would not try to start

The last part might as well be Greek because I don't know what it means other than one is less often than the other

 

If you had unhooked the engine ground the starter wouldn't work. You still had the engine grounded somewhere. It would be easier to just pull whichever fuse goes to the coils.

 

Managed to escape work around 3:30 and got home, cranked truck, changed, let the dogs out and by that time it was warm.

Pulled #2 plug and started from scratch, when I got to #4 the coil wire was stuck so I wiggled it and it seemed to be coming out. But it was just the wire, pulling out of the boot thing so I cussed a little but was not too worried since I am changing wire out anyway. Then I got some needle nose and pulled the boot out. Dropped socket down hole and went to attach extension. Could not get extension to engage so I cussed again, then I started trying to get the socket out of the plug tube and it was not long I was cussing more. Then I realized the end of the wire was still on the plug, sticking up through where the extension engages so I cussed some more. Then I started trying to figure out how I was going to get the socket out of the tube. I tried some long needle nose but they were not quite long enough, tried a wood screw into the top of the gizmo stuck on the plug but couldn't get a bite good enough, went and found another set of needle nose and somehow managed to get ahold of the gizmo and pulled it and the socket out.
DO NOT DROP SOCKET DOWN THAT TUBE UNLESS YOU HAVE SOME KIND OF PLAN TO GET IT OUT

Went on through all cylinders and got positive results I think
Order as tested (Harbor freight compression test kit, not Snapon or other high end tool so pressures may not be super accurate)
#2 -- 185psi
#4 -- 180psi
#6 -- 195psi
#5 -- 185psi
#3 -- 190psi
#1 -- 190psi

I don't think I have a blown head gasket or carbon build up, thank goodness for that

Plan is to start around 10am pulling intake off to get to injectors and hope to get it all back together before dark or finish up Sunday
I saw a video where guy bulled both fuel rails simultaneously and was able to change all injectors without breaking seals at banjo bolts on fuel rails and that is my plan unless one of you advises against it

Changing plugs and wires while I have the intake off, could have already done it but y'all make me nervous talking about head gaskets and carbon build up and what not
I hope it is an injector issue
Checking resistance on them as soon as I get intake off, definitely numbering with sharpie for further investigation if they all pass the resistance test.

 

Bbbbut if you change the wires AND the injectors simultaneously and your problems are solved, we will never truly know what was wrong with it

 

Always have a plan to pull it back out. The answer is duct tape. Tape the spark plug socket to the extension, then stick it in the hole.

 

Already changed wire to #2 cylinder which is where P0302 code was and still remains?

I mean I can change wires to other 2 plugs but I don't see the point if the affected cylinder has been changed and still missing on that cylinder. P0300 I can see where you would need to change one at a time to isolate the issue

I can change the other wires in the morning I guess and check it before I go pick up some parts I will be needing but was not planning on it
At this point the wire that was going to #4 has to be replaced, it is broken/end pulled off

Let me know before 8am though

 

Andy it was just the socket as it was a tight fit and I thought I was being smart putting extension into socket after it was down hole

 

If I understand correctly, my advice for anyone reading is to wrap duct tape around where the socket and extension connect, before use. That way, you can pull on the extension and the socket will come out with it, rather than becoming detached and getting stuck in the head. Common problem, easy solution.

 

That works good but I dropped the socket only down the hole, then tried to stab it with extension

Dumb move on my part for sure

Just found out the only place to get those metal crush washer things for the fuel line to fuel rail connection is the dealership
Good thing the closet dealership's parts department is open tomorrow
Need to go grab some just in case the video I watched was not realistic and I need to take connections loose

 

Don’t worry about it, I was teasing. I’m a “do it all at once” guy too

 

Injector resistance:
1 14.4
2 28.2
3 14.6
4 14.4
5 14.4
6 14.2

Anybody see a problem with those numbers?

Local dealer (30 min away) only had 2 of the crush washers/gaskets for the fuel line to rail connection.
Any substitutes anyone is aware of in case I get in a bind and need some?

Just had some lunch, about to get back on it

Air compressor burnt up or something too (it started making funny noise and smoking)
It was old though so no great loss, little 2gal one

 

Looks like you found the problem, #2 is clearly out of spec.
I have reused those aluminum crush washers on my own vehicles and never had a problem but I believe NAPA has them.

 

You might as well check the resistance of the new injectors before installing them.

 

Well I guess I should have but too late now

It cranked and ran but I did not run it long.

Lost a 10mm ratcheting wrench down between the radiator and AC coil

Just as well because when I shined light down in there it is full of dirt and crap. Clean that out and get my wrench back tomorrow


Just want to say thanks again to all who offered advice/suggestions and helpful comments, much appreciated

 

Should be running like a top after all of this. Well done.

 

Let me ask you a dumb question. I’m fairly certain my wires are causing my problem, I reused them when I changed the head. I was putting gas in it and twisted them around a little and it got much worse... lol, no cel though for a miss. All the parts stores around here have to order them. Would you drop the 105.00 for an OEM set from the dealer? I’m wondering if this is a “buy once, cry once” situation considering most of the crap you get from the box stores is Chinese junk anyway. Napa included. Dealer has them in stock. Thanks