Mid Travel BS 2.0

You strapped and bumped properly? Mine were closer to witness-marks when I found out they were being over extended.

 

Yes working on dialing it in. May have something to do with the way I push the trucks limits...

 

the C-clip metal is very strong and will bite into that "17-4 stainless steel " if you let it. I think keeping the clip to around the 3 o'clock position keeps it from being in the flex/crush zone.

 

Definitely not strapped or bumped correctly if you are bending the bolt. Only way that is happening is by maxing out the misalignment spacers and allowing them to become the bump/ limit of travel.

If the misalignments are what is limiting your travel, make sure you have at least 1/8” clearance between the misalignment and the uca when setting things new. Bump stops usually don’t “squish” more over time, but limit straps will stretch in the first few months so monitor things on that end.

 

1/8 is alot. I like to set my straps so there's barely any light passing between the misalignment and uniball cup. Just enough to not leave witness marks.

 

If you haven’t you should be fine. I’m running 3.5 with bypasses if they are 2 tube and you need them oriented a specific way I learned the hard way but it’s close on 315’s. If you haven’t let me know I’ll show you my setup

 

I ran mine without the bypasses for awhile after I had to pull them (bypasses) seemed fine.

 

This is my front setup. King race LCA ( expo version came out the week after I installed naturally)



this is the position not to install



if you want to clear in spacers or 3.5 BS you need to invert the compression tube inwards



If your running 35/315 and yah have it facing outward it likely will rub. I had rubbing on both resi and bypass tube. Eventually it spun one of the adjusters off. Luckily I was at the park with my kid. At first I thought it was brakes as I had just put new calipers on.



I still need to get some limit straps but have also been debating swapping to a +2 kit

 

Maybe once they’re all stretched in, but initially with new ones I’d error on the side of caution. That’s how I ended up bending uca bolts in the past.

 

Good to know. When i get everything together, ill try to remember to tag you for help if I need it. Did you need to move the top mount of the shock?

 

I don’t recall. Had someone help welding wise. it’s setup so you can move them. yah let me know. Curious to see how you valve them.

 

It may be a while. If i buy new, there's a 6 month build time from King. I do have a lead on a slightly used set, but need to check if they're still available when I have funds available. I haven't been ordering much, because I am waiting to pay for my GFC.

After that's done, ill be in the market more, but still low funds haha

 

Nice yah, I lucked out on this set. I’m waiting on a wedge setup as well so I know how that is.

 

Yes, that's a going point. I forget how much extra I put into mine for stretch, but it was based on the mfg recommendation for how much they are allowed to stretch.

Then after several weeks of hard use I adjusted them using the coilover to pull the strap tight and check the clearance.

 

I ordered a new UCA bolt and will be reviewing my bump set up. This damage occurred when we/I met a large boulder hiding behind a bush while I was way off course in a riverbed at dusk. As this "witness" mark is on the misalignment spacer at the bottom inside of the UCA pivot. I dont have any issues on the top so I think my straps are doing the job but I will double check those as well. See post #213 in my thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dropping-in-mid-travel-madness.286755/page-11

 

Always inspect after a good thrashing

 

Selling my Solo Motorsports +2 kit complete as is with axles and gusseted spindles for $3500 OBO

Pricing feels fair like buying a kit and getting built axles, a spare axle shaft and gusseted spindles for free...

Kit Includes :

• +2 uppers and lowers powder coated silver vein
• OE lower ball joint adapters powder coated silver vein with 10mm spacer and 10mm longer spindle bolts
• TC gusseted spindles powder coated silver vein
• TC +2 axles powder coated silver vein with new cv boots
• 1 extra +2 spare axle so you canbuild up a trail spare
• Crown Performance extendedbrake lines to run replaceeverything from the the frame tothe caliper ( you will need yourown bajo bolts )
• +2 Tie Rod extensions

The Bad :

• Powder coat is a few years oldthere are some chips in it and some dumbass...cough...me...cough may have got a bunch of brake clean on the lowers which you can see in the photo
• The inner bypass tab was cut off to clear my big brake caliper, you could fully remove it and grind it smooth or add it back on easily if you are going to run a bypass. The remaining bypass tab is a perfect place to strap too.
• One of the brake lines has a cut in the clear cosmetic shielding only, does not affect performance.
• LCA bushings need to be replaced, just the usual wear and tear cheap and easy to replace.

What you will need :

• Standard 8" CO, kit was designedaround a King CO.
• Staps and clevis'
• LCA bushings
• Bajo bolts for the calipers

Here is what the kit looks like installed with OE brakes :

 

@whatstcp I cant decide if I want to get those bypasses on ig, or new ones from ORW for $300 more.. I might even see if Accutune can match the price of ORW. Decisions decisions..

 

I may do that too but if you can get them new and get them valved that in itself is worth it. Unless they are off the shelf you can prob get them valved as well. I need to go back and revalve everything again. I need to get better and shock rebuilds this stuff is going to add up big time.

 

I just asked him how many miles. Do you know the guy? I wonder if he is in socal, and can drop them off at Downsouth to get rebuilt

EDIT: he said 2k miles